41/53dodges Posted July 14, 2013 Report Share Posted July 14, 2013 (edited) Hey guys, It's been awhile since the pickup got some attention on here, an my trip today to the flea market brought out some issues in it. The mustang radiator in it is likely too small, doing 45-50 most of the way it was bordering on overheating on an 80 degree day, but like I said likely the dinky radiator. The real issue(s) are more to do with the engine itself. The truck seems to top out around 60-65, running a 3.55 rear end, and the engine is just stupid noisy at those speeds! 60 is pedal to the metal, which seems like it should do more... I remember the engine having more power than this too. The fuel mileage is in the toilet, maybe 10 mpg at best. Does anybody have any suggestions? I tried to adjust the valves but I don't think I'm very good at that... Thanks, Josh EDIT: It also seems to have this odd miss at idle, it doesnt act like one cylinder down, but like it just randomly misses on occasion. i can't seem to get it to go away regardless of carburetor adjustment Edited July 14, 2013 by 41/53dodges Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
41/53dodges Posted July 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2013 Im attempting to adjust valves, but .014 exh and .010 int is still really noisy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MBF Posted July 15, 2013 Report Share Posted July 15, 2013 I would say that is about correct for a 3.55 comparing it to the same rear I have in my 78 pickup with the slant 6. It'll do 60 comfortably but at 65 its starting to wind up. Have you done a compression and leakdown test on each cylinder to see what is going on internally? Do you have a brake hanging up? Just some things to check. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted July 15, 2013 Report Share Posted July 15, 2013 I would say you've got something wrong and/or just aren't used to the noise they make. I do 60-65 easily with my 3.73 plymouth so your pickup with the 3.55 should do it even easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted July 15, 2013 Report Share Posted July 15, 2013 1976 D100, short bed camper special 225/727/3.55 and 75 was an easy gait for this truck....I cruised the interstate with no problems...loaded...I wonder why the difference? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
41/53dodges Posted July 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2013 There is definately something wrong, the engine seemed to be vibrating more, even at idle. Hopefully the valve adjustment helped some, plus I think the brakes may be hanging up a little bit. should be fixed tomorrow, but it really would be nice if it would cruise decently at 55-60. but it simply won't do it! it runs out of steam, plus does not seem to have the power it used to. keep in mind, Ive only known it with the 3.55 -Josh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted July 15, 2013 Report Share Posted July 15, 2013 just what year is this pickup? how is it equipped...why does it have the small radiator... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted July 15, 2013 Report Share Posted July 15, 2013 Remember that the harder an engine works the greater the heat build up. Fix your other problems before you attack the radiator. How is your ignition timing? Better to hear the valves slightly ticking. If they are adjusted too tight you will burn a valve. I have seen tight exhaust valves burnt so bad that not only is the valve and valve seat destroyed but also the engine block is destroyed beyond repair. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
41/53dodges Posted July 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2013 52' dodge B4B, 3.55 cherokee rear axle, 230 flathead with new rings 300 miles ago, 3 speed on the column. Original radiator was no good, so clearly if it fits in the hole it's good enough... Ignition timing is set to 4 degrees advance at idle, the valves still tick some but not nearly as bad, they were really loud to a point where it sounded like a diesel. With the little car radiator it will never work right as a real truck anyways, so that needs fixing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted July 15, 2013 Report Share Posted July 15, 2013 Back your timing off to 2 degrees or less. The dieseling you hear may be due to too much timing advance and this will make the engine run hotter. As I said fix the dragging brakes, timing, and what ever else needs fixing before you attack the radiator. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave72dt Posted July 15, 2013 Report Share Posted July 15, 2013 Did it run well when first reassembled 300 miles ago? How hot has it gotten? Does it get hot quickly? Did the power go away all of a sudden or gradually lessen over that period of miles? Just rings or was it bored too? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
41/53dodges Posted July 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2013 (edited) I would say the power went away after the engine was all put back together, likely some adjustment. maybe it didnt like me taking the timing chain with 2" of slop out! it did run very well when first assembled however, just never really go the chance to road test it much. It has never boiled over, just gotten warm enough to a point of concern. It was honed and ringed, cylinders were still in good shape and checked out with a bore gauge (must have been cheap rings in it?) It did also recieve a different head that was shaved, but that shouldn't do this? -Josh I did just remember though that the points are the ones I got with it, certainly wouldnt hurt to replace! Edited July 15, 2013 by 41/53dodges Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted July 15, 2013 Report Share Posted July 15, 2013 be sure the tension on the points is great enough to ensure proper closure at higher RPM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
41/53dodges Posted July 16, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2013 Well I adjusted the valves again yesterday, .008 intake, .012 exhaust (hot) and it quieted right down. Today I tore into the distributor, the points were a little pitted, but not bad. The fun part was the centrifugal advance! it was completely covered in spider web! so that got all torn down and cleaned up. Timed it with a vacuum gauge, now it runs like a top, plus the engine seems much smoother at all speeds, and nearly silent at idle. But of course, every silver lining has to have a cloud. When I lay on the gas, the thing leaves an enourmous cloud of oil smoke behind it, and seems to do it at idle too. So now for a compression test, hopefully it didnt get damaged somehow... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
