TexasPilothouse Posted March 13, 2013 Report Share Posted March 13, 2013 (edited) So I really have no Idea if this is going to affect the ride to much but I hope it works! Almost complete with the front end and I found a pair of air shocks from O'reillys Auto Parts. Had to press a metal sleeve out of one end and modify the size of the rubber hole with my drill. Got one on tonight and hope to have the other one on tomorrow! I'm looking for a little bit lower ride and stance on the truck and thought this may work. My plan is to rob an air tank off one of my old big rigs and install a small 12V air compressor in the truck. When I'm out cruising I'll try to have enough air in them to keep the tires on the ground and when we go to cruise night every month drain the air and drop the truck a few inches???? Took two leafs out of the spring pack and slicked them up a little! If you have any thoughts on how this might work I'm ready for the heat! Will slap a set on the back when I get there soon! Landon Edited March 13, 2013 by TexasPilothouse Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1952B3b23 Posted March 13, 2013 Report Share Posted March 13, 2013 (edited) I dont see why it shouldnt work, my understanding is that the shocks main objective is to dampened vibration and you're still doing this with the air shock. That setup just allows you to adjust the feel of your ride with the air pressure, unlike in a conventional sealed shock. Im interested in hearing about how it feels running down the road since youre still using the leaf springs i wonder how much this will help. In my opinion it cant hurt and it should work to lower the truck a little more when you're at the car shows. How many leaves did you remove from the spring pack? From the pics it looks like you removed quite a few. Also i am going to be rebuilding my front end, i already have new leaf springs (from St. Louis Spring) but i still need to source new shackles and i see from the picture that you have new ones, where did you get them? Im also in need of new U-bolts that hold the i beam front axle to the leaf springs, where did you get those? Thanks in advance and thats a cool idea with the air shocks, -Chris Edited March 13, 2013 by 1952B3b23 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexasPilothouse Posted March 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 13, 2013 How many leaves did you remove from the spring pack? From the pics it looks like you removed quite a few. Also i am going to be rebuilding my front end, i already have new leaf springs (from St. Louis Spring) but i still need to source new shackles and i see from the picture that you have new ones, where did you get them? Im also in need of new U-bolts that hold the i beam front axle to the leaf springs, where did you get those? Thanks in advance and thats a cool idea with the air shocks, -Chris Chris, I removed the second and fifth springs front the bottom. I did not re-arch the springs but I did grind all the old rust off and put a few layers of clear coat on them from a can! I'm pretty sure I purchased the shackles from either Robertsmotorparts.com or Vintagepowerwagons.com. Now the U-Bolts where actually given to me by Jupe Industrial Brake and Spring out of Amarillo, TX. We do a lot of business with these guys and they hooked me up. I took my old U-Bolts to them one day and we went in the back and made some in about 10 minutes. If you would like I could go by there and see what it would cost to make some more but I don't think I'll get another set for free!! Let me know if you need anything else! Landon 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1952B3b23 Posted March 13, 2013 Report Share Posted March 13, 2013 (edited) Landon, The spring packs look good. how much do you think it will lower the truck by doing that, maybe a couple inches? Also do you plan on lowering the rear end? Thanks a bunch for the info. I would be interested in the U-bolts, i also need some for the rear axle as well. If you could go by there and see if they could make some more and for how much i'd really appreciate it. Thanks, -Chris Edited March 13, 2013 by 1952B3b23 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexasPilothouse Posted March 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2013 Chris, I'll try to swing by there soon and see what we can do! I am planning on air shocks on the rear as well. I'm only really wanting a few inches lower and plan to take the overload springs off the rear axle and rob one spring out of the maine leaf pack. My hope is that when I'm out cruising I can have enough air in the shocks to make for a comfortable ride and when we get where we're going to dump the air and lower the whole truck 2-3". I'll see what I can find out and get back to you soon! Landon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1952B3b23 Posted March 14, 2013 Report Share Posted March 14, 2013 I like the idea of the air shocks thats pretty slick. It shouldnt be a big deal to tune the feel of your ride, just increase or decrease air pressure after going for a few cruises and see what you like best. Is the air pressure adjustable from inside the cab like on a big rig? I think a 2-3" drop looks good on these trucks, check out a member here his handle is "pflaming" i really like the way his truck sits and i think the way he lowered it was by removing leaf springs like you're doing. Id like to lower mine a little bit too but im swapping a Cummins 4bt diesel into my truck so i need all the load capacity i can get in the front . Also thanks for checking into thos