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Posted

I have a small leak where the metal cover with the 5 star pattern bolts attach to the oil pump. Is there a gasket for that? If not can I replace the cover? Can anyone help with part numbers? Thanks.

Posted

There is no gasket there. There is a small amount of clearance between the underside of that cover and the impeller that pumps the oil. You could tighten those bolts down a little and see if it stops the leak but you don't want to get them too tight.

Posted
There is no gasket there. There is a small amount of clearance between the underside of that cover and the impeller that pumps the oil. You could tighten those bolts down a little and see if it stops the leak but you don't want to get them too tight.

I guess they might have changed it later, but on the early cars there is a oil pump cover gasket. You have to be careful about the thickness as it does affect the clearance between the pump gears and the cover.

Posted

Yes, back when I first rebuilt my engine, I had a leak in the same place. I pulled the cover off and saw that there was no gasket. I figured I'd lost it somewhere along the course of the rebuild. I made one and installed it. Ran the car. Zero oil pressure. Took out the gasket and it was back to normal. In my manual at least, it says you should use a feeler gauge to measure the distance between the top if the impeller and the underside of the cover.

Posted (edited)

Well,

I have to pipe in and say there is a special square shaped circular gasket to seal the cover to the oil pump. A year or two ago this issue was brought up. Section 10-8-3 of the MoPar parts book will give the correct part# of an original service oil pump.

Bob.

Edited by Dodgeb4ya
Posted

My parts book had two numbers for the pump cover gasket; 863 724 and 1124 984. The first number was used through engine number 104398 (with a few oddball exceptions), and the second was for engines after 104398.

I've no idea what the difference is.

Marty

Posted

this is OT a little. when I reinstalled my oil pump on my rebuild. then installed the engine. it would not start. I finley found the problem. when I installed the pump I didn't have it indexed right. the problem was i couldn't get the pump out. it wouldn't clear the frame. I had a heck of a time. had to remove front motor mounts, and jack the motor up to clear the frame. an't there an easier way to get it out . this was on a 50 Ply P20 218

Posted
this is OT a little. when I reinstalled my oil pump on my rebuild. then installed the engine. it would not start. I finley found the problem. when I installed the pump I didn't have it indexed right. the problem was i couldn't get the pump out. it wouldn't clear the frame. I had a heck of a time. had to remove front motor mounts, and jack the motor up to clear the frame. an't there an easier way to get it out . this was on a 50 Ply P20 218

I have the same issue on my '41. I had to slip the pump out enough to prime it after I rebuilt the engine. Although the shop manual says to drop it out... I could not get it out past the frame. I did not need to remove it completely because I only needed to prime it. I was wondering why the manual said it could be removed, but it hits the frame.

Posted (edited)

I had the same problem with the pump not clearing the frame. If you remove two bolts on the pump you can barely pull it and put it back in. Worked on My 50 Plymouth. I had a second pump that I used to prime the oil paasages initially then put in the new one. Just took the gear off the old one and drove the pump through the distributor. Just ran it long enough to show pressure. Yes it was prelubed. Its the way I was shown to do it in the past on OT vehicles.

Edited by Alshere59
Posted

It has been a little tough to find. On mine I took the old ring and covered it in hylomar then but a very thin layer of silicone on the part of the pump outside of the ring and bolted it up. I have good pressure and no leaks.

Posted (edited)
Anyone know where I can get the gasket? Went to autotech and local napa store today and they said they had no idea.

Best Gasket and Felpro list that gasket in their complete gasket sets.

Bob

Edited by Dodgeb4ya
Posted

Couple things- Collector Auto supply copied the parts list of Len Dawsons "Deception Pass Motor parts"- They just hunt the parts for you and mark em up- alot! And or buy them from Len. Just some info.

I understand jorswift that you don't need the complete gasket set-but you need to see whats included in the complete set and get the oil pump O ring seal part# or contact them if you wish to see if they will help you out. Maybe call Olsen's Gaskets too.

There was a thread about this same issue awhile back and the Pt #'s were listed as I recall or at least the contents of the complete gasket set.

Bob

Posted

And the guy in Turkey has a complete, brand new old stock US made pump listed on ebay every so often for around $30-40.......I know, I paid that for mine from him and its perfect.....and 1/4 the price they want here in Oz........andyd

Posted
Well, if I did not have a spare one in my gasket kit, I would buy 3 dozen, and then sell them to forum folks for cost + shipping. That is if the seller gives a break on combined shipping:D

I'll check into that .....I need one too.....I'm bet that the 'break' will be somewhere between zero and nil..

  • 12 years later...
Posted

Resurrecting this old topic. Did anyone managed to fix the leaking oil pump cover? I am replacing some gaskets around the engine, to reduce oil loss, and have noticed that my pump is also leaking. Am I correct in assuming that I can just remove the pump cover, put a new o-ring underneath and tighten it back-up the way it used to be? People mention something about the cover/rotor clearance. How is that adjusted? 🤔

Posted

Thank you, I already studied this material in the forum tech. section, here.

So, if I understand correctly, the end-play (gap between the rotors and the back plate) is adjusted with either machining the housing or the rotors. Since my current pump is working alright and I just need to replace the plate o-ring, It seems that I can just remove the plate, replace the o-ring, and then put the plate back on. The plate is mounted metal-to-metal, with the o-ring squeezed in between. So I do not believe that re-installing the same plate will affect the gap, right? 🙄

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