Making windows roll easier and fuzzy trim vs. chrome trim

[Grdpa's 50 Dodge]

Sort of a two part question  to get me ready to place my Andy Bernbaum order soon.

 

First off my car has been stored in a hot garage for 30 plus years.  I try to roll windows down for first time and its like they are siliconed shut.  Working the handle back and forth a 100 times to avoid breaking the crank handle gets them barely rolled down.  What to lube to get rolling easier?

 

Ordering window channel and sill fuzzy seals and trim for all windows since mine are not good and dont want a leaker.  I see I have an option of chrome window sweeper and channel or non chrome.  Mine are non chrome right now,,,but why cant I put chrome covered for window seals.  Thinking is chrome cover would keep the sun off direct contact with sealing part.  Would it look dumb or cheap?  It says I order both in 8 foot lengths,,,any clue how many it may take of each?  I looked in all my reference books but it is not addressed as such. 2 door sedan coupe if it matters.

 

My vent window rubber looks good, thinking of leaving as is for now and changing later if needed.  Mistake??? Looks like 130 bucks just for vent rubber. But still need "L" shaped fuzzies for large window side of divider

 

Thoughts??Ideas??

[Dan Hiebert]

I replaced the fuzzies and window channels on our D24 about 12 years ago.  I, also, got them from Andy Bernbaum.  I used the ones with the stainless steel trim bead, even though the originals don't have it, no good reason other than "shiny is good".  I don't think there is a benefit one way or another, as the ones without still have a metal bead, they just don't have the shiny cover on them.

 

Bernbaum will know how much to order for your particular car.  Their catalog used to have the recommendation, too, but I haven't checked if for quite some time.

 

A good dose of silicone spray will loosen the windows in the channels.  You'll want to lubricate the regulators, too.  The grease in those is probably pretty hard by now.

 

The vent window rubber replacement would be up to you.  They can be easily changed at different times than the fuzzies and channels (with some cars its easier to replace everything at the same time), I replaced ours several years after doing the channels and sweepers.  

 

Tell ya what, tho, its nice when the windows don't rattle, and Mother Nature stays outside the car once you get that stuff replaced.

[Young Ed]

For the internal mechanisms I sprayed mine with lithium grease. Seems to have them working great even with all the old fuzzy stuff in place.

[OldDad67]

I replaced the fuzzies and window channels on our D24 about 12 years ago.  I, also, got them from Andy Bernbaum.  I used the ones with the stainless steel trim bead, even though the originals don't have it, no good reason other than "shiny is good".  I don't think there is a benefit one way or another, as the ones without still have a metal bead, they just don't have the shiny cover on them.

 

Bernbaum will know how much to order for your particular car.  Their catalog used to have the recommendation, too, but I haven't checked if for quite some time.

 

A good dose of silicone spray will loosen the windows in the channels.  You'll want to lubricate the regulators, too.  The grease in those is probably pretty hard by now.

 

The vent window rubber replacement would be up to you.  They can be easily changed at different times than the fuzzies and channels (with some cars its easier to replace everything at the same time), I replaced ours several years after doing the channels and sweepers.  

 

Tell ya what, tho, its nice when the windows don't rattle, and Mother Nature stays outside the car once you get that stuff replaced.

The only caution with the Silicone spray is if you plan on doing some painting be careful where you spray the Silicone cause it doesn't like paint. And will cause you plenty of grief if you try and paint over it.

 

[Grdpa's 50 Dodge]

UPDATE!!-- I white lithed the places of pivot I could see in the door cavity on the bottom of the window, and dry lubed the channels on both sides I could get to.  Back most of it, front not so much.  Going to put new fuzzy on anyway with the new glass so not concerned there.

 

My question today is- the window crank probably has a small gear box behind the immediate crank stem.  Do I need to take that out /get inside/ disassemble that to get new grease inside where gears are?

 

And a closer look at the vent window rubber and its harder than a rock.  Is new rubber that hard also or is that age factor only???

 

Todays job I think will be a dry but wet car wash of sorts to wash the 30 years of garage dust off.  Its inside a cold garage so thought a big rag and a bucket to wipe off the black into the warm water changing water a few times.  least I will be able to see the car then.  Cant make a big mess inside the garage

 

Thanks a bunch for all the previous responses,I think It helped a ton to make what feels the right progress forward.

[DCurrent]

I haven't actually seen the old window crank gears of these old cars yet, but I'd bet they aren't any different than cars 10 years newer or so. If that's the case, I doubt you will be able to take the case that holds the gearing together. Without taking the whole assembly out of the car you should be able to spray lithium grease just inside enough where the gearing meets the outside gearing. After spraying the gear rotate the crank while spraying the lithium at the same time. That will make sure the whole inside makes contact with the grease. You will be amazed at how different your window cranks will work.