Flat Head 6 Fuel Question?? & New Pics Of Dash And Trim

[fourleaf]

Gentelman,

                   I was wanting to pic your brains on the fuel i am putting into my 48 p-15, flat head 6. I am putting regular gas in and was wonerding if i needed to put any type of additives in the fuel so i don't ruin the inner componets of the motor? Thanks in advance for your help!

 

 

I have attached some recent pics of the dash,windshield molding, and door with fresh paint. I just finished up the passenger side door last night. I still have to work on the rear window trim's but that will come with some time in between diaper changing my 8 month old little girl and playing Sheriff Woody and Buzz wirth my 4 year old little boy .Taking my time to make sure it is done right. Lots of hand sanding....... 1000grit- 800grit

 

 

 

Thanks everyone and have a blessed day:)

[Dave72dt]

The only internal engine parts that may get ruined from today's gas are the valve seats and it's going to take lots of miles to do so.  With the fewer miles the car will likely get driven as opposed to a daily driver, it shouldn't be a concern.  If you're rebuilding the motor anyway, go ahead and do the hardened seats.  There are rubber parts in the fuel system that don't seem to like the alcohol content in today's gas so some rebuilding of those may need to be done.

[greg g]

These engines came from the factory with hardened valve seats.  Lead substitute is not necessary.

[Merle Coggins]

As I understand it, Chrysler used hardened valve seats on these engines from the early on, so that shouldn't be an issue. The fuel pump diaghram may not last with modern gas, but they're easy to rebuild with a kit from Antique Auto Parts Cellar. Theirs will withstand the harsh ethanol fuel blends.  http://www.maritimedragracing.com/antique_auto_parts_cellar.htm

[fourleaf]

The only internal engine parts that may get ruined from today's gas are the valve seats and it's going to take lots of miles to do so.  With the fewer miles the car will likely get driven as opposed to a daily driver, it shouldn't be a concern.  If you're rebuilding the motor anyway, go ahead and do the hardened seats.  There are rubber parts in the fuel system that don't seem to like the alcohol content in today's gas so some rebuilding of those may need to be done.

 

I am going to try and drive this to and from work maybe twice a week. So about 120 miles maybe a little more. The motor is running real well right now so i have not given much thought to rebuilding it yet. I am still in the process of getting the car road worthy. The car idles fine but has an issue with the generator not charging right. The battery will not go any higher than 6.25 on the ohm reader with rpm's elevated. So i am trying to trouble shoot if it is the voltage reg. or the generator. I will probably wind up getting a rebuild kit for the generator soon. Dave, if i am putting some miles on her what are your suggestions?

[captden29]

Four, I see you live in NC, so gas without ethanol is available. all gogas premium is no ethanol, but I just buy my gas at a nearby station that has regular no ethanol.you can run on any regular gas anyway, as I did before I moved to a state that allowed no ethanol fuel. whenever I leave town I just get regular if I do not know where a no ethanol station is. you can add the ethanol treatment but I do not even know what it does except maybe help disperse any moisture that can collect if gas with ethanol sits in the tank for long periods. you can go on websites for no ethanol that will tell you where it is sold near you. try noethanol.com, but there are others. capt den

[fourleaf]

As I understand it, Chrysler used hardened valve seats on these engines from the early on, so that shouldn't be an issue. The fuel pump diaghram may not last with modern gas, but they're easy to rebuild with a kit from Antique Auto Parts Cellar. Theirs will withstand the harsh ethanol fuel blends.  http://www.maritimedragracing.com/antique_auto_parts_cellar.htm

 

Thanks for the link and i will check into replacing the fuel pump with one that will stand up to the new fuel blends.

[fourleaf]

Four, I see you live in NC, so gas without ethanol is available. all gogas premium is no ethanol, but I just buy my gas at a nearby station that has regular no ethanol.you can run on any regular gas anyway, as I did before I moved to a state that allowed no ethanol fuel. whenever I leave town I just get regular if I do not know where a no ethanol station is. you can add the ethanol treatment but I do not even know what it does except maybe help disperse any moisture that can collect if gas with ethanol sits in the tank for long periods. you can go on websites for no ethanol that will tell you where it is sold near you. try noethanol.com, but there are others. capt den

Thanks Capt. den. I will look in my area!

[Scruffy49]

Regular is fine, these old engines have a dismally low compression ratio. I'd stick with name brand fuels to limit the excess "gunk" that can build up on the valves or for oil passage/pan sludge. When I was driving my 49 back in 93/94 it ran fine on whatever we poured into it.

 

The guy who leases some land from us for soybean production has an OLD L6 powered seeder, it does fine on modern blended fuel. Needs the occasional fuel pump overhaul or float needle replacement but, other than that, no issues.

[TodFitch]

As I understand it, Chrysler used hardened valve seats on these engines from the early on, so that shouldn't be an issue. The fuel pump diaghram may not last with modern gas, but they're easy to rebuild with a kit from Antique Auto Parts Cellar. Theirs will withstand the harsh ethanol fuel blends.  http://www.maritimedragracing.com/antique_auto_parts_cellar.htm

 

Concur with this. All Plymouth L-6 ("flathead") engines from 1933 up have hardened exhaust valve seat inserts from the factory. The only issue with modern gas is additives that are unkind to the old rubber formulations.

 

You mention getting an new fuel pump in one of your posts. I'd really recommend rebuilding your existig pump with a kit from the Antique Auto Parts Cellar. You will know what you have and that it was done right. There have been a few people on this forum who've had issues with new pumps or pumps rebuilt by others with the pivot pin coming loose. Do it yourself and you can be sure that pin is put in right.

[Dave72dt]

I am going to try and drive this to and from work maybe twice a week. So about 120 miles maybe a little more. The motor is running real well right now so i have not given much thought to rebuilding it yet. I am still in the process of getting the car road worthy. The car idles fine but has an issue with the generator not charging right. The battery will not go any higher than 6.25 on the ohm reader with rpm's elevated. So i am trying to trouble shoot if it is the voltage reg. or the generator. I will probably wind up getting a rebuild kit for the generator soon. Dave, if i am putting some miles on her what are your suggestions?

The engine already should have the hardened seats in it as several others have stated.  I was unsure if they did or not and that would have been the only area of concern if they were not.  Since they are hardened, you should be golden.  The fuel pump I would do before making those trips to reduce the possibility of a known problem cropping up far from home.  Regulator probably needs resetting to bring the voltage upn a bit.  If it'l do 6.5 it's working and the regulator is too if it's maintianing it.