41/53dodges Posted July 16, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2013 There is a wall somewhere that should have an indent of my face on it, All I have to say is, stupid oil bath air cleaner... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B1B Keven Posted July 16, 2013 Report Share Posted July 16, 2013 There is a wall somewhere that should have an indent of my face on it, All I have to say is, stupid oil bath air cleaner... Cut the bottom out of the top of the air cleaner and install a paper filter from a Volkswagen Vanagon. You'll also need to make a flat 'doughnut' shaped piece for the bottom of the base (where the oil would be). http://www.ebay.com/itm/K-N-air-filter-A065A12-VW-Vanagon-86-91-yr-283-/130814886453?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e752cc235&vxp=mtr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted July 16, 2013 Report Share Posted July 16, 2013 There is a wall somewhere that should have an indent of my face on it, All I have to say is, stupid oil bath air cleaner... An inaniment object cannot be stupid. What are you saying here? Oil bath air cleaners work great unless they are overfilled. Is that what you are saying? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted July 16, 2013 Report Share Posted July 16, 2013 I should add that there is a high level fill mark in all oil bath filters. If the filler exceeds that mark expect problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TodFitch Posted July 16, 2013 Report Share Posted July 16, 2013 Cut the bottom out of the top of the air cleaner and install a paper filter from a Volkswagen Vanagon. You'll also need to make a flat 'doughnut' shaped piece for the bottom of the base (where the oil would be). http://www.ebay.com/itm/K-N-air-filter-A065A12-VW-Vanagon-86-91-yr-283-/130814886453?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e752cc235&vxp=mtr Or, cheaper and easier yet, read GTK's recent blog post: http://p15-d24.com/blog/9/entry-15-old-technology-doesnt-always-mean-obsolete-technology/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
41/53dodges Posted July 16, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2013 the oil is actually about 1/8" lower than the mark, but somehow it sucked oil up through the middle and into the carburetor. Not through the hair, but up the middle (between the top and bottom halves). odd issue really. anybody else ever have this happen? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P15-D24 Posted July 16, 2013 Report Share Posted July 16, 2013 the oil is actually about 1/8" lower than the mark, but somehow it sucked oil up through the middle and into the carburetor. Not through the hair, but up the middle (between the top and bottom halves). odd issue really. anybody else ever have this happen? Too much oil... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Balazs Posted July 16, 2013 Report Share Posted July 16, 2013 Cut the bottom out of the top of the air cleaner and install a paper filter from a Volkswagen Vanagon. You'll also need to make a flat 'doughnut' shaped piece for the bottom of the base (where the oil would be). http://www.ebay.com/itm/K-N-air-filter-A065A12-VW-Vanagon-86-91-yr-283-/130814886453?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e752cc235&vxp=mtr With all due respect a much better fix is to use a K&N oiled gauze filter made for a 3.8 liter Toyota inline 6. All the air that flows through one of these is well filtered and they are not nearly as restrictive as a paper filter. Oil bath filters actually allows quite a fair amount of dirt through because the most of the air entering your engine flows over the oil rather than through it. Do a test for yourself......run each one of these for 3 months and then clean them. You will be shocked by the amount of crud the K & N has caught.......and surprised by how clean the oil in the oil bath still is. If the oil bath worked anywhere near as well as the K & N it would be filthy too. When you clean the K & N go ahead an feel the grit that is released by the detergent......I promise you it is not something you want running through your engine. Filtering the abrasive stuff out of the air mixture entering your engine is probably the easiest thing you can do to improve it's lifespan. Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Desotodav Posted July 16, 2013 Report Share Posted July 16, 2013 With all due respect a much better fix is to use a K&N oiled gauze filter made for a 3.8 liter Toyota inline 6. All the air that flows through one of these is well filtered and they are not nearly as restrictive as a paper filter. Oil bath filters actually allows quite a fair amount of dirt through because the most of the air entering your engine flows over the oil rather than through it. Do a test for yourself......run each one of these for 3 months and then clean them. You will be shocked by the amount of crud the K & N has caught.......and surprised by how clean the oil in the oil bath still is. If the oil bath worked anywhere near as well as the K & N it would be filthy too. When you clean the K & N go ahead an feel the grit that is released by the detergent......I promise you it is not something you want running through your engine. Filtering the abrasive stuff out of the air mixture entering your engine is probably the easiest thing you can do to improve it's lifespan. Jeff I did a custom K&N air filter mod for my 52 truck Jeff and couldn't be happier. My air is now filtered through oil-impregnated K&N filter foam which I can wash out and re-oil at required intervals. It still looks like a factory oil bath air filter to any critic ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merle Coggins Posted July 16, 2013 Report Share Posted July 16, 2013 I gutted my air filter to use a paper element because it was all rusted out from laying in the bed of my truck and filling with water before I got it. I initially used a paper element, but this winter I changed it to a K&N filter. I'm not sure what it is supposed to fit. I just matched up by size. It's a E-3270. Merle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
41/53dodges Posted July 16, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2013 I did a custom K&N air filter mod for my 52 truck Jeff and couldn't be happier. My air is now filtered through oil-impregnated K&N filter foam which I can wash out and re-oil at required intervals. It still looks like a factory oil bath air filter to any critic ... You wouldnt happen to know the model number for that filter or what it goes to, would you? -Josh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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