Mr. Hopkins said I can finally buy his 48!!

[Silo-rodncycle]

More pics of the 54

[Dennis_MN]

Mr Hopkins must have been a real Dodge fan, that Travco motorhome is on a Dodge chassis.

[Scruffy49]

If that 54 was closer to home, I'd be on my way to get it. I could use a heavier duty truck. Monstrous pecan harvest in a month or so... and it happens every other year. Give's me time to get a truck like that going again and back earning its keep.

[Silo-rodncycle]

Here's what I'm working with ..

Looks like the bulk of the rust repair will be in the rear qrtr's and wheel wells .

The plan is to fix any rot larger that a golf ball and preserve the patina as is .

[Silo-rodncycle]

More rust

[Silo-rodncycle]

More pics

[Silo-rodncycle]

Pics

[Silo-rodncycle]

Heading home wed. In the am

I post more when I have her on the lift !!

Oh and some one asked how will lower the truck ?

My plan is to ...

In the rear put the axel in top of the leaf spring

And c notch the frame extra beefy

In the front do a drop axel having the ibeam stretched by Sid at droppedaxels.com

[De Soto Frank]

Wow.  It even still has the original seats in it!

 

I'm surprised it rolled, after sitting sunk into the dirt all that time... usually the brakes are bound-up tight from drum rust.

 

 

Sounds like your're pretty fixed on a resto-mod,  but it might be fun to initially get it going with the old flathead, and drive it that way for a season...  just a thought...

 

Keep us posted !

 

De Soto Frank

Edited October 2, 2013 by De Soto Frank

[Apittslife]

Frank, I am pretty sure the Engine & Tramsnission are MIA. In the Pics of the front floor & toe-boards there is to much Light comming in.

 

The Panel is actually in Great shape for its age & the fact that it is in Wisconsin ( I am originally from the Sheboygan/Milwaukee areas), The rust you have is common for all those areas, & minor in my opinion.

Mine was actually much worse, & I bought it in the early 90's. I will definately be watching this thread.

[pflaming]

1) patina: I cleaned mine with lacquer thinner then wet sanded it with 800 and 1000 grit. I have not polished it.

2) be prepared for rust cuts and nicks on your hands. I have a bottle of iodine at my computer and the cuts get treated often.

3) I'm deep into fixing a rust challenge so I understand what you have ahead of you.

4) You will enjoy the truck, fix the mechanicals so it is legal and safe and drive it as you fix the rest.

 

Good luck will be watching along with Apittslife and others I'm sure.

[48Dodger]

A lot of the Panel is the same as the 1/2, 3/4, 1 ton trucks....so parts are available to you through the normal channels here. The rear doors are definately the biggest challenge for me. So I would say to be careful when working in that area. Those front corner areas that are rotted out....still a few cabs laying around that can be used to save your project.  

 

The drop you have planned sounds good. The only suggestion I would make is to block the vehicle up, locate the new center for the tires, and check for clearances related to spring load. There isn't a lot of room in the rear wheel well, but plenty in the front.

 

48D

Edited October 2, 2013 by 48dodger

[Todd B]

Scruffy;

Jeez......I had well over 500k miles on my 76 Jimmy with a 4 bolt 350 in it. Replaced the module once in all that time Cost $22. Other than that if you use Delco caps and rotors they run and run and run. When I sold it it still ran fine with the original bottom end and pistons. I kinda wish I had gone that route with this truck........would have been a lot simpler and infinitely cheaper.

Jeff

I totally agree with Jeff, my 88' one ton dump I bought new with a 350 has gone to hell and back, pushing 400k and still going strong. I also put a 327 in my b1b 30 years ago and I can still burn rubber in the first 3 gears.   

[Jeff Balazs]

I totally agree with Jeff, my 88' one ton dump I bought new with a 350 has gone to hell and back, pushing 400k and still going strong. I also put a 327 in my b1b 30 years ago and I can still burn rubber in the first 3 gears.   

Wow Todd.......it is a rare thing when someone totally agrees with me.

I was just trying to make the point that there is a reason why a SBC and in particular the 4 bolt variants are a very popular engine. That is not to say that putting a Mopar engine in one of these trucks is not most likely a better long term move for preserving the resale value. It certainly is. A small Hemi like a Red Ram would be very cool and I am sure would do little to hurt the overall value. Of course we all know the situation when it comes to the difference in parts availibilty and cost.

 

Jeff

[GlennCraven]

Thanks for all the pics and updates. I'm eager to follow this one.

[Silo-rodncycle]

Alright !!

The old girl is home safe and sound !

Now let's try and get them drums off

Don't worry I have 10" of clearance from the beam ...

Any tips on getting the drums off ?

