RobertKB Posted December 16, 2012 Report Posted December 16, 2012 (edited) Looks like fun and glad to see you have already started on the restoration process! I agree about the silver square. Since I started working on my '51 Dodge business coupe, I have barely watched TV. Incidentally, you will need to start looking for another temperature gauge as yours will not work with the capillary tube cut off. Otherwise the gauges and speedometer look pretty good. There should be a little screw-in holder full of an absobent material on the back of the speedo (I can see it in the third picture). Soak this really well with a light oil and maybe even put a bit of oil where the tube screws in. This helps to lubricate your speedometer really well. The speedo in my '53 Plymouth started squealing about a year ago and I thought it had gone south. After proper lubrication, it is working perfectly. Edited December 16, 2012 by RobertKB Add info Quote
pflaming Posted December 16, 2012 Author Report Posted December 16, 2012 The plastic center piece is full of weather cracks. Is there a way to make them less visable? If one very carefully paints the back side, I wonder if the newly painted areas would overshadow the cracks. On this build, every time I remove something, it will be restored, bolts, screws, et al, then reassembled. I'm not going to spend gobs of time looking for the proper bolts, screws, etc. AND I'm going to do all the time consuming low cost assemblies first. That means body work before chassis work. I've been seaching for a door and have called a number of possible sources. Two observations: most are amazed that I found a convertible in this condition and secondly rare/scarce parts for scarce vechicals puts the buyer in the previleged position. There will likely be more doors then buyers so I am going to be tight with my $$$ on that item. Quote
RobertKB Posted December 16, 2012 Report Posted December 16, 2012 Your plastic is not worth saving. Look for a better insert on ebay or swapmeets and then do the painting on it. Quite often the silver part fairs better than the other paint. They can turn out nicely if you take your time. My platic insert was missing all the paint except the nice silver and I repainted mine and I think it turned out OK. Those are the correct colours. Quote
Frank Elder Posted December 16, 2012 Report Posted December 16, 2012 Moores salvage SD.......might have what you want. Quote
pflaming Posted December 16, 2012 Author Report Posted December 16, 2012 Thank you, thank you! I'm curious about the two metaphoric human figures. Anyone know what they might represent? This week I've got to get the truck driveable and use it. Very little to do: Door windows (in the closet), final electrical check off, weld up the exhaust pipe and muffler, shocks (on the fender). Then DMV work through AAA. Someone said it had to be weighed for DMV, is that true. Frankie: I'm going to paint it Boston Red Sox colors: light blue body, dark blue seat covers with red accent and black or dark blue top. I did think about burnt orange out of respect for a Omahan friend. Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted December 16, 2012 Report Posted December 16, 2012 they represent the Indians presenting ears of corn to the Pilgrims.. Quote
pflaming Posted December 18, 2012 Author Report Posted December 18, 2012 I'm researching for later work. What have others done with seat frames and springs. Mine are complelte by very rusty. There are small springs between the larger 'springs' which I will replace. Can these be bead blasted without destroying them. Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted December 18, 2012 Report Posted December 18, 2012 these are a spring steel..tempered metal...once they are rusted/pitted to a certain degree..their usefulness is about shot...they are designed to be flexible..rust pits inhibits this and will allow breakage..as the seat is just that, a seat, sourcing one from a parts car with a lid would be quick and easy and probably painless to the wallet considering the peace of mind you gonna have knowing its condition, the odds are you can find one with good spring covers and a substantian amount of original padding..be a big step forward in labor saved not havint to futz with the rusted relic of the bare exposed springs.. Quote
austinsailor Posted December 19, 2012 Report Posted December 19, 2012 I looked for a new hood emblem for a while. Mitchel Motors (Now FMMopar on eBay I think) has the pair ( metal and plastic) nos for about $700. No way! I found many in poor condition, one day my eBay saved search notified me of one, it looked great. $80. plastic like new, metal unpitted, but needs new chrome. Save a search for "53 plymouth hood" One may pop up again. Mine had been posted for 3 hours, I jumped on the buy it now. As to seat springs, on my b1b, they were rusty, but not falling apart. Pressure washing got them in acceptable shape. Painted them and they are fine. My upholster told me not to sandblast them, they'd lose the spring. I think he is wrong. As long as you go easy, from a little distance you should be fine. People talk about getting things too hot sandblasting (usually talking about sheet metal) but it's really the peening that does it. Those are my opinions, yours may vary. Genei Quote
pflaming Posted December 19, 2012 Author Report Posted December 19, 2012 I have access to a steam/pressure/sand blaster. I thought I might put a metal 'wall' behind the springs and the seat frame and give them a good cleaning. The steam would never heat metal but it should dissolve old rust / rust particles. Then a quick coat of etching primer and a light coat of paint. I like the 'continuation' type of thread on a project because it keeps all the information in one place. I'm going to begin sub titles like for this one 'Seats'. Maybe that will help others in search situations. I appreciate the interest and suggestions, none go unnoticed. Question: This car, though scarce, is probably not rare. Would I depreciate the value if I dropped in an identical engine and not rebuild this one? I haven't opened up this engine so I have no clue what I have, but I am curious. Quote
54Illinois Posted December 19, 2012 Report Posted December 19, 2012 Identical meaning the same year code? If so, who would know? Guess it depends on how it was VIN'ed out. Quote
falconvan Posted December 19, 2012 Report Posted December 19, 2012 Question: This car, though scarce, is probably not rare. Would I depreciate the value if I dropped in an identical engine and not rebuild this one? I haven't opened up this engine so I have no clue what I have, but I am curious. I dont know why but the old Mopars just dont seem to have much of a resale value compared to the Chevys and Fords of the 40s and 50s. Personally, i like it because you get nicer project cars for less money. Realistically you'll probably have more money in the car than you would ever get back out of it if you were to sell. If you want to keep the flattie, you should be able to pick up a good running used one for under $500. I sold my last one for $150 and believe me, there was not a line out the door of people who wanted it. Take the original one and stick it in the back of your garage, if you ever do sell the car you can always give the buyer the original engine with it if they want it. Quote
