Tune-up procedures...

[Jim Saraceno]

I'm putting together a word file outlining tune up procedures for my car. I know some of the specs and procedures vary but have I made any glaring errors here?

BTW... I'd like to thank members for posting much of this information before. I stole an excerpt from Gregg G's recent post but I can't remember who originally posted the valve adjustment procedure picture. It is great and maybe GTK could add it to the downloads section. Whoever did it, please stand up and be counted.

Thanks for any input.

Tune-up and engine specs:

o Point gap: .020”

o Dwell (57): 39 deg. (36-42 deg.)

o Spark plug: AUTOLITE - 306 (or - 303)

o Spark plug gap (resistor): .035”

o Spark plug torque: 30 ft./#s

o Idle speed: 450-500 rpm

o Timing TDC

o Firing order: 1-5-3-6-2-4 CW

o Vale clearance: Cold - .014” / Warm - .010”

o Compression @ cranking speed: 120-150 psi

o Bore & stroke: 3.25 x 4.625

o Displacement: 230 ci.

o Compression ratio: 8.0

o Horse Power: 132 @ 3600 rpm

o Torque: 205@1600 rpm

o Normal oil pressure: 40-45#s

Tune-up procedures:

o Points and condenser

o Spark plugs

o Carburetor

o Air cleaner

o Battery and cables

o Fuel filters

o Fan belt

o Valve clearance

o Vacuum gage check

o Compression test

Breaker Points:

o Adjust breaker gap - .020”

o Check dwell angle – 35 ½ deg. To 38 deg.

Static Ignition Timing:

o Bring #1 cylinder up to TDC (both valves close for compression stroke)

o Put the spark tester on #1 plug

o Turn the ignition on

o Loosen distributor clamp bolt

o Turn distributor clockwise

o Turn counter clockwise until #1 plug sparks

o Tighten clamp bolt

o Clockwise to retard / Counterclockwise to advance

Running Ignition Timing:

o Attach timing light

o Start engine and allow to idle – 450-500 rpm

o Read timing - TDC

o Loosen distributor clamp bolt and turn distributor to adjust

o Tighten clamp bolt.

o As engine speed increases, the timing light should indicate a gradual spark advance (CCW looking from front of engine)

o Keep in mind the factory setting was calculated using fuel available then. Today's petro chemical brew is vastly different in terms of btu's, flame front characteristics, detonation resistance, and many other variables. While using the factory spec is fine for setting up a newly rebuilt engine, or even getting an old one resurrected. Many of us have found that using a vacuum gauge to set the timing takes into account all the variables preset with in each particular engine.

Attach the gauge to the windshield wiper vacuum fitting (or other access on the intake manifold) then with the engine warm and running at idle speed, rotate the distributor to yield the highest steady vacuum reading. Then snug the distributor, readjust the idle speed if necessary and road test. If you get a spark knock upon acceleration of sustained load like climbing a hill at moderate speed, retard the spark by rotating the distributor clockwise in small increments, till the knock disappears. Now fully tighten the dist.

Valve Adjusting Sequence (Cold)

Valve numbers 1-12 are starting from the radiator. Open means wide open.

o With valves 4 & 6 open, adjust 1 & 2.

o With valves 8 & 11 open, adjust 9 & 10.

o With valves 1 & 3 open, adjust 5 & 6.

o With valves 7 & 9 open, adjust 11 & 12.

o With valves 2 & 5 open, adjust 3 & 4.

o With valves 10 & 12 open, adjust 7 & 8.

Final adjustment: all valves set at .010” while engine is warm and running.

Carburetor adjustment

o Bring engine up to operating temperature

o Set idle speed screw to 450-500 rpm

o Using a vacuum gauge, adjust idle mixture screw to obtain maximum reading

[Alshere59]

Nice I like everything in one place. Other than different valve settings looks good but I am no expert. So what is the forum members recommended settings for a hot engine?

Were you going to add dual carb adjustment?

I had a guy down the street offer a way that I had never read. It worked for me so here is his input.

Using a spring scale (I used a fish scale) measure the tension on the throttle linkage holding it at idle.

Loosen one of the linkage arms. (Engine off so it doesn't go WOT.)

Then using the same spring scale attach it to the now loose linkage arm setting the tension from your previous reading. Arm is still connected but pivots on shaft easily and the scale would pull in a way to eliminate any play in the connections. Mine had a small amount so I connected it on the shaft arm. I know any play in the linkage will throw it off, but my connections are new but I still had a small amount of play.

