Dodgeb4ya Posted September 18, 2011 Report Share Posted September 18, 2011 Do it your way Fred, I want to see if you can save it- hope you can. I've dealt with a few siezed "motors" too. I have used my torches to speed things up as being in the bizz I sometimes cannot wait! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
55 Fargo Posted September 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 18, 2011 Do it your way Fred,I want to see if you can save it- hope you can. I've dealt with a few siezed "motors" too. I have used my torches to speed things up as being in the bizz I sometimes cannot wait! Thanx rob, just maybe with some luck this engine will break free with minimal damage. If not a more agressive method will be employed. I figured with inside of the engine looking pretty good, I might be able to save it, and use the pistons over again, time will tell. Again I am in no particular rush Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Reddie Posted September 18, 2011 Report Share Posted September 18, 2011 Fred, just a suggestion here but I have had tremendous results with Kroil when it comes to loosening up rusted stuff. I have never used it on seized pistons but it has worked on things that I thought would never come loose due to rust. It is really thin and seeps into tight places. I know that is available at Amazon.com. PB Blaster might be a thought as well. Good luck to you. John R Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertKB Posted September 19, 2011 Report Share Posted September 19, 2011 I second the PB Blaster! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1940plymouth Posted September 19, 2011 Report Share Posted September 19, 2011 Fred, Remember last fall I posted about getting a 1948 Pontiac with a flathead six that had been sitting for 30 years or so. My son and I used PB Blaster and tranny fluid in each cylinder, a friend of ours wanted the car, so we gave it to him, as it was given to us. He let the pistons soak all winter, then this Spring he was able to turn the engine over by hand. He changed the oil, tinkered with the engine and got it running. Smoked like heck for awhile, then once the mixture was burned off in the cylinders, the engine quit smoking and run great. This is an engine that was rebuilt 30 years ago or so, so no pounding was needed with a hammer or 2x4's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
55 Fargo Posted September 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 19, 2011 2 cyls allowing all pentrant to flow through, witha 3 rd cyl close behind. I am thinking they will all soak through eventually. I am currently mixing the new stuff ATF and mineral spirits to dilute the viscosity. Next will be diesel if this does not work as well...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JerseyHarold Posted September 19, 2011 Report Share Posted September 19, 2011 One more thing to remember: If a stuck piston is at TDC or BDC, you have no vertical component of force when trying to turn the crankshaft because the connecting rod pivots on the wrist pin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garbagestate 44 Posted September 19, 2011 Report Share Posted September 19, 2011 When I had a stuck motor I used a crow foot on a couple of extensions. I disconected the connecting rod from the crank, set the crow foot against the part of the piston that carries the wrist pin and beat the crap out of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
55 Fargo Posted September 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 20, 2011 Thanx GS44, gonna let this engine and it's pistons take a long bath in the ATF or diesel, see what happens. If it will not budge, the crank comes out, so does the BFH and wood dowels...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james49ply Posted September 20, 2011 Report Share Posted September 20, 2011 (edited) I just had a brutal thought, I remember having one frozen back in the 60's removed a plug, shot either in it, put the plug back in, ran plug wire to coil, turned the key on and grounded the points wire, :eek:BANG, freed up engine! during the winter in sub zero weather and my car wouldn't fire, I would pop the air cleaner, pump the throttle, light the carb on fire and crank, worked every time Edited September 20, 2011 by james49ply Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
randroid Posted September 20, 2011 Report Share Posted September 20, 2011 Fred, Been following the thread but kept my mouth shut because I didn't have anything constructive to add and I still don't have anything constructive to add but I'm becoming very interested in how this will pan out so now I get mouthy. I have a 3.5 lb. hammer on a short handle with a wrist strap and there have been times when my frustration got so great that I wanted to start with it at the front bumper and enjoy myself thoroughly until the rear bumper became unrecognizable but, of course, I am generally kept in a straight jacket on a short leash so that event never came to fruition. I have heard of letting chemicals do the work for you and like the approach (in writing, at least) because there's little or no chance the chemicals will do any harm other than to your wallet whereas the BFH approach could easily scar the cylinder walls if Murphy is anywhere near. An old red-headed mechanic once told me that some jobs require patience, and the best way to develop patience is just wait. I'm glad you're taking the slow approach with this because we've all known "somebody who once..." but we are rarely in direct contact with that person during the event. Since you don't need the engine tomorrow I encourage you to follow your current path even if it takes all winter, although you may want to use a judiciously applied heater for any results during one of your ridiculously long winters. Please keep us posted. -Randy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eneto-55 Posted September 20, 2011 Report Share Posted September 20, 2011 I know that it probably wouldn't work with the crank still in, but I wonder if a person could use a small hydraulic jack to just keep a constant moderate pressure on the cylinder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Broke4speed Posted September 20, 2011 Report Share Posted September 20, 2011 I just had a brutal thought, I remember having one frozen back in the 60's removed a plug, shot either in it, put the plug back in, ran plug wire to coil, turned the key on and grounded the points wire, :eek:BANG, freed up engine! during the winter in sub zero weather and my car wouldn't fire, I would pop the air cleaner, pump the throttle, light the carb on fire and crank, worked every time Ok, I don't have any stuck engines...but I now have something to try for myself in a dangerously adolescent way . