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Gas Tank 50 Plymouth


Alshere59

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So I dropped my tank today as it has a leak at the seam. It came out easy enough and after getting it out I can see someone has used some type of liner inside. I guess that failed over time. My question is how to fix it.

It seems solid other than the seam looks like it coming apart. There was just a few specks of rust inside. My concern is using another sealer over the existing and the seam itself. Not sure how it was put together from the factory.

 

So any thoughts?

 

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Just looking at what is out there for options on a replacement gas tank while all of the shops are closed.

The closest I have found is for a 55 56 Chevy.
The picture shows what I would have to do with the existing bracket. Anyone use any other tanks for a 50 Plymouth? I put the old one back in place today and the exhaust may be a problem but would just need to be moved a bit. Other than that re plumb the fuel line and extend the upper brackets.
 

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Here is link to the tank I am looking at but plan on taking my old one someplace to see if it can be repaired first.
 

http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=132/category_id=113/home_id=59/mode=prod/prd132.htm

 

Mine measures

  • Overall Size: 26"W x 22"L x 9 3/4"H
  • The 55 Chevy tank in the link has these measurements.
  • Overall Size: 24-1/2"W x 25"L x 8"H

My tank for comparison.

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http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brand-New-15-Gal-Gas-Fuel-Tank-For-4-2-GAS-/400320606623?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3AJeep&hash=item5d34f7b19f&vxp=mtr#ht_1870wt_912

 

 

There are several new Jeep fuel tanks, that are very similar to size and shape,

 

to our Plymouths.       About $70 new, delivered....

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Thanks Robert

 

I will add that to the list. Definitely cheaper that the other and would only need the fuel fill reworked. I see it measures out at

Dimensions

: 25.25 x 18.25 x 10.88 in.15 gallons

 

I also found this as a possible tank.  

1949-51 Ford Passenger Polyethylene Fuel Tank 24-1/2" x 22-1/2" x 9-1/2" 17 gallons It would need an angled fill connection to work but is allot more expensive than the other two choices. It is almost an exact match for size the filler is an easy fix with an angled fill and an angled rubber connector hose. Just more money but is probably the best it IMHO.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1949-51-Ford-Passenger-Polyethylene-Fuel-Tank-/170677047843?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27bd251223&vxp=mtr#ht_625wt_934 

 

I still haven't gave up completely on the original which I did find out some interesting problems with. I decided to clean it up after work get the thick asphalt/rubber coating off etc.. I was really surprised at what the previous owner had done on his repair. The split at the seam wasn't the metal he had encased the entire tank in fiberglass and then applied his undercoating to both the top and bottom of the tank. Anyway the pictures tell the story as to what I found. The hole on the seam i likely did getting the fiberglass off. Never underestimate the previous owners work.

Anyway just putting all the options out there for any who follows with the same problem.

 

 

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The fiberglass shell I found. It was stuck fairly tight just split at the seam as shown above.

 

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Found these under rust it had sealer attached so you couldn't see it at first. The one at the seam I probably put there trying to get the fiberglass loose. Also notice the lead patch. There are two others on the tank but seem to be holding.

 

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I still need to clean the rust off the rest of the tank. It smells of gas pretty strong with the fiberglass removed. Letting it air before I go further.

 

Anyway that is where i am.

 

Al

 

 

 

.

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So I guess a quick update as to progress can be done.

Tried to save the old tank even used a very gentle electrolytic rust removal. It worked well took a long time but worked well. So after doing the top I found about 13 total holes and stopped counting. The liner was still there like a balloon but the holes was the last straw. So the tank will be sent to scrap after I get another tank to help setup some angles. On a side note this may be the ticket to clean inside rust out. Fill it with water and washing powder power it up and let it go 14 or 15 hours. Not as abrasive as blasting.

