New front disc brakes, front end rebuild, steering rebuild for the '38 Plymouth

[deathbound]

Looks great man. Did you use a little sil glyde on the moving parts to keep them from binding?

Thanks. No, I didn't think of that. Anything I can do...spray of some kind that would help, aside from taking it apart? I guess it wouldn't be that much trouble if needed.

Sending unit. I dont know if you have taken care of your problem yet but here is one that is on my watch list. http://www.ebay.com/itm/330502353401?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

I have other things to do before I replace this but I hope to get one eventually so I dont have to keep that 2 gallon gas jug in the trunk.......

I did purchase 1 from Roberts & installed it. It's not like what they have pictured in their catalog, but it should be fine. I like the style you linked, but it's a 2 wire, mine is a 1 wire. I checked the sellers store & he had a single wire 30 ohm sending unit, but for a 30's & 40's Caddy. I guess if the mounting plate was the same as mine, it would be fine...I'll keep it in mind. Thanks for your input.

[yourpc48]

No problem. Hey the sil glyde is just used on the parts like the ends of the rod that goes in the wheel cylinder and the spots where the brakes touch the backing plate. Could probably use some on the adjuster cams too. Its a high temp silicon grease for brake and high temp spots to keep things from dragging. Not everyone uses it and in my younger days I didnt even know the stuff was available but I use it for all my brake jobs now.

[deathbound]

No problem. Hey the sil glyde is just used on the parts like the ends of the rod that goes in the wheel cylinder and the spots where the brakes touch the backing plate. Could probably use some on the adjuster cams too. Its a high temp silicon grease for brake and high temp spots to keep things from dragging. Not everyone uses it and in my younger days I didnt even know the stuff was available but I use it for all my brake jobs now.

Thanks for the info. The ends of my shoes go directly into the wheel cylinder without the rods like the "newer" cars, but probably the same principal. It might also be beneficial on the pivot/cam bolts.

[yourpc48]

Yes. Very much so. It helps keep things from binding. Yes the brakes go right in. I was just using it as an example. Nice thing about the sil glyde is its ultra high temp and wont get on the brake shoe like regular grease or oil can.

[deathbound]

Bent & installed the last 2 hard lines @the rear axle. Only thing left to do with the brake lines is install the new rubber hose from the frame to the brass "tee" on the axle housing. Started threading fine into the "tee" with a couple turns, put a flare wrench on it to tighten it, get about a 1/4 turn & it pops out with a brass thread on it. Apparently, the new hose has about 1/8" of no threads @the fitting & bottomed out in the "tee" without enough threads to get tight. I have to find a hose that has the correct fitting or have one made. I know it wasn't cross threaded, it went in smoothly. Here is a pic for comparison.

[Robert Horne]

My 38 parts book, shows the same number for the 2 front, and 1 rear flexable

hoses, #635792. Has been many years since I put new brake hoses on

my 38, but I am thinking I used a rear hose the same as on my old Chevy

Van.

[aero3113]

Bent & installed the last 2 hard lines @the rear axle. Only thing left to do with the brake lines is install the new rubber hose from the frame to the brass "tee" on the axle housing. Started threading fine into the "tee" with a couple turns, put a flare wrench on it to tighten it, get about a 1/4 turn & it pops out with a brass thread on it. Apparently, the new hose has about 1/8" of no threads @the fitting & bottomed out in the "tee" without enough threads to get tight. I have to find a hose that has the correct fitting or have one made. I know it wasn't cross threaded, it went in smoothly. Here is a pic for comparison.

Can you grind down the part with no threads?

[OldDad67]

Bent & installed the last 2 hard lines @the rear axle. Only thing left to do with the brake lines is install the new rubber hose from the frame to the brass "tee" on the axle housing. Started threading fine into the "tee" with a couple turns, put a flare wrench on it to tighten it, get about a 1/4 turn & it pops out with a brass thread on it. Apparently, the new hose has about 1/8" of no threads @the fitting & bottomed out in the "tee" without enough threads to get tight. I have to find a hose that has the correct fitting or have one made. I know it wasn't cross threaded, it went in smoothly. Here is a pic for comparison.

Could it be that you have a mix of SAE threads and Metric?

[yourpc48]

It should have a precision machined end to seat and seal in the splitter block so grinding probably wouldnt work unless you could get the same taper into it as factory.

[DJ194950]

looking into your tee--does it have inverted flare type seat or drilled straight in for pipe thread??

I suspect that you have a seat in there and the end in the pic appears to actually be a straight thread, not even pipe, which is tapered thread.

That said, the new end seems to be the type that uses a compression gasket to seal at the upper end of the threads and totally not usable.

After determining the type of seat or pipe you can go and buy correct type of hose end.

Best of luck!

Doug

[deathbound]

My 38 parts book, shows the same number for the 2 front, and 1 rear flexable

hoses, #635792. Has been many years since I put new brake hoses on

my 38, but I am thinking I used a rear hose the same as on my old Chevy

Van.

Had one made up using the original as an example.

Can you grind down the part with no threads?

No, that would nearly eliminate the inside flare surface.

Could it be that you have a mix of SAE threads and Metric?

No, compared the original with the one from NAPA with a thread pitch gauge...both 7/16-20 on the male end going into the "T". Only difference was the start of the male end having no threads for the first 1/8" or so, allowing the fitting to start, then pulled out a thread in the "T" when it bottomed out.

It should have a precision machined end to seat and seal in the splitter block so grinding probably wouldnt work unless you could get the same taper into it as factory.

Yes.

looking into your tee--does it have inverted flare type seat or drilled straight in for pipe thread??

I suspect that you have a seat in there and the end in the pic appears to actually be a straight thread, not even pipe, which is tapered thread.

That said, the new end seems to be the type that uses a compression gasket to seal at the upper end of the threads and totally not usable.

After determining the type of seat or pipe you can go and buy correct type of hose end.

Best of luck!

Doug

Inverted flare...the original & NAPA hoses were identical from thread pitch to inside flare, except for the start of the fitting without threads.

As I mentioned, I had a new hose custom made with the exact fitting the original had, that cost the same as NAPA's, within a few pennies. I also replaced the "T" just in case. My car had a "T" (more like a rectangular block), my parts book shows a "Y" & that's what I ended up getting. Just had to add a bend to the end of each hard line.

So, now that the brakes are completely plumbed & the drums are painted & baked, I need to install the gas tank, mic the drums & adjust the shoes/install the drums, add fluid/bleed brakes, & a couple misc things. Unfortunately, I've got the flu & feel like $#!%!

[deathbound]

It's been 3-1/2 months since my last post. Anyway, recently had my car towed-courtesy of triple A, to a local brake shop that mainly works on "old" cars-to have them check all the work I did, since it was my first "complete" brake job. They liked everything they saw, except the amount & feel of the pedal. They recommended re-sleeving the stock m/c with stainless steel, but also used a thicker sleeve, in order to get the bore down to 1" from 1-1/4". They machined a piston, used an "over the counter" readily available kit & eliminated the check valve.

With all the work done, the brakes work very good, stop nice & straight....a world of difference from before. They should get even better as the new pads & shoes seat themselves. I used DOT 5 brake fluid.

After rebuilding the steering box & front end, there is virtually no play at the steering wheel, much better than before. I used Sta-Lube multi-purpose hypoid SAE 85W90 GL-4 gear oil for the steering box.

EDIT: Also had the e-brake band re-lined & a NORS e-brake cable installed-mine was frayed quite a bit.

Thanks for all the advice...any positive comments, questions, or constructive criticism welcomed.

Edited May 26, 2012 by deathbound
added info