B1B Keven Posted July 8, 2011 Report Share Posted July 8, 2011 Local shop wants 200-300 bucks for a repair. I'm thinking a small butane torch and some silver solder, then the 2 part sealant for the inside. Am I crazy or could this work (be nice )? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldmopar Posted July 8, 2011 Report Share Posted July 8, 2011 I have not done it but if you do the repair I would flush it well and keep it filled with water and as many vents open as possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merle Coggins Posted July 8, 2011 Report Share Posted July 8, 2011 Actually the best way to keep it from blowing up while welding on it is to pipe exhaust gasses from your car through it as you weld. This will elliminate all oxygen from the gas vapor and it won't ignite. Filling with water is good, but there's still a chance to ignite the residual gas vapor. Merle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cwcars88 Posted July 8, 2011 Report Share Posted July 8, 2011 Hi neighbor (Longview) I took mine to a radiator shop had in hot tanked and they soldered a few spots, sealed it. I don't remember the cost maybe $100, Wayne Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted July 8, 2011 Report Share Posted July 8, 2011 If you really wanna do it right build one of these as forum member Billy Austin did. However I do hope you improve the music..... Click on the picture. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B1B Keven Posted July 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2011 It's been empty for about 15 years. It's out of the truck and I've rinsed it about a dozen times. Drain plug and sending unit are out. I just want to get it good enough to hold the sealant. Hi neighbor! Do happen to have the name and/or phone # of the place you took yours? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TodFitch Posted July 8, 2011 Report Share Posted July 8, 2011 Open flames near a gas tank, no matter how many years its been emptied and/or flushed scare me. Inert/non-flammable gas is one possibility, as suggested earlier an easy source is your car's exhaust. But even with that, I'd be nervous. The one time I soldered leaks on a gas tank, I flushed it several times, aired it out with a running compressor for over night, then used exhaust gas and a no-flame electric soldering iron. I had to buy the biggest, meanest soldering iron I could find to get the solder to stick. But in the end it worked and I survived. Nowadays I'd just search high and low for a professional to do it and be willing to pay the price. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cwcars88 Posted July 8, 2011 Report Share Posted July 8, 2011 Keven I have HART RADIATOR do all my my rad and gas tank repair, they do good work and stand behind it. Hart Radiator 503 Grade Street Kelso,Wa 360-425-6220 (cel) 360-430-3615 They are by the Kelso Mall Ask for Doug Hart, tell him Wayne Carscadden send you he will treat you right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted July 8, 2011 Report Share Posted July 8, 2011 I had to buy the biggest, meanest soldering iron I could find to get the solder to stick. My Dad could not weld but he could solder. He taught me to do so at a young age. He left me a great collection of soldering irons both electric and otherwise. And they all still work! Not all are pictured here but this is a sample. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B1B Keven Posted July 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2011 Keven I have HART RADIATOR do all my my rad and gas tank repair, they do good work and stand behind it. Hart Radiator 503 Grade Street Kelso,Wa 360-425-6220 (cel) 360-430-3615 They are by the Kelso Mall Ask for Doug Hart, tell him Wayne Carscadden send you he will treat you right. Thanks Wayne! You don't happen to have a Dodge 218 block stamped T-142 do ya? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cwcars88 Posted July 8, 2011 Report Share Posted July 8, 2011 Don those look like the irons my Dad left me along with the blow torches to heat the irons. I have used the electric irons but have never have fired up the torches. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted July 9, 2011 Report Share Posted July 9, 2011 Don those look like the irons my Dad left me along with the blow torches to heat the irons. I have used the electric irons but have never have fired up the torches. I fired up the blow torches my dad left me a few times. I no longer have them but they were gasolene powered. They had a flash pan that was the pre heater. Lucky I never burned the house down. Watch this video to see how to light them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TodFitch Posted July 9, 2011 Report Share Posted July 9, 2011 I fired up the blow torches my dad left me a few times. I no longer have them but they were gasolene powered. They had a flash pan that was the pre heater. Lucky I never burned the house down. Watch this video to see how to light them. I have seen those old torches from time to time and wondered how they work. Looks pretty much the same as a couple of my old camping stoves as far as principle of operation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B1B Keven Posted July 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2011 Kinda funny. My grandfather was a 'tin bender'. I remember him using those big irons and a propane pot to heat them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBNeal Posted July 9, 2011 Report Share Posted July 9, 2011 FYI the perimeter seam weld on my '49 fuel tank was full of pinholes from rust. I had a guy at the junkyard the next county over patch the whole in the top, cleaned it up & painted it real nice Rustoleum black, bolted it in and topped it off. Two days later, opened the barn door to the stench of 86 octane and saw the puddle. I ended up spending the $$$ to get the gas tank Renu'd, where they boil out the tank, patch the big holes, then dip it rubberized polyurethane sumthin'ruther. It wasn't cheap, but they did a top notch job and I haven't worried about it since. