Brandon S Posted October 31, 2013 Report Share Posted October 31, 2013 I've scanned the forum with no luck and over a month trying to get a solid run and driving me nuts...HELP! Engine and car finished,missing car shows now, plus I volunteered to drive a general in a Veterans Parade next weekend and I can't get this thing to run more than 20 seconds much less drive! Rebuilt a B&B D6G1, all new gaskets, factory settings, float is 5/64ths from the top set, gas pushing through valve into bowl and keeping filled, vaccum on the intake (wiper inlet) is 20s PSI green range, timing TDC (light tested), etc. and it SHOULD run in theory, right? Here's what I can figure out to establish a baseline setting for fine tuning so it can run without dying at idle (and draining battery after many attempted starts). If anybody has gone through this before: 1. For the threaded throttle rod from the bellcrank housing, where should the linkage arm be be set in relation to the throttle valve- fully closed, hair open, half way, full? Should the throttle adjustment screw be fully out with initial setting at closed or near closed? 2. The throttle screw in relation to #1, should this pull open the valve slightly from completely closed? How does it affect the choke cam? When the starter pedal is engaged, it pulls the bellcrank linkage bak anyway releasing s squirt down the body, right? 3. What is the baseline choke setting with the knob forward to the dash and the set screw on the cable? Should it allow the choke valve to free-range or traverse from fully open to fully closed? 4. I am assuming that the choke should be fully or near fully closed on starting/running so air can be drawn through the idle screw, right? The opening for that is tiny that apparently only a few degrees is the difference between air/no air. This is my 2nd carb I am trying and seems they are waaay too tempermental. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave72dt Posted October 31, 2013 Report Share Posted October 31, 2013 I'm guessing it's a P-14C you're working on. Throttle linkage needs to be set to hold the throttle plates wide open when the gas pedal is all the way to the floor. Idle speed screw will be turned in some. Screw it in a ways and then back it down after it is running to get the speed you want. Choke should be full open when the knob is pushed in. It may not need to be fully closed for starting. You'll have to learn it's "happy" spot.. The idle speed screw will increase the cold idle speed as well as the hot idle speed. Service manual? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hendo0601 Posted October 31, 2013 Report Share Posted October 31, 2013 The idle air mixture screw should be baselined by screwing it all the way in then backing it out approximately 1 to 1 1/2 turns. That should get it close enough to keep it running. The choke when fully closed should be fully closed, and with the choke off, the choke plate should be perpendicular (or nearly) to the throat of the carb i.e. straight up and down. The idle speed screw will effect the cold idle cam, but only if it is set so far out (high) that the cold idle cam wont contact the idle screw. Will the engine run for longer if you manually hold the throttle open? If so, how high do you have to hold the RPMs to keep it running? Try adjusting the idle screw to this RPM to allow it to idle at this speed and begin turning it down slowly to the desired RPM or until it cuts out. Once you have started it and let it run and die a few times, you shouldnt need to use the choke as that little bit of running time should be enough to start without the choke. If you can get it to idle after turning the idle screw down, hook up your vacuum gauge and begin tweaking the idle air/fuel mixture screw...turn it out and your vacuum should start to rise...keep turning it until vacuum no longer rises and the engine begins to run poorly...turn it back down to the maximum vacuum level you saw previously and that will be optimal idle mixture. If the engine wont run for more than 20 seconds no matter what the RPM is at, it sounds like you have a fuel starvation issue which needs to be addressed...clogged fuel line, filter, faulty pump. You can check this by starting it and nursing the engine along with some carb cleaner sprayed down the carb...if you can keep it running off of this supplemental fuel, then your issue is somewhere between the tank and the carb. Disconnect the fuel line at the carb and point it into a clean container while a friend/family member/dog/cat cranks the engine for about 20 seconds and see how much fuel comes out (mark the level on the containter) and the condition of the fuel. Pour that gas somewhere safe as the next test you will need to use the same container to check volume from the pump. Move further down to the inlet side of the fuel filter (assuming the filter is between the pump and carb) and re-test as described above for the same amount of cranking time. Is the level higher now? Clogged filter. Same? Possible bad pump volume or a restricted fuel line further back. What kind of fuel cap are you using on the tank? If the cap is sealing to the fuel filler you may be creating a vacuum inside of the fuel system causing starvation. Wow, sorry for rambling on so much...I just hope you can get this sorted out for Veteran's Day!!! I bet it would make that General's day to be able to ride in your car. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandon S Posted November 1, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 1, 2013 Appreciate the recommendations. Yes, a P-14C- I think there's only a few out there original left and one on ebay now asking $1800 for a gutted out one. Service manual and Carter rebuild instructions don't really cover this topic and after a repop fuel filter and a carb I rebuilt myself that didn't do the trick, I got an AC NOS pump and a professionally rebuilt carb on e-bay for BIG bucks. New stainless steel form-fitted lines and my tank was chemiclaly etched and coated with the Kreem kit so not thinking blockage or rust particles. 2 filters- one glass bowl and one in-line. You know, I didn't think of the gas cap- it's a Roberts one I think with a rubber gasket seal so will try with that off and see what happens. It's probably something too simple that goes overlooked. Thanks for the carb advise so I will re-check again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hendo0601 Posted November 1, 2013 Report Share Posted November 1, 2013 Yeah the fuel cap is an often overlooked part of the fuel system especially on these older cars. If it starts and runs and stays running with the cap off, just mail me a 6 pack of beer and we will call it good....LOL only kidding, I really hope that works so you can get motorvating! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandon S Posted November 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2013 No beer yet! Same-same and tried everything- even gravity feeding gas, spraying banigold with starter fluid for leaks, etc. I'm thinking the only thing left is the heat riser valve as it gets worse the longer it is heated up. Outside is adjusted properly but maybe i didn't put together. Gonna pull it off this morning... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted November 3, 2013 Report Share Posted November 3, 2013 When did you last inspect/clean/replace the spark plugs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted November 3, 2013 Report Share Posted November 3, 2013 did you do the fuel quantity/flow test as outlined in the manual??? I am always leery of coated gas tanks, as these tanks have a filter on the pick up. What does the coating do to them??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ194950 Posted November 4, 2013 Report Share Posted November 4, 2013 I've coated two 50 Ply. tanks that have floating pickups with a filter(screen?) and no matter how many times I rotated the tank and when almost dry by watching and blowing air thru the fuel outlet, placed upside down and rotsted upright again and shaking tank just before 100% dry, both got almost totally plugged and would only drip fuel out after reinstalling the dryed almost full tank! I ended up blowing air in until the tank appeared about to burst and then a loud POP! Then the fuel finally came out in a reasonable amount. Did I clear out the screen? Blow it off? Get the floating pickup loose? I don't know! At least it now works. How many tank reliner Co.'s know about the pickup/screen to even do what I tried and still did not work? Just my past experience, Doug Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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