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayfarer Posted September 20, 2011 Report Share Posted September 20, 2011 Thanx GS44, gonna let this engine and it's pistons take a long bath in the ATF or diesel, see what happens.If it will not budge, the crank comes out, so does the BFH and wood dowels...... You will eventually remove the crank. You will eventually remove all of the pistons. So why the reluctance to do it in short order? Nothing is gained by prying on the flywheel or using a long lever on the front bolt. There is, however, danger of causing damage. If you must continue in the present fashion try bolting a six foot long bar to the face of the flywheel and rock it back and forth. I'm with some of the others...pull the crank if you can, then use a block of wood and a BFH on the top of the pistons. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bbbbbb99 Posted September 20, 2011 Report Share Posted September 20, 2011 (edited) I once "unstuck" a 1953 Chevy 235 that had gotten rain into the cylinders and rusted. After removing the head I poured Marvel Mystery oil into each cylinder. Monitored this all work week and added as necessary. Sat morning I took the oil pan off and unbolted the rods from the crank. Took a nice cylinderical piece of mesquite cut to about 10 inches in length and a small sledge and began tapping not so gently around the perimeter of the pistons that were at the bottom of their throw upward. Got all of them loose this way. Urban legend sounding story, but I put a set of rings and rod bearings in it and it ran pretty darn good for the 3 years I had the truck Edited September 20, 2011 by bbbbbb99 spelling Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayfarer Posted September 20, 2011 Report Share Posted September 20, 2011 What this thread needs is one of them there survey things.So far I think the Doctors are in the lead with the Cro Magnons close behind. The Physics Majors and the Pyrotechnist coming in last but with a strong following. ...you left out the engineers.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Broke4speed Posted September 20, 2011 Report Share Posted September 20, 2011 Engineers think too much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted September 20, 2011 Report Share Posted September 20, 2011 What this thread needs is one of them there survey things.So far I think the Doctors are in the lead with the Cro Magnons close behind. The Physics Majors and the Pyrotechnist coming in last but with a strong following. I agree. I caught hell for suggesting to smash the pistons. Some other guy suggested to blow them up and he caught nothing:confused: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoelOkie Posted September 20, 2011 Report Share Posted September 20, 2011 Being you don't HAVE to have it fixed to be able to get back and forth to work next week, and have the inclination, go ahead and dabble with it. I have freed tractors before and was able to reuse some, (if not most) of the parts back for "running it' purposes. You will automatically know in your heart of hearts when the time is right to grab that hammer and pound, pound, pound...that low down, no good, sorry son of a suck egg mule right on through and into the dirt.......and then, all will be right with the world, once more. Joel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JerseyHarold Posted September 20, 2011 Report Share Posted September 20, 2011 ...you left out the engineers.... I've got degrees in Physics and engineering. Does that make me less than last? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigDaddyO Posted September 20, 2011 Report Share Posted September 20, 2011 (edited) ... Edited January 26, 2012 by BigDaddyO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty O'Toole Posted September 21, 2011 Report Share Posted September 21, 2011 You're not doing science until something blows up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Niel Hoback Posted September 21, 2011 Report Share Posted September 21, 2011 Plan A: M-80's with long fuses fed out through the spark plug holes and fired 1-5-3-6-2-4. Probably wouldn't do anything, but fun to watch. Plan B: A 2"x10" bar about 1/2" thick bolted across the top of the cylinder with a 3/4" tapped hole over the piston. A bolt tightened done onto a small 1/4" piece of plate laying on the piston should do something. Plan C involves 1/4 sticks of dynamite. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted September 21, 2011 Report Share Posted September 21, 2011 What ever happened to cherry bombs???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
55 Fargo Posted September 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 21, 2011 You will eventually remove the crank. You will eventually remove all of the pistons. So why the reluctance to do it in short order? Nothing is gained by prying on the flywheel or using a long lever on the front bolt. There is, however, danger of causing damage. If you must continue in the present fashion try bolting a six foot long bar to the face of the flywheel and rock it back and forth. I'm with some of the others...pull the crank if you can, then use a block of wood and a BFH on the top of the pistons. Okay Sir, but AGAIN I AM IN NO RUSH, so will let soak, until it breaks loose or Ima ready to dsimantle, not a big deal. I am not being brutish with the flywheel or front pulley nut, but understand what forcing can do.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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