Brakes locking up, have checked most the "check first" things

[Young Ed]

You do realize that there isn't a 6th digit and that the mileage is more likely 102800 or possibly even 202800? I don't think a 2800 mile car would have that much wear to the dash or a redone interior. Don't let it worry you though. Fix it up and you'll still have just as much fun.

[55 Fargo]

Meant pics of the outside of car. When was the interior re-done? Hope you resolve your brake issues.....

[d.dunavan]

Ok WOW embarrassing, did not even notice the missing digit. Although like you said, once it is fixed up I know it will be a bunch of fun. I can't get any good pics of the outside right now due to the weather and the fact that my garage is full. It needs to run this weekend any way so I will take some then. I would really like opinions on condition of the car just because my opinion is quite inexperienced and probably bias.

 

D.

[48mirage]

This is probably not the problem but I read in the lastest newsletter from RockAuto under the Blunders column about a fellow that was having a problem with one of the rear brakes locking up and after several attempts gave up on it.  It wasn't until the tech, where he got his 3rd inspection sticker, showed him that the shoes on that brake had been installed wrong.  The leading shoe was in the trailing position and vice versa. 

[Niel Hoback]

You are right, that is probably not the problem.

[Tom Skinner]

Look at the arrows on the anchor bolts are they pointed in the right direction?

There is also an adjustment screw at the base of the brake pedal (below the floor board)

they may have messed with that would have the same symptom (brake locking up)?

You'll find it I'm sure it will just take some patience. Also check all brake return springs?

[P15-D24]

Just one tip, Take your new brake shoes and place them inside the drum. Do they fit the inside radius with no gaps?

 

[d.dunavan]

Plan for today (if I can get approval from home front 6):

 

Pull MC and all hard lines to include inside front drums, who knows even though I can see the relief hole maybe there will be something that I cant see from the top. Inspect hard lines to see if they are worth trying to possibly flush them or just scrap and get new lines when I get back. If they are still good can I flush them without being installed on the car and if so how? When I was under the car last weekend the backs of the drums didn't have any leaks that I could see. I also took off the driver side front drum and the pistons looked really good but the hard lines I dont think were looking that happy. I look at this as a win win situation for me. 1. I get to work on the Plymouth (favorite thing to do) 2. I may learn something 3. get part of the job done 4. Who knows I might fix something. I plan to take a massive amount of pictures before I take stuff apart because I am just not the brightest tool in the knife drawer. If anyone thinks I am just jumping in the deep end too quick with this let me know please before I do something kinda dumb. So, thanks to everyone yet again for the info.

 

D.

[bamfordsgarage]

A suggestion before you yank a whole bunch of stuff out at once... pictures help a lot but it is still remarkably easy (for me anyway) to forget exactly how things go back together.

 

Consider doing only one or two things at a time. Replace one hard line, then another etc. Rebuild your MC. Do one rear wheel at a time, leaving the other alone as your re-assembly guide. Etc. etc.

[d.dunavan]

That is a great suggestion, thank you. You are more than likely right too because I tend not to be the most organized person in the world. My concern is when I did finally find the relief port inside the MC the entire larger hole that leads to the smaller hole was filled with rust. I am thinking that as the system has been run it has slowly clogged up one or more lines I am just not sure how to figure out what line. Also after reading for the last two weeks straight I realized that I have no idea what brake fluid was put in so in my mind that means take it back to ground level and build from there. As far as the brake shoes and springs inside the drum I will definitely do one side at a time so I can Air-Force check myself.

 

D.

[Alshere59]

This link will give you alot of brake info. etc and may help you get an idea what to start with. Notice the tools used for adjustment as well.

So if comparing one side to the other is an "Air force check" how is it done in the Army?

 

http://mopar.pairserver.com/p15d24ph_forum/index.php?/page/p15d24/tech/brakes.html

 

Al

USAF Retired

[d.dunavan]

Thanks for the link, In the Army we just put it back together and if there are parts left over then we must be smarter than the person who designed it.

