confirmation driveshaft

[Don Jordan]

I've been looking at the service manual on how to remove the "propeller shaft". Having worked mostly on Chevy's I was startled to see it doesn't have a universal joint that you just unbolt. It's talking about "remove the trunnion pin with special tool C-552 and disassemble the universal joint" All I'm trying to do is get the transmission out. It is a 47 2 door sedan. I don't remember having this problem with my 48.

Also where can you get the dust covers. These are rubber - on my other car they are leather.

The time for summer projects has begun.

Thanks for your help.

[TodFitch]

I'm confused. All of the ball and trunion u-joint housings I've seen have four holes for bolting them up. On my parking brake hub there are four studs with nuts for attaching the drive shaft and on the rear axle you use four bolts.

Pressing the pin in or out is done off the car.

I believe I got my leather boots from Mitchell Motor Parts.

[greg g]

The drive shaft can be removed from one end or both ends by unbilting the flanges The ujoint does not need to be dissassembled. However, make sure you reference the shaft flange to the trans and/or diff flange so that it goes back in referenced to the the same way it came out.

If you are just pulling the trans, unbolt the shaft from the trans at the e brake and wire it out of the way.

[suntennis]

I find it easiest when removing the driveshaft to remove nuts and bolts from the differential, remove nuts and lock washers from the park brake area, then by hand or with the help of a pry tool compress the end of the shaft and remove. Once the rear is removed the shaft will slide easily off the studs at the other end. To remove the driveshaft only from the transmission, it requires a lot of effort to compress the shaft to clear the studs. Unlike the U joints you have worked with, these joints have a spring in them that allow the joint to flex lengthwise.

On doing the rubber seals, you may be able to install the new ones without removing the pin that is in the driveshaft. I was not able to do it, so I took the shaft to a machine shop to have the pins removed and rubber boots installed. The service manual says the pins in the shaft need to be within 0.006 inches of centered.

[TodFitch]

Near as I can tell, all the rubber boots available now are old stock and will fail quickly. I went for leather after having rubber boots fail having just been sitting on the driveshaft after installation but before putting the driveshaft back on the car.

[1941Rick]

I just removed the oem drive shaft and replaced it with a modern u-joint shaft...so much smoother now.....anyone looking for a good oem driveshaft?

[Don Jordan]

I know this thread is closed but I'm hoping some one still is checking. I got the drive shaft off and did a really stupid thing. I hate to admit to it because now some will have a chance to confirm publicly how inept I am. I pushed the shaft out from under the car and did some other things. When I got out I looked at the shaft and I can't remember which way it goes! How important is that? Should I just have it balanced?

Question 2: I'm looking at the service manual and I can't figure out how to get the old dust cover off.

It says, "Remove the old dust cover and disassemble the universal joint..."

I'm looking at the picture but mine is not just sliding that easily. I will try to take some pictures.

Please remember not everyone is as smart as you.

My father is rolling over in his grave. He never showed me about mechanics because he was one and he said it's a terrible way to make a living. I had to wait till he was dead to pick up the sport.

thanks

[Niel Hoback]

I'll try to answer number one. The drive shaft will fit no matter which end you put forward. It will bolt up two ways, 180 degrees from the other. It really doesn't make any difference. Some people have encountered an imbalance problem when they change the mounting. I have not had that problem and its easy to just rotate it or swap it end for end if you do.

Bend up the tabs and push the dust cover back to expose the u-joint. Don't let the spring get you in the eye. If you are going to replace the covers with leather ones, just cut the rubber ones off and there is no need to disassemble the joint.

Caution; all advice is just my opinion.

[Don Jordan]

Thank you - thank you. I think I'm going to find some leather ones. Like you said I just cut the rubber ones off.

Thank you for not only your advice but for your opinion they were both helpful.

[TodFitch]

....

Caution; all advice is just my opinion.

But it seems to be a pretty good opinion.

[BobT-47P15]

If you find some older leather covers, you can probably liven and

limber them up by soaking in neatsfoot oil.

[Don Jordan]

Right now I have been unable to locate any leather ones. I guess I will go with Roberts. He seems to have the rubber ones. I believe that getting them on is going to be a problem. The book says to "force" them on. Yikes.

