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74Dusted

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about the only time you seen a rusted out truck (beside chevy they rust in any conditions) is usually when a family moves from the north to the south....then it quickly becomes a search for a truck with a blown engine to do some transplanting....poor ole boy down the street brought down a Ford diesel and it is a rotted mess....from 50 feet it looks almost new...get close and the bottom is gone....

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  • 10 months later...

2019 has been a challenging year, in many ways...underlying all of the other things going on is my current mode of transportation since I sold The Blue Bomber last year.  Dad bought this QuadCab new, took care of it as his daily driver, then about 2007 practically parked it in the barn with 150k highway miles on it and a brand new set of tires, as his work issued him a work truck.  He drove it maybe once a month locally, occasionally pulling a heavy load, but for the most part it just collected dust and spiders.

 

Late winter 2015 he called me about it not shifting into OD when it was chilly in the morning, but my warm afternoon test drive told me it was OK, he got all worked up about pulling the transmission and having it rebuilt but I whoa'd him up on that by explaining the downside of pursuing that course of action without blurting out "it's a durn waste of $$$".  The eventual transmission service and adjustments helped greatly, but the throttle still needs to be feathered around 40mph to kick the thing into OD.

 

In early 2016, I started driving it once a week to exercise the tires so they wouldn't flat-spot so bad, as my annual request of him doing this for years had not been done.  This was when I 1st noticed the random Brake + ABS warning lights illuminating on the instrument panel.  The truck ran fine, stopped on a dime and gave 9 cents change, but there was no clear scenario that would cause these warning lights to come on, as they would shut off on the next drive.  That Labor Day weekend, I capitalized on some online discounts and replaced those 9 yr old tires that were crumbling, basically bought 2 tires and got 2 for free.  When I got the truck alignment checked, the tech pointed out the front suspension wear, so that October I rebuilt the front suspension.  A few days after getting the new rubber, I was zipping down a back road one night when the ABS lights came on again...a few minutes later, a varmint wandered into the roadway, I jammed on the brakes, all 4 tires locked up, flat-spotting them new tires and making me grit my teeth on subsequent highway trips as that truck vibrated for several hunnnert miles before they wore down a little bit.

 

About a year later, I noticed a few symptoms that the FSM pointed to a defective hydroboost unit.  It had developed an internal leak, which eventually dripped onto the cab carpet.

About a year after that, one of the 2 yr old tires became damaged, so I replaced it and one more (that went to the spare) to have new tires on the front wheels for winter.  And within a week, with another random ABS light on, I flat-spotted the tires again doing less than 30 when another driver veered into my lane near a What-A-Burger...GRRRRR!  I had been studying this random ABS light issue for months, and the FSM pointed to failing ABS sensors...all 3 fell apart during removal, so I assumed that was the problem; during the front sensor removal, I noticed that the original hubs were squeaking, so I replaced them at 195k and kinda chalked that expensive repair up to being at the right place at the right time.  But just in time for Christmas, the ABS warning light made its random appearance once again...

 

This year's wet winter and spring have seemingly exacerbated the brake issues as the random ABS lights were increasing in occurrences to the point where they started to stay on for days before turning off for brief periods.  In March, I had to haul a heavy load and noticed a problem with the trailer brakes dragging...further investigation found that the truck brake pedal would take 3 seconds to spring back...the FSM pointed to replacing the power steering pump that fed the hydroboost, but the pump replacement had no effect on the pedal return...GRRRRR!Sitting in Waco traffic in April, the brake pedal started going to the floor, and the rebuilt replacement needed to be re-bled 18 times over the next 4 weeks because of recurring spongy pedal...about the same time, the rebuilt hydroboost also started to leak, so both of those were replaced under warranty.  But the random ABS lights and slow pedal return persisted all summer, causing me to study the FSM and search similar problems on the internets to try to straighten this old buggy out...the last piece of the puzzle was to replace the non-serviceable and no longer available ABS hydraulic control unit with an '03 unit that several sources said would not fit my '01 yet both had the same part numbers stamped into them...this repair seems to have shut off the ABS lights for now, and a rigorous test drive got the "new" ABS pump more active than the original, so maybe this issue has been resolved...

