Jump to content

Ignition Coil Ballast Resistor Test???


55 Fargo

Recommended Posts

as you did not get a spark..did you do test two as stated above by removing the distributor from the circuit...you got to split the system somewhere..and figure which direction to go from here..

do you have power at the input of the coil....Fred I would think from all these years on here you would be able to backtrace a simple ignition circuit..it is not like we are working on a rocket ship here..lets just back up...grab a cup of coffee...forget what you have done,thought to do, surmised or assumed..start from step one for it is apparent that there is a simple problem you are overlooking...

so from point one through the actual ground on the other side of the points..walk me through your ingintion system step by step with your findings...yes..start with the battery if you must....or if you are really certain that you have voltage at the input of the coil out of the ignition switch..you can start there...and I am not talking a glowing light bulb tester...I want to see a voltage reading..

you may if you wish send this information to me PM...or better yet...you got my phone number I think..this thread needs to go to bed...

Edited by Tim Adams
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 65
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

as you did not get a spark..did you do test two as stated above by removing the distributor from the circuit...you got to split the system somewhere..and figure which direction to go from here..

do you have power at the input of the coil....Fred I would think from all these years on here you would be able to backtrace a simple ignition circuit..it is not like we are working on a rocket ship here..lets just back up...grab a cup of coffee...forget what you have done,thought to do, surmised or assumed..start from step one for it is apparent that there is a simple problem you are overlooking...

so from point one through the actual ground on the other side of the points..walk me through your ingintion system step by step with your findings...yes..start with the battery if you must....or if you are really certain that you have voltage at the input of the coil out of the ignition switch..you can start there...and I am not talking a glowing light bulb tester...I want to see a voltage reading..

you may if you wish send this information to me PM...or better yet...you got my phone number I think..this thread needs to go to bed...

Okay here goes battery to starter, starter to ammeter, ammerter to ignition switch battery terminal, coil terminal to ballast resistor, ballast resistor to + on coil.

Have done the test, removed coil to distributor wire, then grounded terminal from coil to ground, nice big spark from high tension coil wire to ground.

The other test, open points, and jump with srewdriver, no spark from coil wire to ground.

Have changed points, condensor, and rotor, the little braided wire is in good shape, I have no damn idea what else is the problem.....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Okay here goes battery to starter, starter to ammeter, ammerter to ignition switch battery terminal, coil terminal to ballast resistor, ballast resistor to + on coil.

Have done the test, removed coil to distributor wire, then grounded terminal from coil to ground, nice big spark from high tension coil wire to ground.

The other test, open points, and jump with srewdriver, no spark from coil wire to ground.

Have changed points, condensor, and rotor, the little braided wire is in good shape, I have no damn idea what else is the problem.....

Sounds to me like the issue is within the distributor. Use a test light and double check all connections for current flow within the distributor.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

shorted distributor

..check all the insulators, correct connections and proper hookup of point wire, condenser, make sure condenser is not shorted and do not forget the fact that the pivot post of the floating point may be how we say suspect and shorting on the the post inside where you cannot see...ohm these as necessary...

Edited by Tim Adams
Link to comment
Share on other sites

that is a good point..could as well be an open also...good check there would be to use the wire to the distributor as a ground lead..if when power is on and you disconnect the distributor and get a secondary spark..it (dist) os shorted..if not then as stated above could be an open in the primary feed of the distributor input wire..I have seen both conditions....the fact we have split the system and you have fire from the coil grounding the coil does show the distributor side as the culprit...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You may have checked this, but check the continuity of wire from the coil to the distributed. I had a bad connection in a crimped on terminal that looked good and felt solid but actually had no electrical connection.

Dave

Done this already

Link to comment
Share on other sites

that is a good point..could as well be an open also...good check there would be to use the wire to the distributor as a ground lead..if when power is on and you disconnect the distributor and get a secondary spark..it (dist) os shorted..if not then as stated above could be an open in the primary feed of the distributor input wire..I have seen both conditions....the fact we have split the system and you have fire from the coil grounding the coil does show the distributor side as the culprit...

