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Started Tear Down, Finally...


Scruffy49

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Got the hood, fenders, inner fenders, core support, and front panel off. First time in 2 years I've done more than drag the truck around with one of the tractors.

 

Had to pry the front drums off, one before I moved 2 years ago, the other one today. Wheel cylinders are plugged solid, couldn't back anything off. I had forgotten that the drums had been turned, new shoes, bearings and seals the last time it was apart.

 

A few broken bolts (no surprise), a few unexpected cracks in the cab corners.

 

The current engine is locked up tight, again. Getting ready to yank it out for the 230. Will keep the 218 as a buildable core.

 

Heading towards ev ening, need to get the front sheetmetal under cover for the night, 90% chance of rain tonight/tomorrow.

 

Feels good to finally take the time to do something with it.

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Anybody have a pic of their front axle handy? Mine doesn't look right... tie rod is straight as can be, drag link has a small curve to it, axle has a bow that looks like it is intentional to clear the oil pan... but since my uncle did crash the thing back in the late 50s... If I need a Speedway Motors tube axle I'd like to start setting money aside now.

 

Surprisingly good shape so far for a 64 year old truck that was used as a truck. Springs are okay (bushings and shackles appear to be shot), frame is straight, cab mounts are nice and solid. Fuel tank stinks but it isn't leaking. Rear axle and driveshaft are fine other than the expected pinion seal leak. Transmission is leak free and it seems to move through the gears alright (3 on the floor). Parking brake is in good shape. Wheels are all safe to reuse (had them checked).

 

If my 230 checks out usable I shouldn't have too much trouble making her a driver again. It's been sitting a couple years, so... with any luck a light in-frame overhaul should get that engine running again. The 218 is just a core.

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The drag link picture....

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Here are some pictures I have. The drag link should be bend on passenger side, axle has a bow, and the tie rod should be straight.  I don't directly have on of the tie rod, but it is dead straight. Hope these help.

post-3516-0-71549400-1361760496_thumb.jpg

post-3516-0-72816100-1361760538_thumb.jpg

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I took out one, the second from the bottom, from all four springs. I sanded each leaf and sprayed it with silicone (teflon) I did not paint them. I would not take any more out. The truck rides soft but not spongy and it drives straight down the road. I did't replace any shackles or tie rod ends, but I did put in new king pins and bushings. I had a machine shop do that.

My truck had five leaves in the rear and seven in the front. Evidently springs could be specified.

Good luck and welcome.

Edited by pflaming
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be glad you didn't have to scratch your head over the axel bend like I did because someone put a car oil pan in over the years and it was hitting the axle (nod to Ed for noticing that last year for me)!

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be glad you didn't have to scratch your head over the axel bend like I did because someone put a car oil pan in over the years and it was hitting the axle (nod to Ed for noticing that last year for me)!

Glad Im no the only one that some one did that to. Now Im wonderin if its just the wrong pan on my truck, or what motor I have in there.

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Glad Im no the only one that some one did that to. Now Im wonderin if its just the wrong pan on my truck, or what motor I have in there.

motor really doesn't matter.  The trucks should have a "T" on the engine serial number.  I know my engine was a car engine at one point from several things that were going on it it once we put it back together beyond the wrong pan.  I know FEF was in an accident at one point early in his life from several factors as well, hence the replaced engine I'm guessing).  You can swap the pan and sump lifter and be good to go regardless if its a truck or car engine.

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Mine has a car block, truck pan and truck head. My to be refreshed and swapped in 230 has a car pan and dipstick (in the block). Between the 2 I might be able to make a running engine... if not I know where a good 413/727 combo is sitting (they'll go in the 69, which would donate its 318/727 to the 49).

 

P I've been here a couple years or so, but I've had the truck since 79 or 81, kind of hard for a little kid to do anything with them, I was either 7 or 9 when my grandfather handed me the keys. He died in 84, I got it running in 94, joined the Navy, got it to fire off in 2004 (breaking a bunch of rings). Kind of pushed it aside in favor of other projects. Now redoing it, the Sweptline and 4 motorcycles at the same time. None of them takes precedence over the others. No hurry on any of them.

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Comparisons are often helpful. Here are deminsions of my truck after taking out one leaf all around.

Top of front stock bumper = 18 3/4" ;  bottom edge of bed cross member = 19" ;  Top of the running boards = 15"

pflaming: 7 leaves = 18 3/4                                 4 leaves = 19"                                             Top of boards = 15"

 

 

 

 

Both running boards are the same height so my truck is very close to level.  I now have six leaves up front and 4 leaves in the rear.

 

I do NOT have any overloads. I am not sure what the original measurements were, but I think the front bumper (TOB) was 21".

If others will measure your trucks in the same area and give the number of leaves, I will add them to this list.

Edited by pflaming
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My plan is to pull the bottom 2 leaves. I'm shooting for it to sit a couple inches closer to the ground than your avatar pic. Mid to late 1950s style static drop low rider. Mostly just an attention getter for our pecan and produce farm on market days, the 69 Sweptline is the haul truck (it has one ton add a leaf springs in the rear, with factory camper special packs on all 4 corners). At most the 49 will be toting my 63 Honda Scrambler track bike and a couple coolers and chairs, maybe my 650 bar hopper... 

 

The 49 had a rough life hauling firewood and cattle from 49 until Grandpa retired it to the barn in 1974. Not as much body damage as would be expected, but there is manure IN the spring perches still... Mixed with grease, and when I chip that solidified mess off the metal under it is perfect.

 

I have 14, 15 and 16 inch wheels for it, all have been test fit, only need to swap to modern lug stud and nut combos to run the 14 inch alloys... but since the 16 inchers have a set of wide whites and my original hub caps, adding a leaf back in to run them isn't a big deal.

Edited by Scruffy49
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