 

Ultimately, I replaced every brake system component on this 18yr old buggy except for the ABS control module, the metal brake hydraulic lines on the frame, the brake pedal, and the brake lights...apparently, the 18 yr old brake fluid was contaminated with moisture over time, causing most of the brake system's rubber components to swell, which caused seal leakage, caliper binding, and HCU proportional valve corrosion.  The brake pedal still does not snap back in less than a second, so maybe the brake lines (which I inspected externally, even dropping the diesel tank for access) have some fouling and may need replacing...further testing is necessary.  With this old Dodge fixed up a little bit, maybe I'll have the time to fix up some of the other old Dodges decorating the yard :rolleyes:

 

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UPDATE:  Brake issues continued for 4 months longer until resolved by replacing defective calipers and hydroboost :rolleyes:

Edited by JBNeal
revised pictures
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  • 3 months later...

Have been posting photos of some of my trucks at https://p15-d24.com/topic/53-lets-see-pic-of-your-trucks/page/40/#comments.  So far they have been in the range of trucks for the Mopar Flathead Truck Forum.  Started with the 1938 Dodge RC as Truck 1, and recently finished with the 1959 Dodge P300 as Truck 33.  Will continue with the D-Series Sweptline Trucks on this Off Topic thread.  Looking through my photos, I realized the first truck here, Truck 34, a 1965 Dodge D200, early version, doesn't have a lot of photos.  Will have to go out tomorrow to get some more photos.  For now, here is the one photo I do have.  The 1965 is on the left in the photo.  The truck on the right in the photo is a 1967 Dodge D500 Pickup.  Stay tuned for further updates.

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Mr. ggdad1951 says I can post photos of the rest of my Dodges at https://p15-d24.com/topic/53-lets-see-pic-of-your-trucks/page/40/#comments.  He recommends this thread for non-Mopar vehicles.  So, I do happen to have one Ford, a 1965 N500, 330-cubic-inch, 4-speed, 2-speed differential, set up as a trailer toter, with both goose-neck and bumper-pull hitches.  Been gradually working on the truck for the past five years trying to get mechanical restoration completed, if possible on a Ford.  Every farmer needs at least one Ford.  When everything else is done on the farm, he can always work on the Ford.

 

The Blue Ribbon from the Delta County Fair Parade was probably for the decorations in August 2016, a few months before the last Presidential Election.  Mostly, bible-beating, gun-toting, rednecks out here in rural western Colorado.  We have a different point of view than the urbanites near big cities.  If we want to wait at a stop light, we have to go to the county seat in Delta Colorado, thirty miles from home.

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My toys.....

I've got my 58 plymouth I'm restoring, a 73 challenger next to be restored. I used to drag race every weekend and still have my Dakota drag truck. Then my dd is a scat pack challenger. 

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Edited by Bbdakota
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My other ride, aside from my vintage cars is this 1998 Ram 2500. 4x4 with 24 valve Cummins turbo diesel. I wanted a truck that would do most anything I wanted. I hate compromising when owning wimpy trucks. I've had my share of 4 door 4x4, 5.5 foot or so box half ton trucks. They aren't really trucks and are pretty well useless to haul anything around. I found this old truck for sale locally with about 162,000 miles on it. Typical rust for a 20 year old truck. It has an 8 foot box and really is a truck in my opinion. It came with a pretty big pile of maintenance records. It was taken care of pretty good, however still needed some good love and care. I started by sending in off to my brother who is a professional auto-body mechanic. Most panels are brand new. All new paint. Canopy pained too. The entire body was undercoated with a 3M anti-corrosion spray. The body should be good for another 20 years. The interior was very clean and well taken care of previously. I tackled several repairs and brought the truck up to my standards. 