54Illinois Posted December 19, 2012 Report Posted December 19, 2012 Question: This car, though scarce, is probably not rare. Would I depreciate the value if I dropped in an identical engine and not rebuild this one? I haven't opened up this engine so I have no clue what I have, but I am curious. I dont know why but the old Mopars just dont seem to have much of a resale value compared to the Chevys and Fords of the 40s and 50s. Personally, i like it because you get nicer project cars for less money. Realistically you'll probably have more money in the car than you would ever get back out of it if you were to sell. If you want to keep the flattie, you should be able to pick up a good running used one for under $500. I sold my last one for $150 and believe me, there was not a line out the door of people who wanted it. Take the original one and stick it in the back of your garage, if you ever do sell the car you can always give the buyer the original engine with it if they want it. So true! Good advice as well! Quote
Young Ed Posted December 19, 2012 Report Posted December 19, 2012 Yes but keep in mind he's got a hydrive transmission that shares the oil with the engine. In order to retain that transmission he would need a block that is setup for it. Quote
falconvan Posted December 19, 2012 Report Posted December 19, 2012 Good point, Ed. I didnt know that; is that a dedicated engine block for the Hydrive setup? Quote
RobertKB Posted December 19, 2012 Report Posted December 19, 2012 I personally like having the original engine with a car if it is available. No real reason for it but personal preference. I have two cars with good running truck engines in them but no one would really know the difference unless I told them. One had no engine when I got the car, the other was badly damaged. My '53 Plymouth has the original engine. Only work done on it was a ring job and lapping valves about 25,000 miles ago. The '51 Dodge business coupe I am working on has the original engine and I will be doing a rebuild on it even though I have a good flathead sitting in my garage that I keep as a spare in case something disastrous happens to one of the engines in my cars. Just my two cents worth for what it's worth and it may not be worth much. As an aside, won't be able to use that expression much in the future as the penny is going to be taken out of circulation in Canada on February 1. The nickel will be the lowest value coin. This will be true for any cash transactions but electronic transactions will still be to the nearest cent. Cash transactions will be rounded to the closest nickel. Makes sense as the penny costs more to make than it is worth. Quote
Don Coatney Posted December 19, 2012 Report Posted December 19, 2012 As an aside, won't be able to use that expression much in the future as the penny is going to be taken out of circulation in Canada on February 1. The nickel will be the lowest value coin. This will be true for any cash transactions but electronic transactions will still be to the nearest cent. Cash transactions will be rounded to the closest nickel. Makes sense as the penny costs more to make than it is worth. Mark my words, the day will come when the hundred dollar bill will be the lowest value note and this will happen in the not so distant future. As it is now a tank of gas is close to a C-note as is a trip to the grocery, a new pair of slacks, etc. This will not happen in our lifetine but it could happen in the lifetime of our grandkids. When I was 10 years old a Christmas gift of two bucks was a lot. Today the average ten year old would be insulted with any thing less than a Franklin. Quote
falconvan Posted December 19, 2012 Report Posted December 19, 2012 Mark my words, the day will come when the hundred dollar bill will be the lowest value note and this will happen in the not so distant future. As it is now a tank of gas is close to a C-note as is a trip to the grocery, a new pair of slacks, etc. This will not happen in our lifetine but it could happen in the lifetime of our grandkids. When I was 10 years old a Christmas gift of two bucks was a lot. Today the average ten year old would be insulted with any thing less than a Franklin. You're right, Don. Not just Christmas, either. My daughter was telling me the toothfairy gave my 5 year old grandson $20 for losing a tooth! I gave serious thought to going out to the shop and knocking all my teeth out for some extra car money! Quote
Don Coatney Posted December 19, 2012 Report Posted December 19, 2012 You're right, Don. Not just Christmas, either. My daughter was telling me the toothfairy gave my 5 year old grandson $20 for losing a tooth! I gave serious thought to going out to the shop and knocking all my teeth out for some extra car money! Good idea. Look at the money you will save by not buying a teeth brush. Keep just one tooth and you can get buy with a tooth brush. Quote
falconvan Posted December 19, 2012 Report Posted December 19, 2012 Ya, I think I could make it through a steak with one chopper! Quote
Andydodge Posted December 19, 2012 Report Posted December 19, 2012 A good way to dissolve rust is by using molasses, a byproduct of sugar refining....its used as a feed supplement I think for cattle.......anyway get a 40gallon drum and soak the rusty parts, it removes the rust in a week or two with no harm at all to the metal, I have a mate over here who uses it ........nice car btw, regards, andyd Quote
pflaming Posted December 19, 2012 Author Report Posted December 19, 2012 Would molasses be better than diesel fuel or coca cola? Quote
pflaming Posted December 20, 2012 Author Report Posted December 20, 2012 (edited) I was reviewing Mordor's build thread and drooled over his 54 Savoy dash find. Mine will take a bit of work. Question to Mordor: How does that horizontal chrome decor piece come loose. Is it held on by clips? ED: Yes on the visors. I will take them off very carefully, very unique mounts. I soaked the top release mechanism and it opened nicely. It appears they chromed those assemblies, good idea. I was concerned about those inner workings and all is well. I would be very interesed in that dash, even just the shell. Edited December 20, 2012 by pflaming Quote
Young Ed Posted December 20, 2012 Report Posted December 20, 2012 Be carefull with those visors. They are convertible only! I'll try and remember to ask Dad if the dash from the 53 is still floating around somewhere. Quote
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