[d.dunavan]

Ok so turns out that my first plan was way too ambitious. On the up side I did get the MC off today, on the down side it took me forever and I am sure that all the while the MC was taunting me and calling me names. So question on that, is the brake pedal hinge pin (not sure if that is correct name) attached to the MC and if so is the snap ring on that side just for fools like me? After I finally got the last word in with the MC I took some exterior pics. I would like opinions on overall condition.

 

Thanks, 

 

D.

[55 Fargo]

Thats a real nice straight car you have there. Might be able to polish that paint back to a shine too, and even the chrome....

Here is m toy 47 Chrysler, that was a real piece of crap, when i got her. Took these pics 3 days ago, as you can tell we get wicked alaskan type winters here.

Edited January 27, 2013 by 47MoparakaRockwood

[Don Coatney]

Best to remove the master cylinder and pedals as a unit. Is there a removable floor panel in your car. My P-15 has a removable panel that makes master cylinder removable much easier.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[d.dunavan]

Don,

 

The MC that I pulled off today only had the brake pedal attached to it, guessing because yours on the floor mine on the column. After I re-build the MC I know that installing it back in the car should be a snap now that I know about that panel. My wife got quite a kick out of that by the way. 

 

D.

[deathbound]

Another idea when working on your car....buy a box of ziplock bags and a sharpie, take your time & label EVERYTHING. BTW, your car looks very nice. Check the MC bore & if there's any pitting, it should be resleeved......stainless steel is the way to go, though more $$.....same with the wheel cylinders when you get to that point.

[d.dunavan]

I completely agree with that, I bag and tag everything. Thanks to everyone on the compliments on the car if it didn't have a couple of rust spots through the paint I would just clear the car and leave the patina because I like the way it looks. The trim pieces are going to have to come off because they are pretty dinged up. I am going to attach some pics of rust and what I think may be a wear spot in the passenger side. Quick question, the MC is pretty grimed up from grease and dust and gunk so what would the the best way to clean it if the inside is worth saving? 

 

D.

[Don Coatney]

Don,

 

The MC that I pulled off today only had the brake pedal attached to it, guessing because yours on the floor mine on the column. After I re-build the MC I know that installing it back in the car should be a snap now that I know about that panel. My wife got quite a kick out of that by the way. 

 

D.

 

 

If the clutch pedal in your car does not mount to the master cylinder then what does it mount to? The transmission I have in my car is not directly connected to the clutch pedal mount so floor shift or column shift has no bearing on how the clutch pedal mounts.

[d.dunavan]

Don, 

 

I can't seem to remember now, but when I get home tonight I will take a look and see if I can get a pic. I will also take some of the MC as well.

 

D.

[d.dunavan]

Don,

 

A day late but here are some pictures of where the clutch attaches. I also found some rust on the passenger floor and the panel for the drivers floor but I don't think it's that bad. This was my first good look at the way the years of grime have stuck to the grease under there. 

 

D.

[d.dunavan]

Hello All,

 

I know that it has been a while but I finally got the time and parts to get this rebuild done. I am going to post some pics of the inside of the cylinder and the finished rebuild. Glad to get this moving and make some progress on the car.

 

D.

[d.dunavan]

Also while I am thinking about it, is there a torque on the end plug? It just seems odd to me that there would be no torque given for it. When i fill it up is there a way to know if i didn't put something in the right place or direction immediately? I ask because I think that the valve in facing the correct direction but not sure. Looking forward to tomorrow with all of the issues i am hearing about bleeding the brakes, pretty sure that I have a good handle on it though and with the help of my wife should have no issues. I say that but I know how my luck goes, will probably spend the next two months trying to get them right.

 

D. 

[d.dunavan]

Ok, so MC is in and lines are bled, pedal feel was good at first but has mushed out some so I am going to re-bleed. While doing a minor adjustment on the brakes I noticed that the passenger rear adjustment cams kept spinning and the driver rear has a bad drag on it. So I guess the next thing is to get the puller and go after the adjustments in the back and see what happens.

 

D.

[Joe Flanagan]

I don't believe there is a torque specification for the end plug. Just get it so it doesn't leak. The best way to get the internal parts right is to photograph how it came apart. OR check out the exploded diagram in the manual. You should be able to tell from that which way everything faces and what order the pieces go in.