Using the Carburetor Synchronizer adjust each carb for air flow as you would normally.

Once you get both carbs set, tighten the loose arm remove the spring scale and retest.

Mine worked first time. After trying the other methods a few times this seemed much easier.

Just throwing it out there.

For those that prefer to sync at 1800 rpm's this method won't work obviously. The way it was explained to me was that at 1800 rpm's the open plenum cancels out any minor adjustments. The assumption being that they butterflys in the carb are close to begin with. Who's right is anybodies guess. I like this as it worked first time and his explanation made sense. At least to me anyway.

Edited March 14, 2011 by Alshere59

[randroid]

Jim,

Excellent list, thanks for putting it together. If I may I'd like to offer a small addition for a few procedures that was passed to me by an old red-headed mechanic some years ago:

1. Set the points first because when you move them it will effect the timing.

2. Set the timing next.

3. Adjust the carb last because everything else will effect it.

Thanks again for the list. The way I've been misreading posts lately it almost scares me to do a tune up without a checklist.

-Randy

[Jim Saraceno]

1. Set the points first because when you move them it will effect the timing.

2. Set the timing next.

3. Adjust the carb last because everything else will effect it.

Thanks again for the list. The way I've been misreading posts lately it almost scares me to do a tune up without a checklist.

Great points Randy, I'm going to add that to my file.

Yeah, the main reason I'm doing this is when I do a tune-up it's years between doing them. I forget half the procedures and specs and I end up looking all this information over and over again.

[Joe Flanagan]

o Turn distributor clockwise

o Turn counter clockwise until #1 plug sparks

Jim, I'm a little confused by the above section under "Static Timing." Do you turn the distributor clockwise all the way before starting back in the counterclockwise direction?

[Jim Saraceno]

Jim, I'm a little confused by the above section under "Static Timing." Do you turn the distributor clockwise all the way before starting back in the counterclockwise direction?

You just need to turn it clockwise until the points close then turn it CCW until they open. There are several ways you can determine when they open including looking for a spark at the points or the spark plug or using a test light (depending how you hook it up, it will either light up or turn off) or a multi-meter.

I have a little clip that you clip on to a ground then put the spark plug wire on and look for the spark there.

[greg g]

JIm you need to ammend the snip from my post. The distributor rotation to retrd the spark if preignition exists should be CCW not CW.

Also I would recommend that the distributor be removed to ease changing and gapping points. Clamping it in a bench clamp or vise makes the job so much easier and more accurate. Plus when you drop that little screw, it will not rattle against the downhill side of the body and then sneak under the breaker plate.

Remove dist cap. mark the location of the rotor in reference to the dist body, and then reference and mark the vacuum advance inlet to the block. then remove the vacuum advance tube, and the dist clamp retaniing bolt. and the wire from the coil. Pull the dist out of the block and mount straight up in a vise or or other suitable stabilizing device. Remove the old points, and condenser. Inspect the wire from the coil terminal to the points for any sign of insulation chaffing. Install new points, and condenser. Rotate the drive to place the points rubbing block against the highpoint of the points cam. Set the points gap, and tighten the screw. Apply the lubricant supplied with the points to the felt wick. Install the rotor.

Reinstall the dist, assuring the dist body, and rotor are pointig to you reference marks.

Insert and tighten the retaining bolt till snug but will allow the dist to be rotated easily by hand. Reattach the vacuum line, and the dist cap.

Start the engine and follow which ever timing procedure you chose.

This probably isn't critical on the earlier cars where the side of the hood gives you wide open acces to the dist, but for 35 or so and up, it is far easier to do an accurate job this way, than struggling in the dark in the confined space with you belly drapped over a fender.

[Jim Saraceno]

JIm you need to ammend the snip from my post. The distributor rotation to retrd the spark if preignition exists should be CCW not CW.

Well, I actually changed that from your original post. I figured you were mixed up on that when you typed it. I'm reading from my service manual right now that states "The distributor should be moved clockwise to retard and counter-clockwise to advance the ignition timing".

Also from the diagrams that show the rotor travel being clockwise, then moving the distributor body clockwise should retard the spark.

Is that correct of am I having (another) brain freeze?

