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Tune Up


dodgeguy

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Still a lot of newbie questions. What brand of sparkplugs and specs u guys recommend. and where to buy tune up parts.Also need a headlite switch, any ideas, and a good wiring diagrahm. I have other old cars and hot rods but this thing is the most fun so far!

Edited by dodgeguy
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There is a wiring diagram in the downloads section of this website.  AC 45, 46, 47 or auto lie equiv seem to work better than the J8, 10, 12 Champions.

There are several distributors that will interchange to these engines, but parts like points and rotors and caps are different between the several used.  When getting tune up parts you must order them by distributor part number.  This number can be found on the tag on the dist.  It is easiest acceded with the dist out of the engine.  It is easy to pull the dist, and easier to deal with replacing and gapping the points, ad swapping the condensers.  It also a good chance to check the wires within the dist body and to check the breaker plate for smooth action, and check the shaft for runout.   Unfortunately most points sets o the market today are poorly made offshore stuff.  I got a good set from car quest which had a phenolic rubbing block, instead of some unidentified plastic looking like disposable table ware.  It also had a lubrication wick which has disappeared from the Chinese/Mexican stuff.  If you don't have a working radio you don't need resistor plugs, if you need new plug wires, tractor supply universal 6 cylinder set is a good source and still under 30 bucks.  If you can't source ign parts locally you can get the from Vintage Power wagons, and Burnbaum or Roberts motor parts, teo of which advertise on this forum.

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Still a lot of newbie questions. What brand of sparkplugs and specs u guys recommend. and where to buy tune up parts.Also need a headlite switch, any ideas, and a good wiring diagrahm. I have other old cars and hot rods but this thing is the most fun so far!

 

When asking about parts for a car or truck it is advised that you at least let us know what model car or truck and year.  There is a lot of information that the various experiecned memebrs can provide but we are not mind readers.  We all need the baisic information to help answer your questions.

 

As stated the dizzy models did chnage with various years so we need to know that so we can tell which points, rotor, condensor and cap to order .  ALso search on ebay under you car or truck model year  you will find lots of things being offered and this is another opportunity to know what specific items you will need.

 

I have an autolite book with this information let me know the specifics.

 

Rich Hartung

Desoto1939@aol.com

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If you use the evr-dry wires, how do you get the washer off the spark plug like they recomend? I also heard that people leave the washer on and just tighten the plug down more. That doesn't sound good.

If you are trying to remove the sealing washer from a spark plug simply unscrew it. Why do you want to install ever dry wires? They will cause more problems than they will resolve. Pictured is what happens with an ever dry kit.

 

Spit3.jpg

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Don, that head looks like it was sitting out in a field for years with the hood open. I can see how the evr-dry things help keep the spark plug dry if you use the wire cap that goes with it. I don't think there's anything to keep water from pooling in there by the plug but don't you think it would keep the plug from rusting?

And I tried to unscrew the washer from the plug but was afraid I'd strip the threads because it wasn't unscrewing. I even tried it on a bad plug and couldn't get it off.

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The 1946-50 Chrysler "8" cars came with Evr-Dry's. They really do add a custom detailed look too. Mine have not gotten rusty on any of my cars!

Edited by Dodgeb4ya
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The 1946-50 Chrysler cars came with Evr-Dry's. They really do add a custom detailed look too. Mine have not gotten rusty on any of my cars!

 PArt of the reason why you do not have any rust is that you have the alligator style hod on your car.  The early cars had the butterfly style hood that had the hoos hinge down the middle of the hood and the water would then leak in via the center pivot chrome hinge and then the water would collect in the spark plug holes.  Also at the same time when they had the coil that came throught the fire wall they ahd an issue that when there was mositure or heavy dew the cars would have a hard time starting becasue the coil wires to the dizzy would get mositure. So in the later years they moved the coil to be mounted on the braket just off the top of the head to eliminate this issue. Shorten the lenght of the wire and this solved the probblem to a degree.

 

Rich HArtung

Desoto1949@aol.com

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Mine don't rust because I don't drive them in the rain. Our "very wet" rain can destroy an old car in a month here in the great Nortwest!

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  • 6 years later...

Hello. I wanted to bring this thread back as I have been looking at the evr-dry kit as well. I have a 48 Special Deluxe, so don't have to worry about a leaky hood. But the humidity stays pretty high here and the dew in the morning makes it look like it rained overnight. I have definitely noticed trouble starting on the wetter days, and thought these might help. But it could be older wires as well being affected by the moisture rather than the plugs. The car sounded like a quiet sewing machine 2 weeks ago, but all of a sudden has developed a slight intermittent miss, and what sounds like a minor exhaust leak. I thought the miss sounded like a vacuum leak, but spraying carb cleaner everywhere didn't affect the idle. I did, however, have to adjust the air screw at the base of the carb to make it idle better. I am thinking it might all be ignition related, as it is unlikely that all of these issues presented themselves simultaneously. This is actually my first flathead, so I will have tons of questions. The fist being, could just dew condensating be enough to make it hard to start? And would the evr-dry kit actually help. Thanks

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On 8/27/2013 at 2:21 PM, desoto1939 said:

 PArt of the reason why you do not have any rust is that you have the alligator style hod on your car.  The early cars had the butterfly style hood that had the hoos hinge down the middle of the hood and the water would then leak in via the center pivot chrome hinge and then the water would collect in the spark plug holes.  Also at the same time when they had the coil that came throught the fire wall they ahd an issue that when there was mositure or heavy dew the cars would have a hard time starting becasue the coil wires to the dizzy would get mositure. So in the later years they moved the coil to be mounted on the braket just off the top of the head to eliminate this issue. Shorten the lenght of the wire and this solved the probblem to a degree.

