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Brand new vacuum advance!


JIPJOBXX

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Well I finally broke the piggy bank and bought a new vacuum advance unit for the old Dodge. It's suppose to show up today and it will be interesting to see what difference it will make in the old time machine. Hagen automotive has them if your interested and cost around 60 dollars. I know mine has leaked for quit a while and so the ignition was quit working up to par and of course the vacuum that was created by the engine was just sucking in air. Will let you guys know what difference it will make.

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Well I mentioned in another thread that I think I have a gremlin in my car well it struck again!!!!!!!! This time when I got my new vacuum advance who ever put it together managed to put the operating bar that goes from the bellow inside the vacuum advance 180 degrees out and on the vacuum advance there is a slight bend in the sheet metal bracket where its suppose to fit onto the distributor well that is also 180 degrees out. Its kind of hard to explain this area where the vacuum advance bolts on but if you have ever rebuilt your distributor you might know what I mean. Well back in the box it goes with one of my two old vacuum advance units to get them a first hand idea about why the one they sent me would never work. When I ordered this unit they were emphatic about the numbers on the side of distributor and I made sure they were given the right ones. So another day another dollar and that gremlin I have in my car well its still hanging around me. :)

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They used four different distributors and you have to buy parts by distributor number of the distributor as the points mount as a mirror image in one distributor and the rotors and caps are different and will not interchange between distributors.

The numbers should be as listed below.

IAT 4003

IAP 4103 A-1

IGS 4207 B-1

IAP 4101 A-1

Your distributor should have one of the four numbers on the identification plate riveted to the body of the distributor and that is the number you use to order your points, rotor, and cap.

Edited by james curl
add model numbers
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If I turn the bracket than it will hit the condenser. The model number is IGS-4203B-1 and that is what I ordered. As far as the mouse eating part of my distributor well it was owned by a farmer and maybe the barn mice got to it!

Ok here is the information that you need to find a VC unit

Chrysler 41-48

Des 41-48

Dod 41-50

Dod Trk 41-47

Fargo 42-47

Hudson 48-50

Nash 42-48

Ply 41-50

Ply Canadian 41-48

I did a serch on ebay the other day and these units are available.

Keep this for your refernece list.

Again I have an Autolite expanded catalog that will list all of the various autolite parts that were used on your vehiles. The cost is $15 delivered to your home. The catalog is on CD. This si the best sorece of info that you can have when looking for specific components that were used on your car or truck.

This caralog cover 1938 - 1951 cars and trucks that all used Autolite components

Then when going to a swap meet you then know the parts to look for and know the correct number.

The cheapest documentation that you will find around to have at your finger tips.

Rich Hartung

Desoto1939@aol.com

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Got a hold of the company that sent me the wrong vacuum advance and the salesman said it was mismarked and the one they sent me was for a counter rotating engine. Kind of makes since now as the unit they sent me was kind of back asswards. So the right one is in the mail and life is good once again.

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Got a hold of the company that sent me the wrong vacuum advance and the salesman said it was mismarked and the one they sent me was for a counter rotating engine. Kind of makes since now as the unit they sent me was kind of back asswards. So the right one is in the mail and life is good once again.

That sounds to me like a huge crock full. The only counter rotating engine application I have ever heard of is for a marine engine. As a marine engine normally runs at a governed speed it is very doubtful that a vacuum advance would be used. Were it me I would question that salesman a bit more.

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Don I will leave all that technical stuff to my mechanic and then wip out the old credit card!

Understood. You will pay by credit card for something. But you dont have a clue what exactly it is that you are paying for, nor have you elected to speciffically say what it is that you are paying for. Not what I would do but if it makes you feel good then go for it.

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Understood. You will pay by credit card for something. But you dont have a clue what exactly it is that you are paying for, nor have you elected to speciffically say what it is that you are paying for. Not what I would do but if it makes you feel good then go for it.

Don - you are asking questions that I feel you already know the answer or have personal knowledge on how to perform the setup.

But I get the feeling that since he does not know the answer your reply is sort of very terse. Some of the forum members have been car mechanics and most of us are not. We enjoy the hobby and are trying our best to keep these old cars running to the best of our knowledge and mechnaical experience. For someone that does not know how to do something then if you havethe experience then please pass the information along and or point us to a link that can get us the knowledge so we then can pass that along to someone else.

I often read you comments and they do not come across is a nice manner. I know that you are not meaning that to happen but this is the tone that I pickup often. i am not trying to get on you but be helpful not be putting down someone for paying to have something done on their car. I am not an expert in everything so there are things in life that I have to pay people to do for me, but when it is being doneI watch and ask questions to understand so what is wrong with that. i do not think that when you were born you knew all abot MoPars and how to rebuild an egine, You were shown by someone or learned by trial an error.

So lets help each other to learn an enjoy the forum and our cars.

I welcome any comments.

Rich HArtung

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Hay I was only kidding about the credit card as most garages around here wouldn't know how to adjust a vacuum advance on my 42 dodge even if I gave them my credit card. So I will attack that problem when I get around to it. I have manuals and I know I can figure it out. After all I spent my entire career as a Marine Macheist working for Uncle Sam and never sunk a ship or had to go to critiques about something that I was in charge of. So lets it stand there and it will get done in due time.

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Jon,

In case you don't have this info.These are the specs you'll be wanting...

post-423-13585371866903_thumb.jpg

(click on image)

post-423-13585371866134_thumb.jpg

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Just question from an old guy who wants to know how do you measure inches of mercury for calibrating a vacuum advance? Is there some specail tool to do this with? Never seen such a device but hay I'm just an old fart wanting a little knowledge that I was not born with.:cool:

PS. the previous post call for such a measurment but it reads like greek to me-Old guy just wanting information and please no sarcasam as I burse easlily;0

Edited by JIPJOBXX
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Jon,

There's a tool available on ebay.Search for "MityVac MV8500".Lots of uses besides tune-up,bleeding brakes,etc. -comes with a manual.There are cheaper equivalent tools,

just used that as an example :)

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Just question from an old guy who wants to know how do you measure inches of mercury for calibrating a vacuum advance? Is there some specail tool to do this with? Never seen such a device but hay I'm just an old fart wanting a little knowledge that I was not born with.:cool:

PS. the previous post call for such a measurment but it reads like greek to me-Old guy just wanting information and please no sarcasam as I burse easlily;0

...

The centrifugal advance curve is set by spring tension and counter weights. On a P-15 centrifugal advance should pull 3 degrees advance @ 400 RPM's and be full in 9 degrees @ 1300 RPM's. The vacuum advance is set by adding/removing shims to adjust spring pressure on the diaphragm. On a P-15 the vacuum advance should pull 2 degrees of advance @ 6 3/4 inches of mercury and be fully advanced 10 degrees @ 14 inches of mercury. The vacuum advance comes into play only while accelerating. Once at speed it does nothing. Many Mopar flathead 6 industrial engines do not have a vacuum advance on there distributor as they run at a constant governed speed. To answer the question of "will the pictured unit work on your distributor" it might IF the linkage arm is the same as your original unit. If you replace a vacuum advance unit it is very important to use a vacuum generator as pictured below to adjust the shims to the prescribed range for your engine.

vacpump.jpg

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Hey Don,

Also remember you posting some helpful info on bench testing your distributor. (See Picture)...Could be carried a step or two further and have a very good test setup simulating a distributor test machine...Just call me,Ralph aka "ratchet gearloose".;):D

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