wings515 Posted June 14, 2013 Report Share Posted June 14, 2013 1941 Plymouth rear end Is there a procedure or trick to remove the rear axle? I want to replace the outer bearing and outer oilseal and according to the repair manual the aaxle must be removed. Without the original MOPAR tooling does anyone have a suggestion for the removal. Also, once removed, what determines the location of the axle bearing on the shaft. Thanks so much, Dan Kahn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_shel_ny Posted June 15, 2013 Report Share Posted June 15, 2013 This may give you some ideas. http://mopar.pairserver.com/p15d24ph_forum/topic/24456-rear-axle-removal/?hl=%2Baxle+%2Bremoval There may be shims. Note how many, and where. Put back same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P15-D24 Posted June 15, 2013 Report Share Posted June 15, 2013 Remove the brake drum. Remove the four bolts holding the backing plate, then carefully lift the entire brake assembly past the axle end. Be very careful not to kink the brake line and use a hook or hanger to hang it above the rear axle. (this way you don't have to disconnect the brake line and re-bleed). Remove the shims (if any) as Shel mentioned. You will need a slide hammer to get the axle and seals out. Attach the hammer to the nut on the end of the axle and give it a couple slaps and it will pop right out. Next put a hook on the slide hammer to remove the seals. Again a couple slaps of the hammer and the seals will come right out. Pull the other side the same way and you can then pull the pumpkin. You will need a press to remove and re-install the bearings on the axles. When you put it back together make sure you prelube the bearing and pack them as noted in the Tech section. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P15-D24 Posted June 15, 2013 Report Share Posted June 15, 2013 If I remember correctly the bearing location is determined by a step on the axle. It will be obvious when you have the axle out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
desoto1939 Posted June 15, 2013 Report Share Posted June 15, 2013 Since the rear brakes do not have the rubber brake hose you will have to disconnect the brake line from the rear of the brake cylinder. Also suggest that you put a block of wood behind the brake pedal so that it willnot go down and then lose brake fluid. just a safety precaution. rich hartung Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P15-D24 Posted June 15, 2013 Report Share Posted June 15, 2013 Since the rear brakes do not have the rubber brake hose you will have to disconnect the brake line from the rear of the brake cylinder. Also suggest that you put a block of wood behind the brake pedal so that it willnot go down and then lose brake fluid. just a safety precaution. rich hartung If your are careful you don't need to disconnect the metal brake lines. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wings515 Posted June 16, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2013 Thank you all for the ideas and suggestions. I have ordered from MSC a 2" 3/4-16 coupling and threaded rod. I fabricated a puller like the one shown in the shop manual. It's made of iron pipe and a piece of 1/2 plywood. I'll see if it works, if not I can borrow a slide hammer that just happens to have a 3/4-16 thread that will nicely screw onto the coupling. This rear end is a second one I have so it does not have the brake lines installed. When I change the inner oil seal and bearings I'll swap over all the "good" parts from the one in the truck and install the completed one in it's place. I have another question but will post it as a separate listing. Thanks again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wings515 Posted June 19, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2013 Well it is done. I The iron pipe spacer worked great. I just had to add a bearing to provide a thrust surface for the coupling nut on the threaded rod. The axles came out without a hitch. Pressing the old bearings off and the new ones on was also not a problem since I do have access to a 20 ton press. To get out the oil seal I borrowed a hook on a slide hammer and out they came. The pinion seal was a little harder but I got the hook between the spline and seal and with a couple of good slams out it came. The wheel cylinders from Andy Burnbaum have piston bores the same size on both sides. I don't think that will make a difference. The brake shoes that were installed were the same size front and back. With these new wheel cylinders I am going to use the original shoes. If I feel they are not working correctly, I have another set of shoes with different sizes and install them. I just have to find a rivet setting tool. Anybody know where I can get the correct rivet set? Thanks for all the suggestions. Regards Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ194950 Posted June 28, 2013 Report Share Posted June 28, 2013 From what i've read- Most states if not all in thoses years used the motor # for rego. Same # was on rear? frame (was in 49-50 the only years if my experience). The ID # was used for ?? My 50 four dr. is rego'ed IN CA. by the screwed on body # under the hood(firewall). At least it matches some # !!! Tottally wrong maybe, but it works!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bobby198412 Posted July 20, 2018 Report Share Posted July 20, 2018 Can someone show me the correct slide hammer to purchase? I need to do the exact same job. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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