 

Rich HArtung

Desoto1949@aol.com

You're right about that Rich, but the later hoods were still 2 pieces just spot welded on the seams and cross braced on the under side. My 48 still gets water in the plug holes, (mainly #5 and #6 plug holes) but I drive mine at least 3-4 times a week and it boils/evaporates out. My plugs last a couple of years, but after 6 months or so they look rusty.

 

On 8/27/2013 at 2:52 PM, greg g said:

Besides how many of the cars on this board are exposed to everyday weather???

Mine is outside all the time, and if you think Florida is the Sunshine state, think again. If it is not the rain it's the humidity. Granted it doesn't rain all the time, but I'd  say at least every 2 weeks a system blows in from the gulf or the west and we get crappy weather for a few days.  

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20 hours ago, ozzmonaut said:

Hello. I wanted to bring this thread back as I have been looking at the evr-dry kit as well. I have a 48 Special Deluxe, so don't have to worry about a leaky hood. But the humidity stays pretty high here and the dew in the morning makes it look like it rained overnight. I have definitely noticed trouble starting on the wetter days, and thought these might help. But it could be older wires as well being affected by the moisture rather than the plugs. The car sounded like a quiet sewing machine 2 weeks ago, but all of a sudden has developed a slight intermittent miss, and what sounds like a minor exhaust leak. I thought the miss sounded like a vacuum leak, but spraying carb cleaner everywhere didn't affect the idle. I did, however, have to adjust the air screw at the base of the carb to make it idle better. I am thinking it might all be ignition related, as it is unlikely that all of these issues presented themselves simultaneously. This is actually my first flathead, so I will have tons of questions. The fist being, could just dew condensating be enough to make it hard to start? And would the evr-dry kit actually help. Thanks

To check the condition of those wires. On a dark night, take a spray bottle of water, and mist those well wires to see if there is any arcing when running.  I suppose you could do the same thing during the day to see if it adversely affects the starting/running, but the nighttime light show can be impressive.  TSC used to carry a set of plug wires that can be used as a replacement set.

Edited by _shel_ny
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If you had to adjust the air mix screw, you might look at your carb's throttle plate rod. I know mine is worn and sucks air in. It is really noticeable when starting and worming up the car, especially in cooler weather. As for tune up and replacement parts, local auto stores will have most of what you need and then there's Andy B's, Rockauto and so forth. For a new battery I would use Tractor Supply. They have a good turn over rate on 6 volt batteries and unlike the auto parts stores, you won't get one with a sticker that says the battery has been on the shelf for over a year.

 

Joe Lee

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Back in the days of point type ignitions I lived in San Diego. The first rain of the season every year was the day I joyfully went to work at the dealership. All the cars that wheezed along all summer finally quit when the moisture got heavy. The tow trucks gathered them in and we had plenty of tune up work. When points went away so did that business. The electronic ignitions would fire the worst caps, rotors, wires and spark plugs. The solution to the owners problem was a no brainer, all new ignition parts. Usually they picked up their car and it ran so much better than they remembered we were "geniuses." Then we wouldn't see them again for at least two years.

 

There was a big housing development to the north and all the houses were built before the code requirement that gas water heaters had to be on a platform 18 inches off the floor. When I'd go home that night there would be a news story about an explosion and fire. The film would show some dazed guy being wheeled to the ambulance with his garage smoking in the background. When the car wouldn't start some folks would attempt to repair their own jalopy. Because it was raining and cold they would close the garage door and somewhere along the line decide to wash some parts in gasoline. BOOM!

It happened so many times it was predictable and we just had to laugh. I think the local TV stations sent their camera crews out there waiting for the fireworks because it seemed like they always got there before the fires were put out. I guess I am cynical.

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Hello,

You might consider a Petronics electronic ignition. I put one in my 48 Plymouth Spl Deluxe and was able to keep it 6V positive ground. It helped the starting. Also consider a Overdrive(from a later Plymouth 51-53. I used a Overdrive from a 53 Plymouth, it was a simple swap(Input shafts are the same length, just bolted in, and hook up the wiring) Drive like a dream on the southern California freeways.

 

Enjoy!

Ernie Baily

48 Glendale Elks car show.JPG

My 48 Plymouth.jpg

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  • 9 months later...

Just a quick thanks to the participants in this thread.

 I found the spark plug part numbers I was looking for and no longer live with the guilt of not having bought ever dry plug wires. 
....now it’s time to put some sealant in the hood seam!

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