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Go to solution Solved by Young Ed,

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Posted

I was told to move this question here. I’m Newbie to this forum and Dodges. I’ve been into old cars for a while but this is my first trip into Mopar country. I picked up a 39 Dodge business coupe with what I think is the original flathead in it, for sure it’s a 6v car, three on the tree and no oil filter. It idles great, starts right up when cold, eats oil like nobody business and its totally gutless. I want to keep it original but I need it to have more power less oil consumption out of the tailpipe and hopefully hang with freeway traffic so I pretty much decided and I need to do something with the engine.

I have a 50 Dodge Coronet donor available to me with a fluid drive straight 6 and what I’m wondering is would it be better to pull the engine out of the Coronet to start with a platform with more Horsepower and would it bolt in without any modifications or should I pull the current engine out of the coupe and rebuild it and can I get enough hp out of it? I tried looking for an answer in previous posts and it does seem like the Coronet should be a bolt up but I’m not confident enough to invest the money and time into the Coronet engine for the 39 and I’m looking for specific guidance as I have no idea what I'm goign to be getting into.

Thanks JR

Posted

The 50 Dodge would be a good addition to your 39, if you do not want to have the 39 engine rebuilt. The 50 should have near 20HP over the 39.

I have a 56 Dodge engine, with a TK5 Ford Ranger 5 speed, I will attach to it, that I will be putting into my 37 Plymouth Sedan, for my next project.

Posted

Its not that I don't want to rebuilding the current engine but since I have options available to me just want the best one for horsepower and wonder how much difficulty I would be adding to my build? I really have no idea if going with the newer engine means hours of modifications/fabrications.

Posted

The 39 came with a 217 cu in engine, the 50 came with a longer stroke crankshaft which gave it 230 cu in. It also has higher compression and a few other improvements. But basically they are the same engine.

Rebuilding a flathead six is not very difficult as such things go, and parts are available reasonable. Vintage Power Wagons has good deals on parts like NOS pistons for $75 a set.

It would be possible to rebuild your 39 block with the 230 crankshaft and rods, the pistons are the same, and use the newer head, milled down for more compression. Add a cam and a few other subtle tricks and you could have a "hot" 39 that looks completely stock.

Posted

Thanks Rusty, sounds like I should just scavenge the head and crank from the 50. To be honest I would rather buy a Crank if that isn't too difficult or expesnive as it looks like there is a lot of time involed in removing the engine from the 50 and I would like to sell it as well to get a few bucks to pay for the engine rebuild.

Posted

Vintage Powerwagon has all of the parts that you need. If cost is of no concern then that would be the way to go as the crank would have had all of the machine work already done. You will also need a set of 230 rods as they are a different length to allow for the stroke as the pistons are all the same for both engines.

Posted

That 50 looks too nice to part out. Where do you live ? I have a couple of 230's that would drop right in your '39. If you are too far from me (Northern Calif.)I'm sure you could locate a 230 closer to you.

Posted

I really don't want to but I've been looking in Craigs list and don't see what I need. I picked up that car (with a donor) and was going to get it going as something different than all the showboxes I see around here but once I got the 39 it was all over for the Coronet, I can't do both and the parts car that goes with it doesn't have an engine or tranmission but has most of stainless and crome and other pieces. I live in Washiongton State Eastside and my plan was to sell the 50 after the engine was pulled out but if I can get the parts for the 39 easy and cheep enough I wont need to pull it out of the 50.

Posted

There plenty of used motors around with good cranks for maybe $100 up. add a crankshaft grind for about $125 and you're still way ahead. But the same $125 should put your crank in good shape.

Keep in mind that your current engine will have much more power when fresh. Shave the head and add a couple more hp.

Posted

before everybody gets up in arms, I should say that the outside is pretty nice but it couldn't just be freshened up and drive it away. I pulled it from a field where it has sat for who knows how long, the interior is rotted completely, the floor has rust holes the trans doesn't shift good and the front wheels are locking up on me and no keys, etc.. What I do have is a valid title and what would make a good hotrod, someone could use the parts car to do a nice chop on it and have something different at a car show. It does have a cool visior and lines and I had a 318 to put in it so I wasn't to worried about the orignial equipment

.

