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Truck Box Floor Repair Thread


55 Fargo

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I have some progress on this bedwood on the cheap.

Again this is a functional to be used to actually haul wood, bricks whatever, as needed.

I still need 30 carriage bolts to complete the job, it don't look all that great, but it works and was cheap.

This ain't know Horkeys or Kmart floor, but Fir G1S 3/4 inch marine plywood.

Once I paint the box inside and out she will look better, but this will do for now, and all is stable and solid, and is much better that what I started with...

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Looks pretty good for a working bed floor. I'd probably add a couple of screws at the ends of the bed strip where the piece is missing so that it doesn't catch on things and pull up.

Merle

Hi Merle, and thanx, plan to use some type of fastner, most likely 2 carriage bolts to match...

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Looks great! I agree with Merle, maybe find a short piece flat iron, grind down the leading and trailing edges and use it as a "bridge". Most people won't even notice.

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Looks great! I agree with Merle, maybe find a short piece flat iron, grind down the leading and trailing edges and use it as a "bridge". Most people won't even notice.

Thanx Guy, the whole project cost about $100.00 for plywood, hardware/bolts, stain.

Now I realize it is not Horekys, it would look great witha freshly painted box, and brand new strips, but this isa user/driver truck, someday She may get all gussied up like my other old doll.

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Mine is a work'n truck too. I used a piece of marine grade plywood. I had to buy new skid strips because all of the old ones were rotted away. It looks pretty good and I'm not afraid of scratching it up

Hey that turned out real nice..........Fred

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Maybe someone has a small piece you can use to overlap that gap. I think I tossed all the old strips I had though. I've got all SS hardware for my next truck except for the holddown bolts. Haven't worked on buying those yet.

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I just ordered a bed kit from Bruce yesterday should be here in 2-3 weeks, cant wait. I'll be posting pictures and updates when i start assembly. Im sure i'll have questions too since i don't have an existing bed to go by.

-Chris

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I tried to salvage one board for my truck but all were too far gone, BUT if one had an aged floor, it could be removed, planned or resurfaced and be a real conversation piece.

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Like it or lump it, the floor is now finished, I do have a another skid strip coming my way. This will be added to the center, at that point.

This is not again a Horkey or Mar K floor, but is not too bad.

Of course it would look much beatter with the box all painted nicely, but thats another project..

Before and after pics

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Edited by Rockwood
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Even Horkey would be proud. Great, great floor. Only one problem, now you can't use it!!!!!:D

Oh yes I will, with a poly tarp for loose stuff and a sheet of OSB or spruce ply for aother stuff, still gonna be sued for work and haulin......

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51Slicks-02.jpg

Or it used to anyway. I rode with this sheet of plywood as my only bed for years. The bed itself was trashed beyond repair. But over the course of twenty years and a lot of tucking money away I was finally able to afford to restore my truck the second time around. If you hang onto it, most likely you will too!

Rear-01.jpg

Nice Job by the way, much better than I did,

Hank :)

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Wow Hank your truck looks awesome. I'm very excited to get my bed from Bruce, hopefully i can get it looking as good as yours. I have no intentions of ever getting rid of my '52. Id like to keep it in my family and hopefully pass it on to my kids (when i have some).

-Chris

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  • 1 month later...

Hey Guys,

So i've finally gotten most of my bed parts in from Bruce (waiting on front panel, back ordered :() My truck doesn't currently have a box on it thats why i had to get the kit. It looks pretty straight forward to assemble, but i havent started yet so that could easily change. Im a little unsure of how the box mounts to the frame? Im guessing that its probably some angle brackets that bolt from the frame to the bed cross-members. Could somebody explain this for me, maybe post up some pictures if possible?

Thanks,

-Chris

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Just some larger carriage diameter bolts that go through the bed wood, through the cross members and to the frame. Outside bedboards go under the bedside channel strip and are bolted with carriage bolts through the channel. At the front panel the boards will sit on top of the lip and are bolted down with carriage bolts. End lips on the front panel go on the outside of the bedsides. Not sure which way the bolts go through but I think they go from the inside to the outside to match the long rod that goes through the roll in the front panel. Bed strip bolts seperate the bed boards and are bolted through the cross members.

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I did a Horkey bed when I first restored my B2B several years ago. I bought the oak, skid strips (which I powder-coated), bed bolts, and fender bolts. Everything fit perfectly and I'm still happy with it. It's not a "work truck" and that's the only down side - I rarely put anything in it. I elected to go original with oak and black paint. It's got 4 coats of Cabot's black deck stain and 3 coats of spar varnish.:)

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I did a Horkey bed when I first restored my B2B several years ago. I bought the oak, skid strips (which I powder-coated), bed bolts, and fender bolts. Everything fit perfectly and I'm still happy with it. It's not a "work truck" and that's the only down side - I rarely put anything in it. I elected to go original with oak and black paint. It's got 4 coats of Cabot's black deck stain and 3 coats of spar varnish.:)

That's Gorgeous! Job Well Done!

Hank :)

P.S. I do put things in my truck and use a movers blanket. Not intending to fill it with 3/4" gravel or cord wood any time soon. This old roofing truck has seen her last hard working days. I would like to make some custom folding floor pads that would store behind the seat. Kind of like those old dining room table pads grandma used to have.

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  • 4 years later...

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