 

All fluids and filters changed. New Diff cover gaskets. New diff pinions seals x2. Both new front wheel bearings. New rear axle wheel seals. New higher pressure fuel pump installed. Dropped the fuel tank and installed new fuel level sensor and fuel lines. New front rotors, pads and calipers. New rear drums, shoes, wheel cylinders, brake hardware and rear brake lines. New turbo. I installed a triple gage package on the A-pillar. I installed a fuel pressure gage also. Installed a hitch. It has heavy duty over load springs. New ABS speed sensor on the rear diff. New batteries. New rear shocks. I do all my own work, Typical stuff. New tires. It's been a great truck so far. I have towed my RV about 2,000 miles with it so far. Towed my vintage car to car shows away from home. Good for dump runs. Home renovating supplies are easy. 

We live up in the hills and get a fair bit of ice and snow every winter. The hi-ways can be a mess. The 4x4 option is nice at these times. So once in a while we'll take it on out of town hi-way trips in the winter.  I like the idea a bigger truck with the heavy diesel out front of us on winter roads. 

 

I have a great truck that when compared to a new 3/4T diesel, I have very little money invested in it. A brand new one, I just cannot justify. I'll put an average of 5,000 miles per year on the truck. It is not a daily driver. I am fortunate to have daily use of a ¾ new Ford truck that my job comes with. I cannot use it for personal stuff like towing, camping, picking up large stuff etc. So I am fortunate and this 98 Dodge truck works very well for us. Here are a couple before and after pics.

 

 

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Edited by keithb7
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Here are some photos of another Non-Mopar vehicle I have, a 1969 Volkswagen Beetle.  Use this car as my daily driver during the warm months for many, many years.  Took out the rear seat and put in a floor plate to use as a small pickup for parts running.  Rusted old body, with a leaky 1,500-cubic-centimeter engine.  Whenever anything quits working, of falls off, usually just remove it and throw it out of the car.  About the only item replaced was recovered the driver's seat.  Almost threw out the passenger's seat, but the dog loves to ride in the Bug.  She get to sit up front and hang out the passenger's window.

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Edited by vikingminer49er
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-ypx8_enl-I

 

So, if the 1953 John Deere Model 50 tractor breaks down in the middle of spring-time harrowing the pastures, can always rely on the 1969 Volkswagen Tractor to take up the work.  Like I mentioned, the dog loves to go for a ride in the Bug.

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Several years ago, after seeing one of those "prepper" shows on TV, I looked at wood-burning vehicles.  Wood-burning vehicles were fairly common in Europe during World War II, due to gasoline shortages.  Since I was working at a coal mine, I wanted to run my vehicle on coal.  Instead of placing the burner in the front, or hanging it off the rear, I put mine in the vacant rear seat area of the 1969 Volkswagen Beetle.  Also, purchased a small pelletizer, and made my fuel out of pellets.  Attempts to make coal pellets were not very successful, since coal lacks the sticky lignans contained in wood to make the pellets.  My best results for fuel came from a combination of coal fines, diesel fuel, sawdust, and shredded junk mail.  Shredded Junk Mail is a Renewable Resource!!!

 

Constructed the apparatus shown in the photo in the coal mine shop, with the approval of management, using pieces of steel pipe and fittings.  Best results were obtained when the smoldering coal produced the thick yellow smoke, often seen around the edges of an idle coal stockpile.  Thinner white smoke indicates too much oxygen, and not enough smoldering, in the combustion.  Initial testing of the apparatus, by lighting the escaping smoke with a striker, produced a flame about a foot high out the top of the burner.  We could really make it flame by introducing oxygen from a tank into the inlet of the smoldering fire.  The pieces of the apparatus were assembled inside the car, starting with lowering the center cylinder into the car through the open sunroof with a forklift.  All my photos of the apparatus testing and installation in the car are non-digital. 

