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47 Dodge Turkey Truck Build


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I told you in a PM this morning I was hit for a late fee of a car that also never had a title in GA and will never ever be issues a title in Georgia....but it was just a token amount, 5.00.   

 

Good to have this process behind you I know.....I know I am happy this one is registered and insured now.  Will get the YOM tag confirmed over next week, weather just too nasty to be out and about today.

 

Back to my regular schedule event, clearing the upstairs of the garage to move my two industrial sewing machines into.   This project has been stalled for a long time.   Installed a new servo motor for the newer unit so I control the rate of sew easier, never could get the hang of them clutch motors.  The 50's model Singer, new needle bar and did a complete alignment only this time it has the proper needle in it also.   It is sewing nicely now with heavy #69 thread...but the stitch is a bit herringbone look as the feed dog is an oscillating arm and not like later conventional rotary cam.  Pic of the newer machine....I do not think I have one of the Singer 151W1

rex sew2.jpg

Edited by Plymouthy Adams
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3 hours ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

I told you in a PM this morning I was hit for a late fee of a car that also never had a title in GA and will never ever be issues a title in Georgia....but it was just a token amount, 5.00.   

 

Good to have this process behind you I know.....I know I am happy this one is registered and insured now.  Will get the YOM tag confirmed over next week, weather just too nasty to be out and about today.

For once I got ya beat. My late fee was only $2! I have YOM plates for these too but that'll wait until later. 

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Got my steering gear mostly back together. Still gotta decide if I'm going to paint the outer sleeve or leave it as is. Can't find the large lock washer that goes on the end with the pitman arm...

While hunting for that I came across my throw out bearing retainer and had a flashback that because it was pretty dingy I left it out and put the trans in for a test for anyway. So I might be pulling the trans back out!

 

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Well oddly enough the state already processed and sent me a letter on one of the trucks. Not sure if I should be impressed that they reviewed it so quickly or annoyed they didn't give me better guidelines on the proper pictures required. The letter also doesn't actually tell me how to submit the additional pictures....

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 3/18/2022 at 12:48 PM, Young Ed said:

Today is one of those necessary but boring updates. Spent an hour at the license center but applied for titles for the 47 and 40 trucks. Will find out in 2ish months if there are more hoops are they are legally mine. And only in MN do you get charged a fee for late title transfer on a vehicle that doesn't even have a title in the first place!

 

 

Well call me shocked. About a week after being asked for a photo of the VIN and only 3.5 weeks after the initial application I now have a title to the truck! Quite surprised since they said 2 months at least and possibly longer since I was doing a non title application.

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excellent....not every application is as successful....I am thankful we have an excellent staffed DMV here where I live, 25 miles to the north, a whole different ball game as they say.  My friend got a bit of a run around with that office I do not think he would have gotten at this office.  But...you can't truly say.  

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3 hours ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

excellent....not every application is as successful....I am thankful we have an excellent staffed DMV here where I live, 25 miles to the north, a whole different ball game as they say.  My friend got a bit of a run around with that office I do not think he would have gotten at this office.  But...you can't truly say.  

Other than not mentioning one of the pictures I submitted needed to be the VIN(they still call it than even though it's a serial #) the local branch was very helpful. I was fully expecting another round of hoops to jump through. It's a great feeling knowing the project is officially mine and I can insure and license it. 

 

I also pushed it in the garage and did a backwards step to install the fuel hardline from tank to pump. Pic is pre line but I've got it roughed in and just need to finalize securing it in place. 

 

 

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As usual with these things one step forward one step back. Got the fuel line in and went to test it. Put 3-4 gallons of fresh gas in. Truck wouldn't run after the initial prime ran out. Cracked the line at the carb and it was shooting out like it should. Pumped some into a cup and pure WATER!!!! So drained the tank and got at least double what I put in. So my fuel line is good but I have a bucket full of gas and water to figure out what to do with, a mystery of how the water got in there to begin with, and we had to drain the carb and suck water out of the intake. 

