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Re-Engineering a Flathead Six


James_Douglas

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Take a look at these two videos. Interesting may try to get in touch with him through message on Youtube to see if he can give you any insight as to what he has found with his application.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T7mjSF-h3Vc

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4FAwkB_EytA

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in all due respect, as one who has owned and driven turbo cars..at no time in either of the video's was the engine brought to any speed to demonstrate the turbo coming online or in any manner expressing positive manifold pressure...and the very low speed in which the car was moved from the cul-de sac and back...that chassis demonstrated the very ride of a road wagon...sure maybe a great look, ohs and ahs at the local cruise...but I would need to see a better evidence of an actual working system...bolting on a part and making said part perform are example of two different principles here...one being SHOW  and the other being GO....I do hope that the car is able to do both....the detail in the construction (less the one rigid mount of which I did not see what was connected on the engine side) speaks volumes in details...guess I am just saying I am disappointed in not seeing the actual running and effect of the turbo...

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 I am disappointed in not seeing the actual running and effect of the turbo...

Me to. I was hoping to see a wheel standing hammer down clip and not just a short bounce down to the end of the road and back much like watching a drag strip return lane slow speed pass. Not much fun in that.

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Might be academic but so what. Having known James for a few years I know he likes to look at the coin from all angles before he flips it. When the coin lands it will be in his favor. He is perhaps a bit anal but he is a classic example of "failure is not an option".

Kind of funny Don. I can envision you writing that same thing I did if it wasn't someone you knew. I meant nothing by it other than to try and help the original poster solve not being able to pull his camper. I'm a "it's your car do with it as you wish" type of person. I was simply posting my opinion.

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Is this an academic exercise or because you absolutely want to keep the original block? It would seem cheaper to convert to a modern engine in the end.

 

Unless I am mistaken, and I admit to being fallible, I do believe that the OP has started several threads on several forums with the intent of installing some sort of late model computer driven whiz-bang shiverlay package.  It is interesting, at least to me, that he has gone full circle. I also find it interesting that he has not been more involved in this thread.... 

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Unless I am mistaken, and I admit to being fallible, I do believe that the OP has started several threads on several forums with the intent of installing some sort of late model computer driven whiz-bang shiverlay package.  It is interesting, at least to me, that he has gone full circle. I also find it interesting that he has not been more involved in this thread.... 

I'm new to the flathead six world and can't wait to build my engine. I'm a slant six guy. I've been doing lots of research and from what I have gleaned it seems the limiting factor is the top rpms of this engine. I have read threads about cross drilling cranks and modifications which have won tractor pulls etc. With all that said, I'd love to see any new technological advances which could be adapted to the L-head.

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doing mods to an under square engine to gain higher rpms is pretty much a self limiting exercise as you can't seem to mix high rpm, long piston travel and reliability at sustained revs.  I would think that for street useage more torque and properly adapted gearing would be the combination.  

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doing mods to an under square engine to gain higher rpms is pretty much a self limiting exercise as you can't seem to mix high rpm, long piston travel and reliability at sustained revs.  I would think that for street useage more torque and properly adapted gearing would be the combination.  

 

Spot on!  Far too many folks think that they can treat Chrysler products in a similar fashion to certain small-blocks utilizing a very short stroke.

The inline engines, as well as the Hemi engines, make the needed torque via a long stroke and were never designed to spin a gazillion rpm.

Simply put, they don't need to.

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Hi James

 

If your Desoto is the one that Don pictured in his post, then it is an absolute beauty.

 

I also found the video on the electric power steering boost fascinating. Am I right in that it would  look to be a $2k+ unit that would likely require a 12 volt conversion?

 

I remember reading on the HAMB a thread on getting more power out of the Mopar flathead 6 and it lead to this effort on the Studebaker flathead with a turbo

 

http://turbostude.com/

 

Looking forward to the direction that you'll take with this and updates on your Airstream adventures.

 

Tony

A lot of info on the stude turbo. I see a lot of info on new turbos for high rpm modern cars, that can produce a lot of HP, but not much info on

how much torque is produced. Our old engines have low HP but good torque. Wonder if a turbo from a small engine diesel would work better in our old type engines to produce more HP and Torque, in the rpm range we run at..

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Why not just build a new onverhead cam 24 valve cylinder head with multiport fuel injection and maybe add a supercharger?

Having worked on a couple of motors that were turbocharged for racing, I don't see the point of doing all of this engineering for our flatheads.  For one thing, any decent amount of boost would turn the OEM rods into pretzels just before the crank gets pitched out on the road.  This could be fixed with ca$h for a set of custom Carillo's, but the point of this thread was a motor to tow an Airstream, and there are way more effective solutions than spending multi-thousands of dollars building a modern interpretation of a 1930's-engineered flathead.  Personally I'd put a stroker B-block (chosen because a 383/400 B-block is easier to fit than a 440), and it is easy to get almost 500 ci with off-the-shelf parts) with a mild tune and a Torqueflite in it, and cruise up the mountains with no worries.

 

Marty

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Having worked on a couple of motors that were turbocharged for racing, I don't see the point of doing all of this engineering for our flatheads.  For one thing, any decent amount of boost would turn the OEM rods into pretzels just before the crank gets pitched out on the road.  This could be fixed with ca$h for a set of custom Carillo's, but the point of this thread was a motor to tow an Airstream, and there are way more effective solutions than spending multi-thousands of dollars building a modern interpretation of a 1930's-engineered flathead.  Personally I'd put a stroker B-block (chosen because a 383/400 B-block is easier to fit than a 440), and it is easy to get almost 500 ci with off-the-shelf parts) with a mild tune and a Torqueflite in it, and cruise up the mountains with no worries.

 

Marty

...more correctly, that combo can MOVE mountains... :P

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...more correctly, that combo can MOVE mountains... :P

Oh yeah!  Before I decided to build the flathead instead I had been building one of these for my 47.  With a 0.520 lift hydraulic cam it was projected to have over 500 lb/ft of torque from 1800-5400 RPM, peaking at almost 600 at 4800 RPM.  Maybe move mountain RANGES ........

 

Marty

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Marty, as you are a ship re-builder perhaps you can educate me. Are the engines used to move ships built around high torque or high horsepower and assuming most are direct drive to the props what RPM range is used?

 

Do under-drive and or over-drive transmissions come into play for prop reversal?

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Marty, as you are a ship re-builder perhaps you can educate me. Are the engines used to move ships built around high torque or high horsepower and assuming most are direct drive to the props what RPM range is used?

 

Do under-drive and or over-drive transmissions come into play for prop reversal?

Well, we're dealing with mid-size stuff, ferries and tugboats and such.  A lot of them are both high torque and high horsepower; they need the grunt to get going, and horsepower to stay there.  Typically 2000-4000 HP each, 2 to 4 engines (plus generators and more).  Most are not direct drive, as the engines run in the 2000+ RPM range with props maybe a quarter of that.  Tugboats maybe 10-12 knot max, but with bollard pull strength of 40-50 tons of force.  The four engine catamaran ferries can run 40+ knots, very spectacular.  Some of them used to be gas turbine-powered water jets, but all have been converted to diesel/prop boats over time.  Even with the ever-increasing pollution controls (the SF Bay has the tightest specs in the country) the engine builders keep coming up with more powerful diesel engines, with some of the trickier ones approaching 1 HP per ci.

 

Marty

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