u-bolts for me, just to confirm your leaf springs are 2-3/4" wide correct? -Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexasPilothouse Posted March 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2013 Yes, the shocks are fully adjustable from inside the cab! The shocks come with the fittings and air line to run to a switch that I will mount in the cab. On the leaf width I'll have to check, no sure! Landon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted March 15, 2013 Report Share Posted March 15, 2013 I only took out the 2nd leaf from the bottom all the way around. I sanded my leafs and coated them with silicone. I have a very soft ride and my truck sits about 2" lower, two leafs . . . But you have the air shocks so you have control. I like my ride, may have to put some weight in the back to hold it down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1952B3b23 Posted March 15, 2013 Report Share Posted March 15, 2013 Yes, the shocks are fully adjustable from inside the cab! The shocks come with the fittings and air line to run to a switch that I will mount in the cab. On the leaf width I'll have to check, no sure! Landon Very cool, im eager to hear how they work out for you. Thanks for checking on the leaf width. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1952B3b23 Posted March 15, 2013 Report Share Posted March 15, 2013 I only took out the 2nd leaf from the bottom all the way around. I sanded my leafs and coated them with silicone. I have a very soft ride and my truck sits about 2" lower, two leafs . . . But you have the air shocks so you have control. I like my ride, may have to put some weight in the back to hold it down. Did your spring packs in the front have 8 or 7 leaves to begin with? My '52 had eight on one side and 7 on the other. Your truck looks good, it helped eliminate the big gap between the top of the tire and the fender. -Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted March 15, 2013 Report Share Posted March 15, 2013 (edited) A picture is worth. . . My truck must have been a city truck because it has fewer leafs in the front and back. These are before and after pictures. I hope they help. When I go through a bump, the rear has an extra bounce before it settles. I am going to experiment with weight in the bed and find a comfortable balance. Then I will weld together a steel box and fill it with metal shavings to the discovered weight and bolt that box under the bed, low and out of the way. Edited March 15, 2013 by pflaming Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merle Coggins Posted March 15, 2013 Report Share Posted March 15, 2013 Paul, Earlier you were running the numbers on gas $ vs. mileage for the BBQ run, and now you're talking about adding more weight to the truck? That will only decrease your mileage. The only only added weight I carry in my 3/4 ton truck is a small tote with cleaning products and a jack. I'm always supprised how well it rides for an old 3/4 ton truck. If you want a car like ride, get busy on your convert. Merle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted March 15, 2013 Report Share Posted March 15, 2013 or..................buy a El Gaweeno... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Balazs Posted March 15, 2013 Report Share Posted March 15, 2013 Paul; A bit of rear end bounce is pretty typical of most older short bed / short wheel base trucks. Adding some weight in back will lessen it. Might effect the gas mileage.....but I don't think adding a couple of hundred pounds is going to have much negative effect on your gas mileage. It was never really a measurable amount on the 3 short bed trucks I have owned. Longer wheelbase trucks like the 3/4 ton (116") seem to generally have a smoother ride - less rear end bounce- especially at speed on a freeway. Can't wait to find out how mine does. Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted March 15, 2013 Report Share Posted March 15, 2013 Paul, Earlier you were running the numbers on gas $ vs. mileage for the BBQ run, and now you're talking about adding more weight to the truck? That will only decrease your mileage. The only only added weight I carry in my 3/4 ton truck is a small tote with cleaning products and a jack. I'm always supprised how well it rides for an old 3/4 ton truck. If you want a car like ride, get busy on your convert. Merle Merle; I wouldent worry too much. How much can a box of metal shavings weigh? http://www.higdonphoto.com/Metal%20Shavings.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HanksB3B Posted March 15, 2013 Report Share Posted March 15, 2013 Don't mean to turn the thread upside down but when are you and what are you going to paint your frame with? Nice workmanship on your springs and axles! Hank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merle Coggins Posted March 15, 2013 Report Share Posted March 15, 2013 Merle; I wouldent worry too much. How much can a box of metal shavings weigh? http://www.higdonphoto.com/Metal%20Shavings.jpg Probably a bit more than a box of donut holes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexasPilothouse Posted March 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2013 Don't mean to turn the thread upside down but when are you and what are you going to paint your frame with? Nice workmanship on your springs and axles! Hank Hank, First off, thanks! I actually don't plan on painting the frame! I know I may regret it but the look I'm going for doesn't really require the frame to be painted. What I'm doing is completely going through the suspension/axles