 

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   When I had an ultralight aircraft and was fueling it from gas cans, I used a mr. funnel water separator. Water won’t flow through the fine mesh. Water settles to the bottom of a white bucket more visually. I have a hand pump transfer pump that I would pump the water from each bucket from the bottom, when it starts smelling like gas stop. Food coloring stirred in would show any remaining water left in the gas, in a white bucket. Rick D.

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  • 1 month later...
On 4/9/2022 at 11:49 PM, 9 foot box said:

   When I had an ultralight aircraft and was fueling it from gas cans, I used a mr. funnel water separator. Water won’t flow through the fine mesh. Water settles to the bottom of a white bucket more visually. I have a hand pump transfer pump that I would pump the water from each bucket from the bottom, when it starts smelling like gas stop. Food coloring stirred in would show any remaining water left in the gas, in a white bucket. Rick D.

Thanks for the tip. I bought one of those funnels and a shake syphon and was able to separate the water and gas. 

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Ordered myself a generic wiring harness. Was debating wiring from scratch or buying a kit. Decision became easy when I found this one.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/192903024630?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=IRr80zsIR_-&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=jPrPlFMQQw2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

 

Edited by Young Ed
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you can barely locate and purchase a fuse panel, flasher and base or relay and base for about half that cost at a swap meet supplier....with it already assembled and all the wire....you are so far ahead of the game in time and trouble...going to be hard to come up with negatives here.  No excuses now....time to get it wired.

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19 hours ago, Young Ed said:

Ordered myself a generic wiring harness. Was debating wiring from scratch or buying a kit. Decision became easy when I found this one.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/192903024630?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=IRr80zsIR_-&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=jPrPlFMQQw2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

 

 

let me know what you think of it once you get it...might save me some time on TODD, at least as as solid starting point.

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6 hours ago, ggdad1951 said:

 

let me know what you think of it once you get it...might save me some time on TODD, at least as as solid starting point.

Me too!!  I hope to be ready for that is 6 to 8 weeks.   Started drawing a diagram today as a matter of fact.  Gotta marry  GM tilt column wiring to a Mopar chassis with a hybrid ignition system, electric fans, high brake light, cargo light, courtesy lights etc.  Not exactly 56 standard equipment.

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late model Mopar columns are easier to adapt.....and have been known to install them in Chebbies...and 4 wheel drive Power Wagon....better columns in my opinion as I have NEVER had to do repair work on a Mopar column, only GM and Ford...I will not compare but mine is an IDONEIT...then again, I put Porsche gauges and tachometer on a V8 mopar retrofit to a 41 Dodge truck....dare to be different, not a cookie cutter...?  just my 3 cents worth, whatever you do is fine with me....!

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  • 1 month later...

Another item off the list and I believe the second to last expensive item with the last one being the full brake system. Also got my /6 modified distributor installed. The junkyard wiring harness from the donor turned out to have a bad ballast resistor. Luckily I had a random 78 Mopar shop manual so we were able to go through all the trouble shooting steps. Beyond that the gasket I had for the dist was too thick so it didn't seat enough to actually spin the dist! Spent a couple hours on it sat night with a fellow car addict neighbor and we got it running before we quit for the evening! 

 

Driveshaft was made up by a local shop. I went there Thurs and told them I had the T5 along with a jeep rear end. They happened to have leaning behind the register a driveshaft that was a little short for another customer that was long enough for them to cut down for me. Cutting balancing installing u joints and my yoke and I was out the door the next day for just under $250. Not cheap but in my head I was fearing worse.

 

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17 hours ago, Young Ed said:

Cutting balancing installing u joints and my yoke and I was out the door the next day for just under $250. Not cheap but in my head I was fearing worse.

 

 

 

I'd say you got off cheap.  I had a new driveshaft made and it cost me $534 out the door.  

 

 

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  • 2 months later...

Scored a free 3rd row seat out of a Tahoe. It's got integrated belts. How are people mounting seats in the trucks with the built in pedestal? Obviously for the belts to be effective the seat needs to be well attached 

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