drum puller alternative??????????

[Plymouthy Adams]

While cruising a parts catalog for my Volvo 544 what has the Spicer rear axle and also has the exact 5 x 4.5 bolt circle..this is in their catalog for pulling the drums....

 

for what it is worth...idea only to the gifted man (read machines shop and welder access)

 

http://www.classicvolvorestoration.com/classicvolvoparts.php?homeinclude=catalog&category_id=41571&parent_id=41571&product_id=95649&countdisplay=1&start=0&addcountview=Yes

[seabee1950]

Not a 100% but about three hours and I could make one of those.

[Plymouthy Adams]

alright CB....your mission, should you choose to accept it..is build one of these and photo document the steps...field test to include all swear words used and frequency of their use...only thing I would add to this would be welded gussets from the threaded upright to the plate just in front of the lug holes...can never have these bad boys built too tough

[desoto1939]

Since the early Chrysler and Desoto used the lug bolts there isa peg on the drums to hold the rim on the drum so you can center the rim and then start to thread one of the bolts.  You would need to drill a hole so tha the pin could come throught the flange.  The Ply/Dodge used the lug nut style so the extra hole is not needed.

 

A good machine shop can dril out the hole in the correct spot on the flange.

 

Rich HArtung

Desoto1939@aol.com

[Ulu]

I made one similar to this. I don't use the lug bolts. I use bolts about 6" long to keep the plate off the hub. I just welded a big nut to the round plate & drilled five holes. I put up a pic if I can find it in my messy garage. I've moved 5 times since I last used it.

[P15-D24]

Years ago when I still lived in Indy I got a hole in the rear of my diff case from a gear fragment off the ring gear. I went to a local shop to swap in a new third member from the junk yard. The mechanic pulled the drum with a length of chain and a hammer. Anyone have any idea how he did it? (the exact steps have long faded away)  He was good, took him less than an hour to do the full swap including welding the hole in the back of the diff case. 

[Dodgeb4ya]

Sure that wasn't a way to pull the axle shaft?

I have read about and done that when I was a kid with out all the tools.

[Ulu]

That is a ghetto method, but it works.

 

I pulled a Cad axle (flanged) with a hammer & chain. Same principal as a slide hammer. I put the chain thru the access hole in the flange & used a screwdriver as a cross pin in the last link. I wrapped the other end around the hammer handle close to the head with a bolt & nut to make the loop. Swing the hammer & when the chain goes tight the axle will pop out. 

 

To pull a drum, bolt the chain to two opposite lugs, wrap the middle about the hammer handle at the head & wack it away.

 

The force will be somewhat eccentric with 5 lug pattern hubs, that is, not centered on the axle, but the axle has a taper and you don't have to pull straight to get the drum off because of that. You can pull at the angle of the taper or thereabout.

 

This is all very hard on the hammer. One with a steel handle would be best, but you're not actually hitting anything with it, it doesn't have to be an actual hammer either. a steel dumbbell or other similar weight could work. A heavy pipe...anything with solid mass that you can swing...but steel or iron because, if wood, the chain damages it.

 

Also, this is not recommended for really stuck rusty hubs either, as you can easily strip threads or worse, if you do it wrong.

[deathbound]

That puller looks like it was made by a kid in China.....probably took him an hour +/-.....

[Plymouthy Adams]

deathbound, on 17 Dec 2014 - 9:36 PM, said:

That puller looks like it was made by a kid in China.....probably took him an hour +/-.....

if that is in reference to the Volvo model I posted at the top of the thread..let me tell you this...the Volvo has been the only axle that has come anywhere close to whopping my butt to remove..I got it with due diligence and the use of my three legged puller and big big hammer and cheater bar..I would be curious to see if the one pictured would do better...keep in mind on thing,,,all five lug nuts/bolts come into play here and a better change of uniform pressure about the taper/hub...something to think about...

[countrytravler]

[Grate Engineer]

Hi Folks:
 
Just having removed my own drums from a '50 B2B for the first time...I wanted to add my experience to help any others trying this. I built a device out of 3/8" plate that allowed the use of a typical 6", 3-armed puller. I must admit that I thought the puller would explode before the hub released. I did this because I was unable to find a puller that would work anywhere else and I have access to a machine lathe and steel.
 
Liberal use of Plus-gas disassembly juice...a wee bit of heat and a small(ish) hammer (MFH). I've enclosed a picture of the device in place (I re-installed the castle-nut before commencing the pull).
 
My sequence was this:

• DAYS before you start this, get the Juice into the joint between the hub and the axle...this will help.
• pre-assemble the ring onto the hub and push the ring against the drum face to allow the torch access to the circumference of the hub-collar
• Once the hub is hot, pre-load the puller...likely up to 150 ft-lbs of torque, then,
• Sharply strike the end of the puller screw with a decent ball-peen hammer. (Not trying to drive the whole rear end sideways, just a good, sharp, wack)

With any luck, the assembly will release with a ginormous "Bang" as all pre-load is released.
 
If this doesn't work...add more penetrating oil and move onto something else for the rest of the day. Come back tomorrow and try the whole thing again.
 
While some say that heat isn't required...I'm not sure there is any other way. Just don't try to melt it off...you're simply trying to get the hub to expand away from the tapered axle shaft...no need to "Cherry" it up. Also, working quickly after the heat is applied will hopefully allow you to pull before the heat migrates to the axle at which point, it will expand too and constrict the exact joint you're trying to disassemble.
 
For the Passenger side hubs, I bought 1/2"-20 UNF 2.5" bolts to allow space behind the plate for the puller legs to grab/grip. For the drivers side, I had to order a length of 1/2"-20 UNF LEFT HAND THREADED ROD ($36 for 36") and accompanying nuts to build a set of bolts to allow the plate to come away from the drum face.
 