[Jim Yergin]

To those using the leather boots, are there supposed to be two of them on each joint? An inner smaller boot and the larger outer boot?

Jim Yergin

[Jim Saraceno]

To those using the leather boots, are there supposed to be two of them on each joint? An inner smaller boot and the larger outer boot?

Jim Yergin

Nope, just the one outer boot.

[greg g]

Some time a little heat can go a long way to making the rubber pliable enough to work with. either immersing them in hot water or using a hair dryer to allow them to stretch while warm.

[TodFitch]

Nope, just the one outer boot.

Actually, the factory had two kits one which had an inner grease retainer and the the outer dust cover. And the leather boots I got last year were setup with an inner cone that snapped into place to provide the grease retainer function. My Quicken entry for buying them in February of 2010 says "Obsolete Mopar" which I think is the business name for Mitchell Motor Parts.

I'll grant you that most of the leather boots available are just the outer, but that is not all there were or are.

[Jim Yergin]

Tod,

Thanks for the confirmation and the information. I did not know about the inner seal until I read about them in the instructions that came with the leather outer seal I purchased. Will have to see about getting an inner.

Jim Yergin

[desoto1939]

The newer front wheel cars use a CV Joint rubber boot. You might be bale to find one that is longer enought and has the correct opening in diameter to fit over the metal housing at the pin and then the correct size to fit on the driveshaft and then clamp them onto each end. If the modern cars are using rubber and they are lasting then there has to be someting that can fit our older cars.. The leather iner cone is very hard to find as Todd had stated. I have been going to Hershey for over 20 years and have not seen any. I guess you could mke one out of some soft leather to fit the inner cicle of the hole on the housing and use some gorrilla glue to hold it to gether and then use a hose clamp to hold it in place. These are just some thoughts.

I do have some literature o what the leather inner cones looked like and also the numbers on the various Pin and Trunions numbers and kits that were used on the various cars and truck. Be careful because they look the same but some are different model and have larger flanges and body lengths.

When you purchase the new housing look to see if if has a grease fitting. This will permit you to grease it with out having to take it apart. Grease or the lack of it from being washed out is what casued these joint to go bad. In the old days there were to be repacked every two years.

Rich hartung

Desoto1939@aol.com

[TodFitch]

The newer front wheel cars use a CV Joint rubber boot. You might be bale to find one that is longer enough and has the correct opening in diameter to fit over the metal housing at the pin and then the correct size to fit on the driveshaft and then clamp them onto each end. If the modern cars are using rubber and they are lasting then there has to be someting that can fit our older cars.. ...

On a couple of different occasions I spent some time going through CV boot catalogs looking for ones that looked like they'd fit the old Chrysler product ball and trunnion U-joints. There may be one that will fit but I was not able to find it.

[Don Jordan]

While it was just mentioned (and I hadn't given it any thought) I can't seem to find a zerk fitting on the U joint. How does one go about getting grease to it?

I've got some pictures as soon as I figure it out.

[Don Jordan]

So here it is. I like the idea of putting the rubber in hot water. Putting the boot on is going to be a challenge. Still can't find the grease fitting.

[Niel Hoback]

I've never seen one with a grease fitting, I wonder if thats only only on replacement joints?

[TJM70's_48]

Hey Don...don't beat yourself up about not being a veteran mechanic. I'm not either...I've done moderate stuff myself thru the years but I'm learning every time I touch my Plymouth. And man, do I have a lot to learn.

But that's half the fun of owning a car that I can actually work on.

The knowledge sharing here, the veteran guys, is very generous.

Just had to chime in because I have a horrible tranny oil leak and I will need to pull mine soon. Good thread for me, too.

[Jim Saraceno]

Here's some info about the dust covers. This site has a rundown on both types of drive-shafts...

[Don Jordan]

I hate to beat this dead horse into the ground but I have just one more question:

I cut the old rubber off. I've ordered new ones. Do I take the end off the drive shaft? I notice in the picture there is a spring - will that go flying? I know I have to clean the U joint then slip the dust cover on and then pack it with grease?

I usually do it wrong then do it over. I get more practice that way.

I appreciate all the help. The engine is coming out soon. I'll try to get pictures.