 

The center container of the apparatus is the burner with a grating plate welded about a third of the way up the inner 8-inch-diameter cylinder.  The burner cylinder is surrounded by cast refractory material and a 12-inch diameter cylinder.  A smoldering fire is started in the burner with the inlet air controlled by the lower valve.  The off-gas from the smoldering fire consists of Carbon Monoxide, Hydrogen, and Methane, all of which will burn, with little, to no, Oxygen.  The off-gas is vented to the precipitator cylinder to the right.  The precipitator drops soot, coal tar, and other solids into the water-filled precipitator.  The precipitator is drained every so often to remove the accumulated debris.  The thickened liquid comes out looking like black elephant snot.

 

From the precipitator, the "cleaned" gas goes across the series of pipes in the rear, which acts as a radiator/heat exchanger.  The cooled gas enters the rear of the condenser cylinder on the left, where the condensed water is accumulated. The condenser is drained every so often to remove any accumulated debris.  The thickened liquid comes out looking like black elephant urine.  The "cleaned, cooled, and dry" gas is piped loosely to the intake of the air cleaner on the engine.  The loose connection on the inlet to the air cleaner allows the introduction of combustion air, and the gas air mixture is passed through the air cleaner into the throat of the carburetor.  The engine is started with the in-place gasoline system, and causes a vacuum through the apparatus, increasing flow and fire intensity.

 

Obvious barrier to practicality is the time required to fuel, fire, raise temperature, start, and run the engine.  Not good for short runs around town or commutes to work.  Main benefit is the waste heat in the winter, since a 1969 Volkswagen Beetle never had good heat from the exhaust shrouds and the piping through the running boards to the front.  Anyone who grew up in the northern states knows the only way to keep the windshield defrosted in the winter was to roll down the side windows.  When the temperature inside the car is as cold as the outside temperature, and water vapor from breathing is vented out the lowered side window, the windshield will remain defrosted, at least to minus-20-degrees Fahrenheit.  Recommend the open sunroof for summertime driving with the heated burner.

 

The added weight and inconvenience of the apparatus was not practical.  Removed the apparatus, and sold it to a hippy-type in the mountains west of Boulder Colorado, who was planning on living off the grid.  Never heard from him again, so don't know how successful he was.

 

Like the photo of the wood-burner, Dodge pickup with the large round bale next to the 55-gallon-barrel combustion chamber.

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Edited by vikingminer49er
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Ok, besides the P12, here's the "new" stuff - I've purchased a grand total of eight vehicles for myself since my first car, a '67 Coronet, in'73.  I still own six of them:  the '57 New Yorker I bought in '78, the '66 Satellite in '81, the '64 'cuda in '86, the '97 Dakota was the first vehicle I purchased new, and the '09 Challenger R/T, my daily driver, is my second new car (so far).  Needless to say, I wish I still had the '67 Coronet, as well as my '68 Dart (aka the best $250 I ever spent!).

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This is my humble collection. I have an appointment with the suburban on Wednesday for title, license et al. The can drive and tweak.

 

 

 

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Edited by pflaming
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A man can't always drive cars and trucks.  Sometimes he needs a little cross-country adventure.  Here's some photos of a 1973 Yamaha RT360 Enduro motorcycle.  Bought it many years ago from a farmer near Delta Colorado, who used it to ride his ditch lines, and irrigate his fields.  He always parked it in the same place for so long, the paint was faded on the south side.  I liked the bike because it was low enough to get my old leg over the seat to get on.  Rode it occasionally, but finally sold it to a motorcycle collector in Florida.  Of course, I sold it not long after putting on new tires.  The old tires had plenty of tread, but also plenty of cracks in the sidewalls.  The guy in Florida got a smoking hot deal on the classic 2-cycle, motorcycle.  Hated to see it leave.

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