wallytoo Posted November 3, 2012 Report Posted November 3, 2012 (edited) time to replace the bed floor. the floor of the dump body has the kiln-dried spruce that a previous owner installed. it was untreated when i purchased the truck. i added several coats of stain, and motor oil, but it has rotted out. no surprise, really, as k-d spruce isn't particularly rot-resistant.took the truck on a trip to pick up a load of eastern hemlock to replace the floor. 12-footers, 1.5-inches thick, rough sawn. i'll coat them entirely with several coats of used motor oil before installation.meanwhile, i'll have to grind off about 30 of the bolts holding the floor on, as the p/o used a welder rather than lock-nuts. you can see some of the rot and broken floor boards in the pics. Edited February 19, 2015 by wallytoo Quote
Merle Coggins Posted November 3, 2012 Report Posted November 3, 2012 Wouldn't something like Linseed oil be a better choice to weatherproof the lumber? Quote
wallytoo Posted November 3, 2012 Author Report Posted November 3, 2012 probably, but i've got a large supply of used (free) motor oil, and the lumber doesn't cost me anything but time, so if i have to replace the floor again in 15 years, i'm ok with it. Quote
Scruffy49 Posted November 3, 2012 Report Posted November 3, 2012 Used motor oil is still the industry standard for working low boy and step deck equipment haulers. Cheap, long lasting, soaks in really well. Retreat as needed to cover gouges, scratches and dents. A working Pilot House? Guess I'm not so strange after all... Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted November 3, 2012 Report Posted November 3, 2012 The best part is it will smell like motor oil for a long time too-especially baking in the sun. Quote
KJ's Dodge Posted November 3, 2012 Report Posted November 3, 2012 I just coated the new spruce deck of my Donahue Implement Carrier with Penofin, all sides and end grains. The stuff has really lasted for me on residential decks but it is a little price but the wood should last pretty well. Free is still better than 50 per gallon or more. Quote
ggdad1951 Posted November 3, 2012 Report Posted November 3, 2012 I use the Penofin on my deck on my house....awesome stuff! But not free.... Quote
wallytoo Posted November 4, 2012 Author Report Posted November 4, 2012 The best part is it will smell like motor oil for a long time too-especially baking in the sun. which, in north central new england is what, 10 days per year? can't beat the price, and it does protect the wood from decay. Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted November 4, 2012 Report Posted November 4, 2012 Slugs won't crawl on the oiled bed either. I have done the same on a couple of my trucks. The lingering blue sheen is ugly though in the rain. Quote
wallytoo Posted January 19, 2013 Author Report Posted January 19, 2013 finished the install of the new hemlock bed. coated top/bottom and ends of each board. used new hardware (carriage bolts/nuts/washers) to attach to the dump body frame. Quote
wallytoo Posted January 19, 2013 Author Report Posted January 19, 2013 and put it to good use, delivering a load of cordwood to a local woodbank from one of my logging jobs. the load is about 2 cords, around 4700 pounds. Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted January 20, 2013 Report Posted January 20, 2013 Looks great! I love it seeing a big truck being used like your'e doing! I never have seen anyone using these old dodges around here. Bob Quote
MBF Posted January 20, 2013 Report Posted January 20, 2013 Nice looking job. That is one substantial bed. I've been working on the bed of mine. When I bought the truck (originally a firetruck) it had an old dump body on it that didn't quite fit the truck. I took it off, painted the frame and went looking for a period correct flatbed body. I found one in a junkyard just before Thanksgiving. I got it mounted, but it was too long for my chassis. I cut it down, and started working on the sideboards. I want to get a set of stake arms for it and make it into a stakebed like my 1 ton. Your truck looks good! Mike Quote
wallytoo Posted January 20, 2013 Author Report Posted January 20, 2013 picture of the piston, and a little of the underside of the bed, showing some of the bed frame. the dump unit is an add-on, but appears to fit really well to the truck chassis. it does have an i.d. plate attached, but i haven't removed the paint to determine the manufacturer/model. Quote