Also I would recommend that the distributor be removed to ease changing and gapping points. Clamping it in a bench clamp or vise makes the job so much easier and more accurate. Plus when you drop that little screw, it will not rattle against the downhill side of the body and then sneak under the breaker plate.

Remove dist cap. mark the location of the rotor in reference to the dist body, and then reference and mark the vacuum advance inlet to the block. then remove the vacuum advance tube, and the dist clamp retaniing bolt. and the wire from the coil. Pull the dist out of the block and mount straight up in a vise or or other suitable stabilizing device. Remove the old points, and condenser. Inspect the wire from the coil terminal to the points for any sign of insulation chaffing. Install new points, and condenser. Rotate the drive to place the points rubbing block against the highpoint of the points cam. Set the points gap, and tighten the screw. Apply the lubricant supplied with the points to the felt wick. Install the rotor.

Reinstall the dist, assuring the dist body, and rotor are pointig to you reference marks.

Insert and tighten the retaining bolt till snug but will allow the dist to be rotated easily by hand. Reattach the vacuum line, and the dist cap.

Start the engine and follow which ever timing procedure you chose.

This probably isn't critical on the earlier cars where the side of the hood gives you wide open acces to the dist, but for 35 or so and up, it is far easier to do an accurate job this way, than struggling in the dark in the confined space with you belly drapped over a fender.

Yes, excellent points. I've tried change the points while the dizzy was still installed and I gave up on that. Everything is MUCH easier when you remove it and work on it at the bench. Thanks!

[TJM70's_48]

I am new to adjusting my timing...and everything else on my old car...so many questions.

In the manual, there is reference to a degrees scale under the timing mark pointer above the pulley. I don't seem to have this gauge on my car.

I do have a pointer and I do have a timing mark.

My dwell angle is right on the money in the middle of the spec range.

I still have some questions when it comes to adjusting the timing properly, though. My car has worn valve guides and thus I can't get a steady vacuum needle. So, I'd like to get it as close as I can with the light.

However, can this be done without me seeing the degrees scale? It seems too variable to me depending on my angle of view to the pointer...if I crouch low, it shows dead on the pointer at one place, if I line up straight with the arrow, yet another. Where should I be looking?

Right now, I have the timing advanced a little...on the passeger side of the arrow...but I don't know how much. When I drove it the other day after adjusting the timing, I had a little hesitation on a slight grade at speed in third...making me think I'm still not adjusted right to get proper power.

After reading this post and all the great tips, I still am not sure what to do. Also...when I was a kid the cardinal rule was to always disconnect the vacuum advance before adjusting timing...but the manual makes no reference to this? Should I keep the vacuum advance hooked up or disconnected and blocked?

[Jim Saraceno]

In the manual, there is reference to a degrees scale under the timing mark pointer above the pulley. I don't seem to have this gauge on my car.

I bet if you scrape and polish the area around notch, you will find those timing marks.

It seems too variable to me depending on my angle of view to the pointer...if I crouch low, it shows dead on the pointer at one place, if I line up straight with the arrow, yet another. Where should I be looking?

You should be looking in a straight line from the pointer to the center of the pulley.

After reading this post and all the great tips, I still am not sure what to do. Also...when I was a kid the cardinal rule was to always disconnect the vacuum advance before adjusting timing...but the manual makes no reference to this? Should I keep the vacuum advance hooked up or disconnected and blocked?

I also learned that way but from everything I read, our engines leave the vacuum connected. Just make sure the idle rpms are correct.

[greg g]

Even if the needle is bouncing you should still be able to use the vacuum gauge to get the timing close. Hook up your gauge and rotate he dist. watchthe gauge and see if the reference moves up or down in relation to the the roatation. If it soes set it for its highest level at idle.

[TJM70's_48]

Thanks for answering and putting up with my novice questions. I am confident that I can learn anything I need to learn to maintain and repair my car. I have a good track record with these sorts of things...but I always need the help and good, experienced advice like I get on this forum.

Thanks again for this helpful thread and for the assistance.

Tom

[Jim Saraceno]

Here is my final draft. Thank you all for your input. Some specs will vary from year to year, these are the specs for my engine which is a 230 ci. from a '57 Plymouth....