[pflaming]

hub removal: Forget taking them off, just remove the old axle and replace with a newer one. LOTS LESS WORK and you will have new and better brakes and will get an easy 65 MPH on the highways with a 3:73, even better with a lower number hogs' head . IMHE

[48Dodger]

The drums are hard to remove.

 

This is a tool made for the job.

 

Now, where to find one in your area?   

 

48D

 

[Scruffy49]

Pull and toss the original rear axle. Get one out of a Grand Cherokee, Cherokee, Ranger, S10, Dakota, etc. If you aren't going for a stone stock 100 point vehicle, update whatever you can. I'm currently keeping the 230 and 3 on the floor with my old 218 as a back up block. But if I get a smoking deal on a 302 or 351 Windsor, all bets are off. If I decide to make my B1B have a tilt nose, the 318/727 out of the Sweptline could go right into the PH. The Sweptline can sit and rot until I get a front mount dizzy equipped engine for it, and I'm not pulling the 413/727 out of the RV to stuff into a half ton.

 

I have a bad lumbar spine, my shoulders are shot, and I wake up every morning with my knees on fire. I'd rather crush a rig with a rear mount dizzy than deal with it these days. I'm 41, don't see how the OLD guys on the forum manage somedays.

[Jeff Balazs]

Pull and toss the original rear axle. Get one out of a Grand Cherokee, Cherokee, Ranger, S10, Dakota, etc. If you aren't going for a stone stock 100 point vehicle, update whatever you can. I'm currently keeping the 230 and 3 on the floor with my old 218 as a back up block. But if I get a smoking deal on a 302 or 351 Windsor, all bets are off. If I decide to make my B1B have a tilt nose, the 318/727 out of the Sweptline could go right into the PH. The Sweptline can sit and rot until I get a front mount dizzy equipped engine for it, and I'm not pulling the 413/727 out of the RV to stuff into a half ton.

 

I have a bad lumbar spine, my shoulders are shot, and I wake up every morning with my knees on fire. I'd rather crush a rig with a rear mount dizzy than deal with it these days. I'm 41, don't see how the OLD guys on the forum manage somedays.

At 58, 6'-1' and 225# I find working under the dash most challenging. Got to be able to ignore the pain. What is needed is a midget contortionist that is good at wiring!

You might want to look hard at a Cherokee or Grand Cherokee rear axle swap. Would almost have to be easier and cheaper than trying to save the original brakes and axle. There are several threads here on the subject and quite a few of us who have done them.

Jeff

[austinsailor]

I have several 241 hemi motors if you decide to go that route. I can tell you, though, it wouldn't be the cheapest way to go. They are real proud of hemi parts.

[Young Ed]

I have several 241 hemi motors if you decide to go that route. I can tell you, though, it wouldn't be the cheapest way to go. They are real proud of hemi parts.

 

Weren't you supposed to drop one of those off for me..........

[Barry Maxwell]

 

At 58, 6'-1' and 225# I find working under the dash most challenging. Got to be able to ignore the pain. What is needed is a midget contortionist that is good at wiring!

Jeff:

Dave Erb (AKA Graybeard) made a comment several years ago that he pressed his very young grandson who is built like a snake into service under the dash. Dave also recommended that all wires under the dash that come through the firewall be extended 6-8" so that you can work in front of the dash rather than under it. When I had my harness made by RIW, I had them extend those wires. I can hardly wait until I get to that stage in my project (months away).

Barry

[Jeff Balazs]

 

At 58, 6'-1' and 225# I find working under the dash most challenging. Got to be able to ignore the pain. What is needed is a midget contortionist that is good at wiring!

Jeff:

Dave Erb (AKA Graybeard) made a comment several years ago that he pressed his very young grandson who is built like a snake into service under the dash. Dave also recommended that all wires under the dash that come through the firewall be extended 6-8" so that you can work in front of the dash rather than under it. When I had my harness made by RIW, I had them extend those wires. I can hardly wait until I get to that stage in my project (months away).

Barry

Hi Barry;

I remember reading that.... ....but the only Grandson I have is an ornery little Chihuahua named Cooper....aka the coopercahbra. And the viciuos little swine has come close to being made into a hood ornament by Grandpa more than once. Good thing for him he is cute.

 

Also I have made several mods that require "creative" wiring and routing. Almost done though........ just cleaning it up now. Hopefully I have done a good enough job so that I won't have to revisit it any time soon.

 

You are I believe doing things the smart way and not deviating much from original. Extending the harness a bit on the dash side is probably a very savvy move. Not sure if it will completey eliminate the need to crawl under there ...... but it should help. Hang in there  .....that day will come.

 

Jeff

[HanksB3B]

 

It is great that you have taken a picture of the Original/Former owner with the truck.

 

I concur,

 

Hank 

 

Welcome

Edited October 3, 2013 by HanksB3B