Stumpy(NH) Posted January 21, 2013 Report Posted January 21, 2013 Looks great! I love it seeing a big truck being used like your'e doing! I never have seen anyone using these old dodges around here. Bob Pretty common around here! I use mine for everything...manure, wood chips, sand, loam, scrap metal, logs, cordwood...sailboat fuel.....mine came from right around Wally's so maybe mine picked up the habit! Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted January 21, 2013 Report Posted January 21, 2013 (edited) I use mine too. Though not as much on our busy roads around here. They will "yailgate" you all the way. Edited January 21, 2013 by Dodgeb4ya 1 Quote
Scruffy49 Posted January 21, 2013 Report Posted January 21, 2013 What's in the middle pic? Big leaf maple or devil's club? Sheesh... Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted January 21, 2013 Report Posted January 21, 2013 It's just the last part of a big Maple tree I cut down. No devils club on my place! Quote
Stumpy(NH) Posted January 21, 2013 Report Posted January 21, 2013 I use mine too. Though not as much on our busy roads around here. They will "yailgate" you all the way. LOL! I have had to "Salute" a couple of drivers, but for the most part I like running the back roads. I love the big trucks, yours looks real sweet! Quote
MBF Posted January 21, 2013 Report Posted January 21, 2013 DodgeB4YA is that truck in NY and did it come from Maine? If it is, I remember seeing that when it was a firetruck not too far north of here. Sat by the side of the road for a good while. In any event, I really like your collection. Mike Quote
wallytoo Posted February 11, 2013 Author Report Posted February 11, 2013 added more to the truck. this time, it is a tachometer. a modern one, because that's what i could find. at least it's only a 6,000 rpm version, rather than a 10,000. the gauge is made by autometer, and i installed it on the steering column. i used a jeep cj sparton turn signal clamp, and used a small piece of steel as a pedestal to attach to the clamp and the gauge. because the truck has already been converted to 12-volt, this was a pretty simple add-on. ran one wire to the distributer side of the coil (-), one to a 12-volt key-on hot source, one to ground, and one to the dash lighting system. i don't mind the look, and the gauge isn't too showy. it is nice to have a better idea of the rpms (i like to keep it around 2750 to 2850 for most things). Quote
Looznutz Posted February 11, 2013 Report Posted February 11, 2013 Hey buddy would you happen to have the wiring diagram for that turn signal switch. I just bought one off ebay and need to wire it up to my truck. Your help would be apreciated thanks Ed. Quote
MBF Posted February 11, 2013 Report Posted February 11, 2013 I just did one for my 1 ton. I ended up taking the switch apart and finding the input to the center post, once I did that I just cycled the switch to determine which were the left and right side feeds and marked them. I always liked that particular style switch. Very period correct. Quote
wallytoo Posted February 11, 2013 Author Report Posted February 11, 2013 Hey buddy would you happen to have the wiring diagram for that turn signal switch. I just bought one off ebay and need to wire it up to my truck. Your help would be apreciated thanks Ed. sorry, ed. i don't have a wiring diagram for it. it was already installed when i purchased the truck. wally Quote
Merle Coggins Posted February 11, 2013 Report Posted February 11, 2013 I didn't have a wire diagram for my turn signal switch, so I got out my ohm meter and checked continuity between all of the wires and charted what had continuity to what in each position. Once I checked all possible combinations I was able to determine how to wire it up. The "Brake" input will have continuity to both rear lamps with the switch off, and will loose continuity to one of the lamps when the switch is moved to an activated position. The one that looses continuity when the switch is moved to "Left Turn" position is the left rear lamp, and vice verse. Now you've got 3 wires figured out. With the switch in an activated position, you can now find the continuity between the "Flasher" input and the front and rear lamps. (You already know which is the rear) It only takes a couple of minutes, and if you write down your findings you'll have it figured out in no time. Merle Quote
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