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51 Moredoor


falconvan

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Doesn't look like much yet. I was going to do a basic re-ring but the bearings look like they were just put in and the cylinders still have visible hone marks so I'm going with it as it is. I did get a new oil pump, timing set, and stuck in one of Summit's mild street/strip cams. The only thing i could find wrong was two freeze plugs with pinholes rusted in them and some gunk in the

cooling passages. I popped all the plugs out and flushed out the block so it should be good to go.

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I hit mine with some engine degreaser from Oriely's and then a powerwasher. Finally went over it with a wire brush on a drill and wiped it off with laquer thinner. I've never had great luck with the spray bomb engine paint holding up long term but it looks good for a while.

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I spent half a day at the boneyard gathering some misc pieces yesterday so I didnt get as far as I hoped this weekend. I did get a few more things bolted on the engine, cut a set of shock mounts and welded them on the frame, painted the front of the frame with some POR-15, and got the suspention back on after cutting one coil off the springs. I need to work some OT this week but im hoping to get the engine and trans bolted together at some point and start mocking up the drivetrain to build mounts.

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I got the motor and trans put together today and my motor mounts built. I had to dimple the firewall in one spot and box part of the frame for the exhaust but it looks good. Now I need to build a trans crossmember and get the pedal assembly mocked up. I got a clutch/brake pedal assembly from a late model Jeep; it should work with some slight modification.

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Are you keeping the original brake system and steering?

Steering, yes; Brakes, no. i'm going with four wheel disc brakes with a hanging pedal assembly from a Jeep and a firewall mounted master cylinder. Clutch will be hydraulic.

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I rooted through my scrap barrel today to find something to build a crossmember and came up with some 2" and 3" angle iron. I cut a 6' piece of 2" in half and welded the two halves together to make a box, notched out for the trans mount, then cut some 3" pices for the ends. After much trimming and trial fitting it looks pretty good and should have enough room for the exhaust to pass under.

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Thanks, I think it'll do the job just fine.

I got the trans crossmember bolted in tonight so now the drivetrain is self supporting. Here's how she's going to sit for a while. I need to tweak my driveline angles and clearances but it's pretty close. Now I can plumb brakes and fuel, get the pedal assembly set up, front discs, hydraulic clutch, wiring, dash, exhaust, plus several other minor things. Im not doing any major bodywork or paint other than the firewall and dash, a trunk patch, and some touchup on the the sheetmetal I replaced so it should come together fairly quick. Im hoping to have the majority of it knocked out in the next few months and get back on my 48.

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falconvan; Are you going to incorporate some kind of "rubber-insulator" between your trans and that new crossmember?? It looks pretty cool, but would you get a lot of vibration noise without one ?? The new one I made sits a little lower than the frame rails. I hope to run the exhausts over it, but like you, may have to run them below ??:confused: Cass, alias littlemo..

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Im tossing that around, Cass. One of the guys that works for me is an old circle track guy and he said not to use solid motor mounts with a rubber trans mount as it can cause the block to break at the motor mounts. He said either all rubber or all solid. I'm really not too worried about vibration; it's a weekend hot rod but we'll see when I get closer to that point.

Doing a little test fitting tonight on the Jeep pedals, dash with the gauges in, and shifter location. I was worried the back of the gauges would hit the pedak assembly but after some strategic slicing it all works out good. Sitting on a milk crate everything feels like its in a comfortable location. Now to make it all permanant.

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Thanks, Adam. I thought about just putting some pieces of an old truck mud flap in between all the mounts for some kind of isolator. The last few engine swaps I've done I've just welded up some mounts from whatever i could find in the scrap barrel and have been satisfied with the results.

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These Jeep pedal worked out even better than I had hoped; all I had to do was cut about 3” off the front, drill a couple of mounting holes under the dash, and it really lined up nice. Im using the Dakota slave cylinders for the clutch; I just need to weld a tab on the pedal arm to mount the pushrod. The master cylinder lined up perfect with the brake pedal.

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I made a trip to the boneyard today to get some brake parts, a driveshaft, and other misc stuff. The Explorer front brake rotors slide right over the Plymouth hubs and the bolts line up; just need to build a bracket to hold the caliper. Also got the dash mods finished up and in primer.

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Cass I'm using the same setup that your48pc came up with in another thread. He's got the picture posted; here's the link:

http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=32068&highlight=disc+brakes

My wife and I both took off yesterday; she's starting to work on her crafts for Christmas and I decied to do a marathon in the garage. I started at 6am and wrapped it up about 8 last night but I got a lot done.

I put some 1/2' rubber insulators between the motor and trans mounts and ended up having to raise the trans tunnel center a bit for clearance. It was pretty close anyway so i figured that was coming. I pulled the motor back out and welded all the unneeded holes in the firewall and gave it a skim coat of filler, built a front frame notch for the crank pulley, weled up everything on the floor that had been temporarily tacked together, and finally primered and painted the whole floor.

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