New oil filter number

[DCurrent]

Not that long ago oil filter was discussed, and a fram number 134pl along with car quest numbers 1010 & 1080. There was no mention of Fram #CH236APL which is what I found later that my car has in it. Now this is my first oil change with this car. I had bought the 134pl and had it ready to go in but the gaskets don't match up that came with it. Looking through past threads several of the canisters look like mine, but the lid is slightly different. My lid has a little more of a peak to it. I'm wondering if it is the right canister or lid for my 48 plymouth. Does anyone have the same canister with the same filter #CH236APL? Should I stick with the same filter?

Darren

[DCurrent]

Here are some pictures of my lid. While I'm concerened with the correct year of the lid for my 48 plymouth, I also would like to know what purpose the tabs on the underside of the lid serve. As you can see they don't seem to have any reason for being there unless somthing is missing. The bottom of the lid was just firmly pressing against the top side of the filter.

Darren

[Don Coatney]

Possibly the tabs were holding a missing spring.

[DCurrent]

Well see, yours also has a large nut to hold it together. Mine has a bolt that drops through it and threads into the pipe. What does the spring on your do?

Darren

[Young Ed]

Your top looks the same as mine. However I have a t nut and a spring on the inside. I have been using napa 1080s but the gasket isnt the same. The 1010 I believe has the right one.

[Robert Horne]

Well see, yours also has a large nut to hold it together. Mine has a bolt that drops through it and threads into the pipe. What does the spring on your do?

Darren

The spring is to hold the filter in place.

I have been using Fram C3 from Tractor Supply...

[yourpc48]

Just for fun I crossed your Fram number to a NAPA number on the Fram website. It crosses to a NAPA #FIL 1076 This is a full flow filter.

This is a cool lookup tool. Check it out.

http://www.framcatalog.com/PartDetail.aspx?b=F&pn=CH236APL

[DCurrent]

Just for fun I crossed your Fram number to a NAPA number on the Fram website. It crosses to a NAPA #FIL 1076 This is a full flow filter.

This is a cool lookup tool. Check it out.

http://www.framcatalog.com/PartDetail.aspx?b=F&pn=CH236APL

You mention "full flow", Is that good or bad? Is there any other kind or is this a stupid question?

Darren

[Don Coatney]

You mention "full flow", Is that good or bad? Is there any other kind or is this a stupid question?

Darren

Yep, stupid question:D

What you have is a by-pass filter. A hand full of brave soles have converted a P-15 to full flow but it requires a lot of work. A forum search should produce the details. As I have a Desoto engine in my car the factory made provisions to go full flow with some (not all) of the long block Crashler and Desoto engines.

[DCurrent]

Holy crap! I have a much better understanding now after reading the above and changing the filter out yesterday evening. I cannot believe what I found!!! I understand the whole bypass filter design now, but I am now about confused with why have a filter at all now. I mean, I'm no mechanic by any means. I'm on the other side of the spectrum to make the car look good. But I think I understand why these cars go through rings so fast.

First of all only half the oil is filtered and not very well at that on the first round, and maybe the oil that was bypassed through just might get filtered the next time around or the tenth time around. Secondly the oil that is filtered has got to be very clean in the first place. I was disappointed to see just a very tinny hole for the incoming oil to be filtered. I suppose it has to be tinny in order to only allow just a certain amount to be filtered so the motor doesn't starve of oil. The out going oil has plenty of room to make it toward the motor to be reused which is great. But the incoming oil could clog the tinny hole so easy. It seems one little bit of metal shaving and its done allowing no oil to be filtered. What's the point? Yes I guess some is better than none.

On the bright side I found the Fram oil filter 134pl has a nice tight fit on the oil delivery center tube. It has a rubber seal to keep the unfiltered oil from escaping the filter topside..... thus forcing the oil through the filter. I'm not sure if the napa is made in this way, but the car quest version is no good. The rubber lid seal is a good fit though from the car quest filter. I'm going to try the napa version next oil change.

AND MY LORD THERE IS A LOT OF GREASE ZERK'S!!!

Darren

[TodFitch]

...First of all only half the oil is filtered and not very well at that on the first round, and maybe the oil that was bypassed through just might get filtered the next time around or the tenth time around. Secondly the oil that is filtered has got to be very clean in the first place. I was disappointed to see just a very tinny hole for the incoming oil to be filtered. I suppose it has to be tinny in order to only allow just a certain amount to be filtered so the motor doesn't starve of oil. The out going oil has plenty of room to make it toward the motor to be reused which is great. But the incoming oil could clog the tinny hole so easy. It seems one little bit of metal shaving and its done allowing no oil to be filtered. What's the point? Yes I guess some is better than none.

Regarding that tiny hole: If you have junk big enough to clog a hole that you can see through with your naked eyes, you have bigger issues than the effectiveness of the oil filter. And if you have that stuff it should be stopped by the strainer on the oil pick up.