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So I bit the bullet and ordered the 1949 Ford tank. It is the closest dimension wise but not the cheapest. The jeep tank was really calling at about 150 dollars cheaper. The deciding factor for me was the fill tubes. Just felt to do it right  I would have to get it welded to make it work as adapters just didn't look easy. With my welding skills good for brackets only and not wanting to cut on a new tank anyway  I went with the plastic tank pictured below and keep y 17 gallon capacity as well. Should allow for a new angled neck to bolt right on and then an angled hose and its done other than plumbing. So while waiting on that to arrive I have decided to put some new shackles on the leaf springs since the tank is out of the way and the bumpers are off for painting. Which is another story.

 

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Is the hole for the float in the right place on that plastic tank. 

 

On my current gas tank (original), several years ago the son in law brazed a couple of pennies over pinholes

he found in the bottom side of the tank.  Those are still holding today. 

 

I looked thru the catalog of tanks at O'Reilly Auto.........as I recall either a Jeep or Ford item came the closest

to being a match.....but would need some modification....including relocating the filler neck opening.

 

There is the metal rectangular tank from Tanks, Inc which some have used......but it looks nothing like an

original one.  I think they are "ugly" but may use one anyway.

 

I also ran onto an ad for a guy making plastic tanks, but haven't followed up to see what he has.

 

Yes....most old original tanks you find nowadays are shot.  It's too bad one of these places can't just

make one for the old Mopars.   

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Bob

 

The hole in the trunk wont match up with the new tank so it is getting a good cleaning and painted then sealed up. That means the fuel sending unit and pick up tube have to be mounted then the tank put in. I am probably going with a fuel filter shortly after the tank like they are doing in the modern cars. Seems to last longer and keeps it out of the engine compartment. The tank I see most use is for 41 to 48 mopars and is about 6 inches to wide for my 50 Plymouth so that was not even an option. Looks like from 49 up they changed the dimensions allot. You have a 47 so at least they do make one that is a direct bolt in just keep the shiny side up and it wont get seen much. :) ugly or not.

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Anyone have an idea on what holds the upper straps on? I took out the bolt on the end but it seems really stuck. Am I fighting under coating or is there a weld in there I can't find? Just thought I would ask before the big hammer comes out. They are good for the sole at times but not so good for what your hitting.

 

 

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Anyone have an idea on what holds the upper straps on? I took out the bolt on the end but it seems really stuck. Am I fighting under coating or is there a weld in there I can't find? Just thought I would ask before the big hammer comes out. They are good for the sole at times but not so good for what your hitting.

Are you referring to the upper "saddles" that the fit the gas tank on the upper side??

If so, i'd bet big time that they have spot welds to the bottom of the trunk pan. From my experiece, mopar used Many spotwelds in their construction.

If you plan to remove these "saddles" for the new tank, I'd suggest you clean them Very well and locate those spot welds and carefully drill them out first. BFH will only cause a lot of damage.

Best to ya,

Doug

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Doug

 

Yes it would be the saddle. That is my concern is its spot welded. I have wired brushed it but can't see one. Granted with my glasses focal range is critical. I need to find some younger eyes I think. I am hoping I can get the brace off inside the trunk as well, its solid but it won't hurt to clean it up and paint. It is directly above the upper saddles. Thanks

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Doug

 

Yes it would be the saddle. That is my concern is its spot welded. I have wired brushed it but can't see one. Granted with my glasses focal range is critical. I need to find some younger eyes I think. I am hoping I can get the brace off inside the trunk as well, its solid but it won't hurt to clean it up and paint. It is directly above the upper saddles. Thanks

May be best to use as much of the saddle as possible as it helps support the trunk against the weight of 16 gal. of fuel. If the saddle is not big enough, try just cutting off the raised areas of the saddle with a cut off wheel. Install new tank temporially to fiqure out where new tank support strap holes need to be and add floor supports to reinforce the unsupported areas, inside/underside, your choice!

Glasses?? Need mine to read posts!!!

Best to ya,

Doug

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