front and back, full rebuild on engine, complete interior clean up with gauge restoration (Thanks Keven), new glass, repainted wheels with new white walls, 12v upgrade, lights, brakes, etc. I really like patina look on old trucks and that's what I'm going for with all new guts! This has been a big project for me cause it's my first truck rebuild plus finding the time between raising a 2 year old and soon have another one on the ground! Motorcycles and four-wheelers growing up were how I learned to tinker and build! Should I consider painting the frame? The truck will always be just a cruiser and parked in a shop! Landon Here's a few pictures of the truck when I found it, headed home and in the garage! I'm keeping the stacks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted March 15, 2013 Report Share Posted March 15, 2013 Go slow when you go for the original paint. I was much too agressive but at first I was sanding to PAINT. I started with pure lacquer thinner. I did a section at a time, then 800 grit wet and dry got me my best results. Get a GOOD respirator because you are going to get DIRTY. Keep us informed, that will be a real looker when you get done, that red will literally pop, ain't no paint around like that paint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HanksB3B Posted March 16, 2013 Report Share Posted March 16, 2013 (edited) I'd paint the frame but like Paul you truck has a lot of character and for you Patina Guys it looks like a great candidate. Rust is the enemy and like no one really notices my wire brush work and Por-15 (can be brushed on) frame on what Jeff calls "my fancy paint job" paint job truck, no one will notice that Patina Red. Tex or whatever you call him/her that your frame is painted. But Dude it's right there down to frame off! It's your truck and I'm good with whatever you decide... Lets Vote Guys! All the best, Hank Edited March 16, 2013 by HanksB3B Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Balazs Posted March 16, 2013 Report Share Posted March 16, 2013 Landon; Oh man I love that front grill guard! Your truck has a ton of character. Whatever you end up doing it is sure to be a very cool ride. My vote? Do what suits you. Jeff Hank??? You know that gleaming painted frame of yours would show through like crazy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HanksB3B Posted March 16, 2013 Report Share Posted March 16, 2013 Jeff, now It' has dulled to a satin black looks much tamer (I think you'd give it your stamp of approval). Tex (you don't mind me calling that for now do you?) the other "biggie" to be considered now is new brake lines. There is no better time. Then, there is the condition of the master cylinder. Slave cylinders can happen any time but it sure is more convenient and best practice to get the brake system completely done at this stage. If you want, send me your wife's email It'll go much better for you if I do the explaining that the kids won't be eating as well for a few months. Take it slow, Hank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexasPilothouse Posted March 16, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2013 Oh man I love that front grill guard! Your truck has a ton of character. Whatever you end up doing it is sure to be a very cool ride. My vote? Do what suits you. Jeff, The first time I saw this truck I knew I had to own it. The grill guard, paint, exhaust stacks, spot light and everything else about the truck caught my eye and fell in love with her! I've decided to just leave the frame the way it is and keep her clean the best I can underneath. Hank, Hammer down on the "Tex", I love it! Now I've read a lot about the old drum brakes on here and since I stayed with em they are getting full attention! New shoes, springs, lines, wheel cylinders, master cylinders, turned drums, everything! I'm starting on the back axle and suspension this week and as soon as that get finished the brakes will be next! I'll do that cause maybe you have a little more experience in dealing with a wife who has to choose to either feed the kids this month or let her husband spend all his money on a pile of parts in the garage!! Not really, she's and the little guy always come first! It's a slow process but it's starting to come together now after a couple years. I'm actually trying to get as much done on it before September cause we will have another little monster hitting the ground! I really want to get this thing finished as soon as I can but man I've figured out it just takes time! Landon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted March 16, 2013 Report Share Posted March 16, 2013 (edited) Landon, before you spend all that money on OE brakes, do the research, Old Daddy's kit and a rear axle from a 97 Cherokee is LESS money. I would much rather change out that rear axle (eight nuts, U-joint, attach the brake line) than do a brake job. Front the same,remove the old brakes, bolt on Old Daddy's adaptor plates, rotors and calipers and your done! The only catchy part is the master cylinder. I used the 97 MC from the Cherokee I got the rear axle from and NEW LINES. Edited March 16, 2013 by pflaming Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HanksB3B Posted March 16, 2013 Report Share Posted March 16, 2013 ^^^very good advice^^^ (that and a T5) If I had only known back then. The P15-D24 Forum, ingenious imagination, craftsmanship and makedomanship of it's members is what I like the most about it. Hank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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