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show you the change from fluid drive to 3speed in my 50`Chrysler Straight 8


freemansrodnrat

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looking good!

Frankie, i think it is, why?

Copper lines are for plumbers not for cars:):D:eek:........copper while soft and pliable when installed, is very prone to cracking when subjected to undue vibrations or sudden jars, like big potholes etc.

Not good for fuel lines or brake lines in my opinion.

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Copper lines are for plumbers not for cars:):D:eek:........copper while soft and pliable when installed, is very prone to cracking when subjected to undue vibrations or sudden jars, like big potholes etc.

Not good for fuel lines or brake lines in my opinion.

Espically not good for brake lines. I dont believe it is legal to use copper on brake lines here in the states.

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I believe you will find that the listings you see for copper brake lines is actually a copper nickel alloy..this stuff is very tough and very corrosion resistant...there is also a copper plated steel that also has some corrosion hold out properties..the newer Teflon coated tubing is the way to go..it bends a bit easier also...

the mixture of nickel, cooper and some traces of steel is the basic ingredients in Monel..this stuff is tough and corrosion resistant..used by the maritime industry quite extensively..along with stainless of various alloy content based on the chromium, minimum 10.5-11% and is what we refer to as CRES...

some older US cars and I believe some English did use copper...I have see copper lines advertized for these apps

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Is that copper line???

That is a odd looking master cylinder for a 1950 Chrysler. Are you running the stock frame mounted brake booster too?

That copper line is kinda scary looking- be careful! :eek:

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That is a odd looking master cylinder for a 1950 Chrysler. Are you running the stock frame mounted brake booster too?

That copper line is kinda scary looking- be careful! :eek:

Yes it is a copper line and it is a original, we have from the brake booster. The master cylinder ist from a Mercedes Benz light truck from the early 80`, because we can not repair the brake booster. I know there are options in the USA, but the shipping to you and back are very high. My master cylinder has a big plunger and I use him without a booster and it works good. We check the brake system and other parts every year and we work often under the car. ;):) I thank youse for the warning and I will be careful.

Best Regards Dirk

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We have the first steps done and the Chrysler runs better and better. We have do check the ignition and setting up this, the idling speed was to high because the torque converter is not there :D and also we have to setting up the 2 Rochester a little. The engine and the car have a better performance now and we will see the result on the first 1/8 mile race in june, I am very fraught of this.

My Chrysler is a orginal europe model from denmark, thats wy I have a kilometer speedometer, thats ok but it works not well with the 3speed trans... The gear ratio is not right with the rear axle, the car runs faster then the speedo shows me. In the next time we will test how much it is.

Dirk

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  • 8 years later...

I too had not seen this thread before and after reading all of it I would like to know how things worked out for Freemans............a straight 8 with twin carbs is always a good thing to see...................hope everything went well for him...........andyd

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On 2/11/2012 at 7:14 AM, Don Coatney said:

You are correct I am looking at how to get there more so than the end result. Easiest way to get there is to weld the fluid coupling. I believe this can be done in the car. Personally if I had a fluid drive car I would keep it that way.

Welding the fluid coupling ? Never heard of that, can you do that?

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