Tom Skinner Posted August 15, 2012 Report Share Posted August 15, 2012 Gents, I just purchased the Eye Bushings and Shackle Kits fo the rear springs on my 1948 Chrysler. The service manual shows removing the shocks first then taking the C clamps off the spring then removing the shackle at the back/rear of the spring, and finally removing the front silencer/eye bushing. An old mechanic friend says that hooey, not to take the C clamp off, but remove the sway bar and let the axle drop enough to relax the spring then remove the rear shackle, front silencer/eye bushing. What he said is if you remove the C clamp you may never line it back up correctly and it would rack/track wrong down the road, that the secret to changing shackles and silencers was to get the spring to relax in the right position so as to replace everything without messing with the C clamps. Please share your opinions. Thanks in advance! Tom Huntersville NC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted August 15, 2012 Report Share Posted August 15, 2012 the locating of the axle to the springs alignment rest upon the welded position of the pad on the axle tube and the alignment pins of the leaf spings..and if securely bolted with the U-bolts equally..you are aligned..the rear bushings are easy to replace without dropping any of the components except the shackle..these bushing are available at Advance under a MOOG number..I listed these before..a quck forum search will yield these number if you are in need of shackle bushings....jacking the body up to remove the weight is a plus..too high then you lifting the shackle and makes removing the pins a bit more of a strain..it is not hard to find the neutral point...silent block bushings are a pain to remove..easier to install but getting them out is a destructive process..check these carefully..I have replaced them but only because they were on hand and the leaf springs were off the car..not because they were needed..if you are dead set on removing the springs do one side at a time..do chase the U-bolt threads if you intend to reuse..lot of folks frown on this..but either way, chasing them will make removing very easy compared.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andydodge Posted August 15, 2012 Report Share Posted August 15, 2012 Tims right about finding the "neutral" point where the spring hanger will almost undo without major strain, jack the car up and make sure its on stands, the shackles once in the neutral spot should undo without the spring moving much if at all..........you might find you have to jack the spring a little bit to find the neutral spot, then the shackle should undo easily, sometimes the shackle may have to be levered from side to side to bring it back into alignment and allow the shackle plate back on, large "G" or "C" clamps can sometimes help here also........another fun mopar job.....lol...........andyd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Skinner Posted August 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 15, 2012 Thanks for the imput! Anymore opinions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Niel Hoback Posted August 15, 2012 Report Share Posted August 15, 2012 Just another opinion, having just done it recently, changing the rear shackles is no worse than changing the rear shocks. Its a matter of watching how much the spring moves and using common sense. The "silent block" is another matter. Since you will have the rear shackles off, chase the u-bolt threads and remove the lower shock nut and washer and the four u-bolt nuts. Support the axle at the center and remove the front spring bolt. When the spring is out, you will have to destroy the old silent block to get it out. You can use and old socket and push the center bushing out. Then pull out all the old rubber. You can use a hacksaw or a power saber saw to cut a slot in the outer metal of the bushing. Once you have split the metal you can use anything to collapse it inwards and pull it out. Clean the rust out of the spring eye and push the new busing in with a vise or a large clamp using sockets as a pusher and receiver. Its really quite simple hammer and tongs work, but much easier with the spring off the car. Remember, this is just another opinion on how I did it. Wear safety glasses and good gloves. Turn the radio up so the neighbors won't hear what you say. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Skinner Posted August 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2012 Neil, Sounds like I'm in for another wrestling match - much like changing out manifold gaskets was. I think I'll try your method - spring removed that is. Thanks for sound advice, however I don't quite get what you'all mean by chasing the threads on the C Clamps. Will not the nuts just come off as I turn them? Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Niel Hoback Posted August 16, 2012 Report Share Posted August 16, 2012 They may come off, and they may just sieze up and twist off the end of the u-bolt. At least wire brush the threads and use plenty of pentrating oil several times the day before you start loosening things. Its been my experience that if you get the nut to turn, don't stop until its off. Keep lots of oil on the threads and go for it. I wish you were closer, I give you a hand, with the radio, that is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Skinner Posted August 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2012 Niel, Thanks! I will wire brush and spray them well for several days as my shocks are coming from CA and I'm in NC so it will be a few days of spraying penetrant oil on the threads. My car is in pretty good shape (underside) rustwise so hopefully everything will turn well without blasting that radio to loud. I usually listen to old 40's music but in this case I may go to loud 70's Rock so if I slip and bust a knuckle the neighbors won't hear my words. Thanks again! Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Niel Hoback Posted August 16, 2012 Report Share Posted August 16, 2012 If you have a long thin punch or chisel, you may save time by driving it between the spring eye and the outer metal bushing. If you can get it to buckle inward you will be able to slip it out rather easily. This is after you get the inner bushing and the rubber out. If you have to cut the metal bushing, try to avoid nicking the spring itself. I used a Bosch sawzall to make short work of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Skinner Posted August 17, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 17, 2012 Niel, Thanks will do. I have been wire brushing all threaded studs and nuts and spraying them with penetrating oil, they look like they will come off pretty easily - famous last words ha. I enlisted a buddy to help next Saturday as I don't think my shocks will be here by this Saturday. I'm going to continue to keep them soaked with PB Blaster until then. Thanks again! Oh, my buddy said he'll work the radio in your absence L.O.L. Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Skinner Posted August 25, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 25, 2012 I finished. It was a 16 hour workfest. The car sits up about 3/4" more in the back and doesn't make noise going over bumps anymore. "What a difference a day makes 24 little hours" The new shocks help as well. I wouldn't do this without help though, it is no cake walk. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Niel Hoback Posted August 25, 2012 Report Share Posted August 25, 2012 Man, that is a beautiful automobile! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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