I believe that less that 50% of the oil is filtered on each pass. But that is still enough. If only 10% is filtered on a pass (90% or 0.9 unfiltered) then on the second pass 0.9x0.9=0.81 or 81% will be unfiltered, etc. After 10 passes only 35% will be unfiltered. And after 100 passes only 0.002% of the oil will be unfiltered. That many passes only takes a few minutes and you get 99.998% of your oil filtered.

If you have a decent filter, then the oil should be cleaned up in just a few minutes of running time. A good depth media type bypass filter can remove sub-micron contaminants and restore your oil to "like new" condition. Having the equivalent of an fresh oil change every 10 or so miles sounds like a good thing to me.

Unfortunately they decided to be cheap on the filter in later years and put in a paper surface media filter good to only 40 or so microns which largely negates the advantages of a bypass filter.

AND MY LORD THERE IS A LOT OF GREASE ZERK'S!!!

Yes

But I think you mean Alemite hydraulic fittings rather than Zerk fittings which were last used on Plymouth in 1933.

http://www.ply33.com/Backmatter/LubricationFittings

[DCurrent]

Regarding that tiny hole: If you have junk big enough to clog a hole that you can see through with your naked eyes, you have bigger issues than the effectiveness of the oil filter. And if you have that stuff it should be stopped by the strainer on the oil pick up.

I believe that less that 50% of the oil is filtered on each pass. But that is still enough. If only 10% is filtered on a pass (90% or 0.9 unfiltered) then on the second pass 0.9x0.9=0.81 or 81% will be unfiltered, etc. After 10 passes only 35% will be unfiltered. And after 100 passes only 0.002% of the oil will be unfiltered. That many passes only takes a few minutes and you get 99.998% of your oil filtered.

If you have a decent filter, then the oil should be cleaned up in just a few minutes of running time. A good depth media type bypass filter can remove sub-micron contaminants and restore your oil to "like new" condition. Having the equivalent of an fresh oil change every 10 or so miles sounds like a good thing to me.

Unfortunately they decided to be cheap on the filter in later years and put in a paper surface media filter good to only 40 or so microns which largely negates the advantages of a bypass filter.

Yes

But I think you mean Alemite hydraulic fittings rather than Zerk fittings which were last used on Plymouth in 1933.

http://www.ply33.com/Backmatter/LubricationFittings

Yes I realize that the oil would eventually be filtered, but I was so surprised when I seen just that tinny hole. I just assumed it would be bigger. At first I had a very hard time finding it.

As for the fittings, I learn something new everyday! I had always heard them referred to as zirk. Now I know! Thanks for the correction.

Darren

[austinsailor]

Just to give you an idea how much oil will pass through a small hole I'll tell you a little story.

Back in '71 I bought the 65 ford station wagon with a 289 V-8 that had been the fire chief's car. I'd worked at the station where they had it serviced and I was the one who serviced it, changing the oil regularly. They traded it in and I needed a car to move to New Jersey, having re-joined the army.

I took it for a test drive and drove by the chief's house. He told me it had been a fine car and they'd had no trouble with it. At 60,000 miles I figured I had a good one. I bought it.

About 3000 miles later it lost power and almost wouldn't pull itself down the road. I figured out it was a timing problem, the timing chain had slipped. I tore it down and found a mess. The short version was, it had never been driven long enough at any time to warm it up completely. The chief would drive a few blocks to a building, park, and inspect it. Then drive a couple blocks to lunch. Then a couple blocks to the fire station. Even with 3000 mile oil changes, the entire inside was just solid crud. Pull off a valve cover and you had a black shape of a valve cover looking at you. It took a drill to get into the oil passages.

They hot tanked it for about a week, took .010 off the journals, .010 over pistons, put it back together. Ran well, but the oil, which should go through the lifters and up the pushrods, didn't. Took lifters apart, never could figure out why. But it wouldn't last long with no oil on the top end, and I got tired getting out and pouring oil on them.

So, redneck engineering kicked in. I took the oil sending unit out, plumbed in T and a very small copper line, then ran it through the valve covers and drilled a tiny (1/16", I think) hole over each rocker. Should work, right?

Started it up, and before I could hardly figure out what was going on, it had pumped the entire crankcase of oil into the valve covers and it was spewing out the fill and breather! By the time I could reach around and shut off the key all the oil had been pumped out of the crankcase. This was maybe 10 or 15 seconds.

So, don't underestimate how much oil can go though a small hole. And this was cold!

Oh, you're probably wondering how I recovered from that. I soldered up the fitting solid, took that 1/16" drill and made a tiny hole in the fitting to meter it. It worked, the valves got oiled and I drove it another 30k miles. Took it to Germany and drove it all over Europe, sold it to another guy who put some more miles on it.