Posted
The 39 came with a 217 cu in engine' date=' the 50 came with a longer stroke crankshaft which gave it 230 cu in. It also has higher compression and a few other improvements. But basically they are the same engine.

Rebuilding a flathead six is not very difficult as such things go, and parts are available reasonable. Vintage Power Wagons has good deals on parts like NOS pistons for $75 a set.

It would be possible to rebuild your 39 block with the 230 crankshaft and rods, the pistons are the same, and use the newer head, milled down for more compression. Add a cam and a few other subtle tricks and you could have a "hot" 39 that looks completely stock.[/quote']

question about the head, couldn't I just mill the head on the 217 down or is there another benifit to the newer head?

  • 7 months later...
Posted

Just got my engine back after over three months of being at the machine and now I can't remember if something went into the threaded hole next to the oil pickup tube (amongst many things). I don't see anything obvious but there are threads so I guessing there's a reason for that.

 

post-5430-0-88540100-1367872243_thumb.jpg

  • Solution
Posted

Do you have this cross over pipe?

IMAG0382.jpg

Posted

Ok good. Now put it in and turn your engine over and make sure the crank doesn't hit it. if it does switch it end for end. Learned that the hardway once.......

Posted

Since I'm complete newbie on this engine any gottchas I should take care of before putting on the oil pan, I thought I would use the "Right Stuff" where the cork gasket meets between the block and the oil pan and I'm not sure if I do anything special with the piece that goes between the Pan and block up front.

 

post-5430-0-70542000-1367895068_thumb.jpg

Posted

post-5430-0-33413800-1367900376_thumb.jpg    

Since I'm complete newbie on this engine any gottchas I should take care of before putting on the oil pan, I thought I would use the "Right Stuff" where the cork gasket meets between the block and the oil pan and I'm not sure if I do anything special with the piece that goes between the Pan and block up front.

 

 

Posted

attachicon.gifEngine%20que.jpg    

Since I'm complete newbie on this engine any gottchas I should take care of before putting on the oil pan, I thought I would use the "Right Stuff" where the cork gasket meets between the block and the oil pan and I'm not sure if I do anything special with the piece that goes between the Pan and block up front.

 

 

Do a quick topic search from the 'search' button to the top right of screen as we have discussed this topic many times before.

Be sure not to trim the flat pieces of cork gasket at the front or rear of the sump or you will most likely end up with an oil leak.

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Posted

Power Wagon has used cranks for 550! For that money looks like I'm not getting away with not pulling the engine out of the 50 :(.

550 bucks for a USED crank?

 

That's outrageous. Most people can't hardly give the damn things away.

 

Since you will probably be looking for a new cam anyway,contact Delta Cams http://deltacam.com/ about a rebuilt cam from them and save a bundle,and while you are talking with them ask them if they have a 230 Dodge crank rebuilt to sell. I used their cams in a 53 Ford 4 cylinder tractor and in my 58 Rambler,and had no problems at all. I also saved a TON of money by buying their rebuild cams versus a NOS cam,or even a used cam in the case of the tractor. This was over 10 years ago,but the cheapest cam I could fiind for my 53 Ford tract was over 300,and it was used. I bought a reground cam from Delta for $39.95,plus shipping. I also bought rebuilt tappets for them for just a few bucks each.  I think the price had either gone up to $59.95 for a rebuilt cam by the time I bought the cam for the Rambler a couple of years later,or if it was a case of the 6 cylinder cam just costs more than a 4 cylinder cam because it takes longer to grind it.

 

Even if they don't rebuild cranks,they probably get that question all the time and may be able to tell you who does.

 

BTW,there used to be one guy on this board that custom build cast iron multi-carb intakes and split-exhaust manifolds for flat 6 Mopars. I was off the board for a while and lost contact,but I think his name was George something. Somebody else will undoubtly remember his name. If he's still around,a dual carb intake and split exhaust will go good with that new custom-ground 3/4 cam from Delta to help pull your 39 down the road,and sound good while doing it.

 

If you have to have a aluminum intake,Offenhauser still makes them new for just a little over 200 bucks. New headers are expensive,though.

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