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggdad1951 Posted July 9, 2011 Report Share Posted July 9, 2011 FYI the perimeter seam weld on my '49 fuel tank was full of pinholes from rust. I had a guy at the junkyard the next county over patch the whole in the top, cleaned it up & painted it real nice Rustoleum black, bolted it in and topped it off. Two days later, opened the barn door to the stench of 86 octane and saw the puddle. I ended up spending the $$$ to get the gas tank Renu'd, where they boil out the tank, patch the big holes, then dip it rubberized polyurethane sumthin'ruther. It wasn't cheap, but they did a top notch job and I haven't worried about it since. I used Tank Renu as well, I have no fears of mine leaking. Best $285 I've spent not to have to worry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggdad1951 Posted July 9, 2011 Report Share Posted July 9, 2011 If you really wanna do it right build one of these as forum member Billy Austin did. However I do hope you improve the music..... Click on the picture. now if you heated it, put a bunch of HDPE beads in it, you'd have a rotomold! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B1B Keven Posted July 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2011 I think I'm going to try a cheap method first. JB weld the holes shut then use some Red-Kote. http://www.damonq.com/TechSheets/Red-Kote.pdf I'll keep y'all updated on the results. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moparmonkey Posted July 9, 2011 Report Share Posted July 9, 2011 Exhaust gasses are FLAMMABLE!!! They contain unburned fuel, which is capable of re-ignition. They also contain carbon monoxide, which will auto-ignite at 1,128 degrees. Sounds hot, but if you're welding its nothing to reach that. I'm sure its been done successfully, but its not because exhaust gases can't or won't explode. Less explosive than straight gasoline vapor? Sure. But still explosive. I'd have to say that unless you're planning on a 100% stock rebuild, it would probably be more cost effective to buy a Mustang tank and put it between the frame rails in the back under the bed. They're fairly cheap, and it gets the fuel tank away from the cab. If you're still in the build stage, you can even fill the fuel filler hole in the cab. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Desotodav Posted July 9, 2011 Report Share Posted July 9, 2011 I had the few holes in my tank welded and then applied a couple of coats of Red-Kote. The sealing procedure is a bit messy, but well worth the time and effort. I wouldn't weld the tank myself - too many bad stories of explosions! Desotodav Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dontknowitall Posted July 9, 2011 Report Share Posted July 9, 2011 as an expanelbeater we used to repair lots of tanks in the early 80,s. we would flash the tank with running water for a good halve hour and then use the airblower to dry out. we would then use a gas torch and very quickly put the open flame past the the filler hole..sometimes we would hear a 'fluff" sound (the residue of gas) and that was the sign she was safe to weld on. It is really no big deal to weld on a fuel tank as long as you are carefull.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lugnut123 Posted July 10, 2011 Report Share Posted July 10, 2011 wash your tank out good then drop a piece of dry ice into it. it will fill with carbon dioxide and not flash. Or once you clean the tank out put a vacum hose in it and keep the air moveing. if the gas cannot get in a large enough collection it will not burn. Or the easy way go to NAPA and get there epoxy kit to fix leaks in tanks. It has a 2 piece epoxy and a mesh to cover your hole. I fixxed a 1 inch hole in my tank with the stuff. works good. lug Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
48Dodger Posted July 12, 2011 Report Share Posted July 12, 2011 http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=23948 Here's a thread about a tank I disected last year. 48D:D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B1B Keven Posted July 12, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2011 Thanks for the input and words of support y'all. I purchased a product called "Devcon" it's a 'metal patch and fill' compound. Picked it up at O'Reilys (Kragen's). Next will be a treatment of Red-Kote. http://www.damonq.com/TechSheets/Red-Kote.pdf I'll keep ya posted on the results. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggdad1951 Posted July 12, 2011 Report Share Posted July 12, 2011 the Devcon stuff is pretty good I think. The local rep came into my work and did a presentation on it and left us some samples. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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