Okay, the point on this distributor, are not the type with the tension and other copper colored connect.

It is of 1 only, I have 3 distributors, and there all different, this has me stumped, have tried all of what Tim is suggesting, and still no spark.

The funny thing is the 1 ton truck doz, doesn't even have a vaccuum advance, not sure what that thing is from.

I am throwing in the towel for tonight... I will post pics later to illustrate what I am trying say

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Listen, thanx to all who have tried to help with this thread. Especially many thanx to Tim Adams.

I have tried to follow instructions given by Tim, this distributor, does not use the points with tensioner clip and copper colored thin that gives juice to the points.

I cannot find where the short is, or what is grounding in this distributor, it is a 1955 or 56 type.

I am throwing in the towel for now, actually am quite stressed about it, and do not feel good physically as a result.

Nobody up here seems to know a friggin thing about them.

I am not sure what course of action will be next, but will not create a long dragged out thread for it, will post something when there is success in getting spark, and the engine to run.

Thanx, here are some pics of the sumbeach, that is driving me crazy.....

post-114-13585364750852_thumb.jpg

post-114-135853647512_thumb.jpg

post-114-13585364751542_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi all, had a another close look at the diz, noticed for the 1st time, the incoming power from coil, through diz body, and to the little braided wire and clip, there was a contact causing a short to ground. Tim A you were 100% bang on, on this long distance diagnosis, many thanks Tim.

I corrected this immediately, went and place the diz back in the engine, and turned it over, it fired right up, but just for a few sceonds, as there was only a bit of gas poured down the carb about an hour ago.

So now there is spark, the points aren't too great so will replace.

Now what to do next, fill tank with gas, or use small fuel cell, not sure yet.

Once I get her running for a minute or so, will need to add antifreeze, and check all out.

Tim any advice, on what should be my next step......Fred

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Fred, glad you found the problem. As Tim said, it will be some small tlhing that is overlooked. I would use a fuel cell (small plastic gas can) as you don't need to deal with another potential problem of a gummed up tank or lines. That can wait. Then, add some antifreeze to the system as I hate using straight water. Fire it up and let the old girl warm up for a while. That will make you feel better. This is a hobby and should not be a source of enough stress to make you feel physically ill. That is the time to walk away for a while.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Fred, glad you found the problem. As Tim said, it will be some small tlhing that is overlooked. I would use a fuel cell (small plastic gas can) as you don't need to deal with another potential problem of a gummed up tank or lines. That can wait. Then, add some antifreeze to the system as I hate using straight water. Fire it up and let the old girl warm up for a while. That will make you feel better. This is a hobby and should not be a source of enough stress to make you feel physically ill. That is the time to walk away for a while.

The tank and lines seem to be in good shape, as blew them out with air, opened the drain, it was realy quite clean, I am more worried about leaks, from either gas or glycol on my garage floor in the winter, as it is here as of today, it seems like winter.

I may just use a jerry can I had rigged for the 47, and run a rubber fuel line ito it from the fuel pump, and disconnect the fuels lines for now.

Thanx Rob, and your right this isa hobby not a survival challenge.....LOL

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes Fred, take a small break and reflect on this...keeping in mind that it was just a simple step of checking point to point.if you know how it is supposed to work..its very easy to make it work....all the systems on the vehicle are individual and independent from one another and each must be operational that way in order to work as an assembly..it is nothing more than that..ensure that the lubrication system is working..the fact it has run a minute confirms a bit of the suck squeeze blow is working...you have doen a compression test right?...do ensure you have coolant if only water for the immediate fire up and do drain if no antifreeze each time you run the engine..getting cold your way I am sure....a gravity flow fuel tank will be great about now just to run the engine and a old boat tank is great for that...once tuned and cooked in a bit, timing and such set..then you can worry about the onboard fuel system deliverly. Get rid of that shot gun and get a small caliber rifle with a scope..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use