I do believe I'm going to divorce the hub from the drum (remove the rivets) and bore the hub lug-holes to accept wheel studs (Rt. hand thread all around) so I can use Ford Ranger rims or anything 5 x 4.5" bolt pattern. Jury's still out on this decision...hope to hear from someone with actual experience in this matter. Don't see any reason why I cannot change the original configuration to that which is employed in almost 100% of the new vehicles using rear drums.
 
Thoughts welcome,
 
Cheers.

 

[Plymouthy Adams]

_{striking the end of the axle via the puller center bolt is strongly advised AGAINST by a specific warning in the repair manual...third member damage could result...I would not rely on this as a safe method....user be advised of the possible ill side effects with this approach..I hope you faired well and no resulting damage done.}

[belvedere666]

I do believe I'm going to divorce the hub from the drum (remove the rivets) and bore the hub lug-holes to accept wheel studs (Rt. hand thread all around) so I can use Ford Ranger rims or anything 5 x 4.5" bolt pattern. Jury's still out on this decision...hope to hear from someone with actual experience in this matter. Don't see any reason why I cannot change the original configuration to that which is employed in almost 100% of the new vehicles using rear drums.
 

 

Drum Puller pic1.jpg

 

This looks like a good alternative to the higher priced puller, or "correct" puller. i happened across a deal on the correct puller after trying countless other methods and now that i have it, i would pay full price for one without hesitation if, knock on wood, anything happened to this one. Keep us posted on that lug stud conversion. i've seen a few threads in here referencing it, but i have yet to see a full, accurate parts list and tutorial. i, too, would like to do this. i don't have any intention to do a disc brake conversion.

-phillip

[Dodgeb4ya]

I dont think that plate and puller will remove the drum.

Too much give the the puller arms and course thead screw.

Ya never know though! Good luck!

[deathbound]

I dont think that plate and puller will remove the drum.

Too much give the the puller arms and course thead screw.

Ya never know though! Good luck!

 

I think he already used his "puller".....this is the opening of his post:

 

Hi Folks:

 

Just having removed my own drums from a '50 B2B for the first time...I wanted to add my experience to help any others trying this.

[Tony724]

Wow, I guess I am truly new to the 50's era cars. I had no idea I needed a special tool to remove my rear drums, which I will have to do soon. Ugh!!

[deathbound]

Wow, I guess I am truly new to the 50's era cars. I had no idea I needed a special tool to remove my rear drums, which I will have to do soon. Ugh!!

 

Before you do, read the tech article found here:http://p15-d24.com/page/p15d24/tech/brakes.html

There is a picture of the "correct" tool to pull the drum/hub from the axle.

[Tony724]

Before you do, read the tech article found here:http://p15-d24.com/page/p15d24/tech/brakes.html

There is a picture of the "correct" tool to pull the drum/hub from the axle.

 

I will take time tonight and read through it. My buddy is buying a 52 Hudson, and says it comes with a lot of tools, and a drum puller. Hopefully the same kind!

I have done many drum brakes over the years, but this is new to me with this style.

 

Does the drum have to be pressed on with force? Since it has to be pulled with a puller.

I know, dumb question!

 

I will be doing my master and probably wheel cylinders, and maybe shoes if it needs them. There is no pedal right now.

Edited April 2, 2015 by Tony724

[TodFitch]

Does the drum have to be pressed on with force? Since it has to be pulled with a puller.

I know, dumb question!

Rear axle hub nut gets torqued to 142 ft-lbs (minmum). That is what "presses" the drum on the axle.

[Tony724]

Rear axle hub nut gets torqued to 142 ft-lbs (minmum). That is what "presses" the drum on the axle.

 

Thank you very much! At least I have that knowledge for weeks down the road when doing this, instead of wondering. Thank you!

[deathbound]

 

I do believe I'm going to divorce the hub from the drum (remove the rivets) and bore the hub lug-holes to accept wheel studs (Rt. hand thread all around) so I can use Ford Ranger rims or anything 5 x 4.5" bolt pattern. Jury's still out on this decision...hope to hear from someone with actual experience in this matter. Don't see any reason why I cannot change the original configuration to that which is employed in almost 100% of the new vehicles using rear drums.

 

 

Drum Puller pic1.jpg

 

This looks like a good alternative to the higher priced puller, or "correct" puller. i happened across a deal on the correct puller after trying countless other methods and now that i have it, i would pay full price for one without hesitation if, knock on wood, anything happened to this one. Keep us posted on that lug stud conversion. i've seen a few threads in here referencing it, but i have yet to see a full, accurate parts list and tutorial. i, too, would like to do this. i don't have any intention to do a disc brake conversion.

-phillip

 

 

Check out this link from the HAMB.....post# 124 shows the wheel stud conversion/pics, but don't recall if he has a parts list in this thread. Had it saved in my watched threads, but didn't read through the thread, prior to posting this link. (I lived in Fullerton from '99-'03).

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/my-40-plymouth-coupe.648944/page-5#post-7453807

[belvedere666]

Check out this link from the HAMB.....post# 124 shows the wheel stud conversion/pics, but don't recall if he has a parts list in this thread. Had it saved in my watched threads, but didn't read through the thread, prior to posting this link. (I lived in Fullerton from '99-'03).

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/my-40-plymouth-coupe.648944/page-5#post-7453807

Thanks deathbound. i checked out those pics. he makes it look too easy. looks like he was already set up, or in the process of a disk brake conversion. i was trying to keep the drums. i had seen that conversion on a '64 and i think i can adapt it to my 1950, but i'm not sure how it would work on the FRONT wheels. the drums and bearings are a little different.