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20 hours ago, Dave72dt said:

What's the plans for clearing the doors when rolling the fenders and hood up?

I made a wood (shocking) template and figured out the pivot point last night to be pretty much at the base of the fender/grill intersection.  This location clears in a pivot arc the cab cowl area.  As I drop the pivot point the better it gets.  so if I do 1" lower things get real easy and the pivot will look like a spring shackle from the front if you look under the bumper far enough.   I'm really happy about that as I was pondering how to slide forward and then tilt the nose originally.20210118_174223.jpg.33451bf7b10e52f74c6b25237a2a62b9.jpg

 

I also plan on tubing here to build some new hinges for the butterfly wings as well and lose the original hinge (paint damage and ease of use).  I also am pondering with this change how to "seal" the butterfly wings with the center section to keep rain/etc. out of the top of the engine bay.20210118_174501.jpg.5bff63f94ab4b19dd4ee86a8e594bbae.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

Weekend progress.  Hoping this coming week and weekend it will actually be tilting.  

 

BTW first picture of my early orbit day present.  I will tell you this, if you buy a cheap helmet you will fight welds.  This new helmet is like seeing for the first time (I'd imagine).  I can see the area prior to welding, during welding and the puddle is so obvious (now).  Hard to believe I made good welds on my old el cheapo helmet after using this.  It's like welding suddenly got WAY easier!

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18 minutes ago, Merle Coggins said:

Looks good, but how will it work with a bumper on the front? Attach the bumper to the hood framework? 

 

yep

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Got the hood center section mounts and mounted yesterday (slow day).

 

 

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To answer the question of the rears of the fenders vibrating/moving around:  I will create some kind of, yet to be determined, keepers if needed.  The frame structure I built for the tilt front is pretty rigid and keeps things in place pretty well thus far.  Once things are further along I'll poke at it I need to retain it even more.

 

 

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A couple of thoughts, maybe something as simple as a dzus fastener would do the trick. Or possibly a Triumph Spitfire hood latch, but they are much larger. 
Don’t know what would be needed to make either of them work. 
I'm absolutely enjoying your progress and the pic’s.
 

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I think I'd use a modern vehicle's hood safety latch  with cable or mechanical release so it could remain hidden and out of sight or go back a few years and use a hood latch from a car from the fifties.  Aftermarket bearclaw styles, again with cable or mechanical release.  If it needed to be visible, those shiny, stainless steel latches used on semis would look good although the pockets needed to make them flush mounted would have to be made.

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I plan on a double screw drive to run the tilt. This serves several purposes:  it creates the tilt stop point AND will hold the front DOWN/locked.  I will make a guide/hard close stop on both sides as well.  From my local car club guys this seems to be enough in both directions.  

 

While I wait for my other goodies to show up I'm working on getting the rest of the front clip happy with a bumper, and hopefully the butterflies on as well.  It DOES continue to get heavier, but the screw drives do come in different load ranges so I should be good.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Screw drives should work well.   Depending on where you have the battery placed, external access to battery power would be a plus.  You could also adapt a hydraulic system if you needed for lift capacity.

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7 hours ago, Dave72dt said:

Screw drives should work well.   Depending on where you have the battery placed, external access to battery power would be a plus.  You could also adapt a hydraulic system if you needed for lift capacity.

 

Batteries might live in one of my "saddle tanks", other one for storage.

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Bumper on.

 

One thing I noticed is the bumper/front horn frames must be different from B1/2 to B3/4.  I used a B1/2 bumper and B3/4 frame horns (or was it the other way around...can't remember anymore  :)  )and the holes don't match up....I had to drill new holes for a second top hole and bottom hole.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

a little door work...one door now sits "right".  Just needs some sill build up (more on that in the future) and a new inner skin for major stuff.

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