Tune-up and engine specs:

o Point gap: .020”

o Dwell angle: 36-42 deg.

o Spark plug: AUTOLITE - 306 (or - 303)

o Spark plug gap (resistor): .035”

o Spark plug torque: 30 ft./#s

o Idle speed: 450-500 rpm

o Timing TDC

o Firing order: 1-5-3-6-2-4 CW

o Vale clearance: Cold - .014” / Warm - .010”

o Compression @ cranking speed: 120-150 psi

o Bore & stroke: 3.25 x 4.625

o Displacement: 230 ci.

o Compression ratio: 8.0

o Horse Power: 132 @ 3600 rpm

o Torque: 205@1600 rpm

o Normal oil pressure: 40-45#s

Tune-up procedures:

o Spark plugs

o Points and condenser (set the points first; they will affect the timing)

o Adjust the timing.

o Adjust the carb (done last because everything else will affect it)

o Air cleaner

o Fuel filters

o Battery and cables

o Fan belt

o Valve clearance

o Vacuum gage check

o Compression test

Breaker Points & Condenser

1. Remove distributor cap. Mark the location of the rotor in reference to the distributor body.

2. Reference and mark the vacuum advance inlet to the block.

3. Remove the vacuum advance tube, the distributor clamp retaining bolt, and the wire from the coil.

4. Pull the distributor out of the block and mount straight up in a vise.

5. Remove the old points, and condenser.

6. Inspect the wire from the coil terminal to the points for any sign of insulation chaffing.

7. Install new points, and condenser.

8. Rotate the drive to place the points rubbing block against the highpoint of the points cam.

9. Set the points gap (.020”) and tighten the screw.

10. Apply the lubricant supplied with the points to the felt wick.

11. Install the rotor.

12. Reinstall the distributor assuring the distributor body and rotor are pointing to your reference marks.

13. Insert and tighten the retaining bolt till snug but still allows the distributor to be rotated easily by hand.

14. Reattach the vacuum line, and the distributor cap.

15. Check dwell angle (36-42 deg.)

16. Adjust timing.

Static Ignition Timing:

1. Bring #1 cylinder up to TDC (both valves close for compression stroke)

2. Put the spark tester on #1 plug

3. Turn the ignition on

4. Loosen distributor clamp bolt

5. Turn distributor clockwise

6. Turn counter clockwise until #1 plug sparks

7. Tighten clamp bolt

8. Clockwise to retard / Counterclockwise to advance

Running Ignition Timing:

1. Attach timing light

2. Start engine and allow to idle – 450-500 rpm

3. Read timing (TDC)

4. Loosen distributor clamp bolt and turn distributor to adjust

5. Tighten clamp bolt.

o As engine speed increases, the timing light should indicate a gradual spark advance (CCW looking from front of engine)

o Keep in mind the factory setting was calculated using fuel available then. Today's petro chemical brew is vastly different in terms of btu's, flame front characteristics, detonation resistance, and many other variables. While using the factory spec is fine for setting up a newly rebuilt engine, or even getting an old one resurrected. Many of us have found that using a vacuum gauge to set the timing takes into account all the variables preset with in each particular engine.

Attach the gauge to the windshield wiper vacuum fitting (or other access on the intake manifold) then with the engine warm and running at idle speed, rotate the distributor to yield the highest steady vacuum reading. Then snug the distributor, readjust the idle speed if necessary and road test. If you get a spark knock upon acceleration of sustained load like climbing a hill at moderate speed, retard the spark by rotating the distributor clockwise in small increments, till the knock disappears. Now fully tighten the dist.

Valve Adjusting Sequence (Cold)

Valve numbers 1-12 are starting from the radiator. Open means wide open.

o With valves 4 & 6 open, adjust 1 & 2.

o With valves 8 & 11 open, adjust 9 & 10.

o With valves 1 & 3 open, adjust 5 & 6.

o With valves 7 & 9 open, adjust 11 & 12.

o With valves 2 & 5 open, adjust 3 & 4.

o With valves 10 & 12 open, adjust 7 & 8.

Final adjustment: all valves set at .010” while engine is warm and running.

Carburetor adjustment

o Bring engine up to operating temperature

o Set idle speed screw to 450-500 rpm

o Using a vacuum gauge, adjust idle mixture screw to obtain maximum reading

[TJM70's_48]

This is a great list and very helpful. Nice work.

[Don St Peter]

As usual I came to this fourm with many questions about tune-up on my 40 Ply p-9 and leave with this great check list and very few questions.

Thanks to the contributors

Don