Adam H P15 D30 Posted May 18, 2011 Report Share Posted May 18, 2011 Thanks, Going to remove 1 when I put the 8" ford rear in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martybose Posted May 19, 2011 Report Share Posted May 19, 2011 Thanks,Going to remove 1 when I put the 8" ford rear in. Did you have to get an 8" built for your car, or did you find one that the right width? Marty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hillbilly4008 Posted May 19, 2011 Report Share Posted May 19, 2011 I am going to build some lowering blocks for my Desoto. My rear springs measure 2.5" wide , so ideally a piece of 2.5"x3" tubing would work fine. Unfortunately my suppliers do not carry steel tubing in in that size. I do have some 2"x3" tubing in stock, what I plan to do is plate the sides of the tubing with 1/4"x3" hot roll then drill a 5/8" hole in the bottom for the center bolt, then round the head on a 3/8" bolt and bolt it to the top so it will seat in the spring perch. My local spring shop will make the new U-bolts. Mackster, If you can't find the right blocks for your car let me know. I can whip up a pair for ya. That goes for anyone else here also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam H P15 D30 Posted May 19, 2011 Report Share Posted May 19, 2011 Did you have to get an 8" built for your car, or did you find one that the right width?Marty I found one out of a 64???? Falcon 6cyl. The spring pads will have to be moved but it's within an inch of the stocker. I can't remember if it has the 3.40 or 3.54 gears and it has the tapered axle tubes (which most people don't want) but allows us to keep our lower spring mounts and same sized u bolts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martybose Posted May 19, 2011 Report Share Posted May 19, 2011 I found one out of a 64???? Falcon 6cyl. The spring pads will have to be moved but it's within an inch of the stocker. I can't remember if it has the 3.40 or 3.54 gears and it has the tapered axle tubes (which most people don't want) but allows us to keep our lower spring mounts and same sized u bolts. I'll keep that in mind! I can't see any reason to put a 9" Ford behind a flathead, but I would like to put an 8" with disk brakes and a 3.50-3.70ish gear ratio in my 47. Marty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam H P15 D30 Posted May 19, 2011 Report Share Posted May 19, 2011 If you want disc brakes, look for an 8.8 Ford from a 95+ Explorer (might be too narrow though) You can adapt the Explorer rear disc to the 8" and 9". I looked for the "less desireable" tapered tubed" 8" because they are cheap, have gear ratios we need and can use our U bolts. Everyone wants the Maveric 8" for the larger tubes but they are $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$. I don't see the need for rear disc brakes on these old cars. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mackster Posted May 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2011 I am going to build some lowering blocks for my Desoto. My rear springs measure 2.5" wide , so ideally a piece of 2.5"x3" tubing would work fine. Unfortunately my suppliers do not carry steel tubing in in that size. I do have some 2"x3" tubing in stock, what I plan to do is plate the sides of the tubing with 1/4"x3" hot roll then drill a 5/8" hole in the bottom for the center bolt, then round the head on a 3/8" bolt and bolt it to the top so it will seat in the spring perch. My local spring shop will make the new U-bolts. Mackster, If you can't find the right blocks for your car let me know. I can whip up a pair for ya. That goes for anyone else here also. Thanks hillbilly4008! I do have two lowering blocks of 2 inch tall for the desoto. I was gona stack them(4) two on each side... (in fact i did) but after stacking them...i notice 4 inches looks good, but it made something rubbed. I forgot what it was... Do you want to trade two inches for the desoto blocks made from aluminum for three inches for the plymouth??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mackster Posted May 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2011 Mackster,Try this link http://www.butchscoolstuff.com/store/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=29 I think this will work out great!!! thanks for the info and link! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Franklyn49 Posted May 25, 2011 Report Share Posted May 25, 2011 Just cut one coil off my front springs, and seems to complement the 3" blocks very nicely. site basically level all around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mackster Posted May 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2011 Just cut one coil off my front springs, and seems to complement the 3" blocks very nicely. site basically level all around. looks perfect! thanks for the pictures! thats what i want! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Fred Posted May 25, 2011 Report Share Posted May 25, 2011 looking good! i think i'll try cutting one coil as well, i have a second pair of front springs in the shelf from a 39 dodge. how did you take the springs out? did you use a spring compressor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andydodge Posted May 25, 2011 Report Share Posted May 25, 2011 Fred, easiest way to take out the front springs is to jack up the car between the lower inner pivots, block the chassis on either side then remove the wheel, get another jack under the lower A arm, jack up so that it just takes the arms weight then undo the lower outer pin. Once removed wind down the jack thats on the lower A arm till the spring comes loose, it shouldn't go "bang"........oops don't forget to place a block of wood between the top of the chassis & upper A arm before undoing the lower outer pin.........cut one coil & straighten the coiled spring where cut so that the spring sits in the spring pocket on the lower arm & reassemble........then go varoom.....lol........andyd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Franklyn49 Posted May 26, 2011 Report Share Posted May 26, 2011 Yep what Andydodge said is basically all it takes, Except I dropped the middle sway bar mounts to allow for further "lower control arm" drop. I did find however that when the lower control arm was unpinned and lowered out of the way as far down as it would go, there still wasn't enough clearance to drop the coils out. what helped was a good old pry bar and a push with my boot normspeed's note on cutting coils was my guide. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Fred Posted May 26, 2011 Report Share Posted May 26, 2011 ok, thanks! i'll have to take a closer look to that one, though, because i don't get this "block of wood between the top of the chassis & upper A arm" thing at the moment... must be the time. to early. i'm sure it will make sense under the car. we're building the exhaust today and tomorrow, i'll have plenty of time to look at the chassis. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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