Specialdeluxe47 Posted March 8, 2011 Report Share Posted March 8, 2011 I am doing a frame off restoration on my 47 Special Deluxe 4 door sedan. Has anyone had experience with one of the Pressurized Abrasive Blaster, like you by at Harbor Freight? I have had my body, doors and other Items Soda Blasted but it does not remove the rust. I paid someone to Blast my Frame Manifolds and rear end but really would like to do small sections at a time sort of blast and repair then blast some more. Anyone have any suggestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted March 8, 2011 Report Share Posted March 8, 2011 go for it..I have the Harbor Freight 40lb rig and a 60 gal 5 horse compressor...cut you pressure back on the line..control your sand flow from the valve bottom of the tank so never to clog...and you will be okay..I sandblasted my entire 54 Plymouth with it in just a couple evenings..there is nothing wrong with this method..it is not like the commercial blasters where time is money and money is speed and speed is high pressure that warps and damages..take your time, mask your areas..wrap your engine with a blanket real good a nd keep damp to prevent egress of sand and dust...double tape the areas of concers about glass etc with duct tape..even with this use a deflector and finish this small trace area by hand..no damage that way..you can seal the glass to the door frames with duct tape..this will prevent fallout but I advise you to still remove the panels and rgualtors for a thourgh cleaning and relube..you are going to be doing that anyway..go to your local sandblast supply sotre..get .030 grit..set up a heavy tarp backdrop and recycle the sand many times..I got away with about 8-21 dollars worth of sand and still have lots left.. sandblast is just the first step..wet sanding with acid will get the panel as new, fully protected..its a full process but one easily done at home with little outlay of cash...better is the idea you know who is doing the job, pressures used etc etc..I had zero warpage..and you keep the pressure low enough you will not see any red glow or sparks anywhere.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TodFitch Posted March 8, 2011 Report Share Posted March 8, 2011 I am doing a frame off restoration on my 47 Special Deluxe 4 door sedan.Has anyone had experience with one of the Pressurized Abrasive Blaster, like you by at Harbor Freight? I have had my body, doors and other Items Soda Blasted but it does not remove the rust. I paid someone to Blast my Frame Manifolds and rear end but really would like to do small sections at a time sort of blast and repair then blast some more. Anyone have any suggestions? "Frame Manifolds"? I think I missed those on my car, what ever they are. For small parts I really like the electrolytic rust removal process. But I guess that might not be a good method for the doors and body. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Flanagan Posted March 8, 2011 Report Share Posted March 8, 2011 I used a Harbor Freight blaster too. You might go through a few valves, as they are cheap. Keep your sand dry. Once the opening in the ceramic nozzle gets too wide from all the sand passing through it, it will no longer be effective and you'll have to put in a new one. I screened my sand as I poured it into the blaster so I didn't wind up with pebbles that will stop everything. You'll be glad you used a screen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted March 8, 2011 Report Share Posted March 8, 2011 that is supposed to read to prevent ingest of sand and 18-21 dollars worth of sand..at the time in my area it was 3.25 a hundred lb bag...do use the sandblasting sand as it is a consistant measured grit, washed and filtered...and another note..do this before the temp get up there..it get hot and nasty under the protective clothing while sandblasting.. I did have pictures on here but with the killing of my photobucket account the links are probably broken..but under my profile here I have some pictures of it in one of the three albums under my name..shows some before during and after shots.. http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/album.php?albumid=2&page=2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chester Brzostowski Posted March 9, 2011 Report Share Posted March 9, 2011 The best $139 bucks I ever spent on tools. Chet... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Specialdeluxe47 Posted March 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2011 Thanks everyone for your advice, I will be getting one soon. TodFitch I am shocked that you of all people do not have one of the rare and exotic “Frame Manifold” LOL. The rust removal by electrolysis method I hear works well. Correct me if I am wrong but you use a 10 amp 12 volt DC battery charger connect the Positive lead to the part, the negative lead to a piece of steel. Place in water and the rust is removed. Do you add baking soda to the water? On avarage how long do you leave ir running? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rustyzman Posted March 12, 2011 Report Share Posted March 12, 2011 If you are going to do electrolytic rust removal, I'd recommend that you get a couple gallons of concrete cleaner (phosphoric acid) and a five gallon bucket and give acid dipping a shot. I have a bucket of it ready at all times and it works great. I have done electrolytic but find it is slower and leaves far more residue on the part than the acid does. Remember, steel only though, other metals will vanish as if by magic. Ask me how I know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eneto-55 Posted March 12, 2011 Report Share Posted March 12, 2011 Some concete cleaner is Muriatic acid, so make sure you get Phosphoric acid, like Rusty suggests. Muriatic acid is a lot faster, but when you pull the part out you can literally see it rust before your eyes. Phosphoric acid is what metal etch is made of. (Muriatic acid is great if you are going to go right to the plating tank.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockable Posted March 15, 2011 Report Share Posted March 15, 2011 I used a Harbor Freight blaster too. You might go through a few valves, as they are cheap. Keep your sand dry. Once the opening in the ceramic nozzle gets too wide from all the sand passing through it, it will no longer be effective and you'll have to put in a new one. I screened my sand as I poured it into the blaster so I didn't wind up with pebbles that will stop everything. You'll be glad you used a screen. What Joe Said!!! If you don't screen your media, you will be stopping often to depressurize the pot and blow out pebbles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Yergin Posted March 15, 2011 Report Share Posted March 15, 2011 Joe didn't mention the need to also screen the sand if you have cats. Jim Yergin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Flanagan Posted March 15, 2011 Report Share Posted March 15, 2011 Funny you should remember that. I know I'll never forget it. Needless to say, a cat turd will not pass through your sandlaster and I don't think you'd want it to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted March 15, 2011 Report Share Posted March 15, 2011 Is this the same "cats" Rodney is always talking about:eek: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Flanagan Posted March 15, 2011 Report Share Posted March 15, 2011 That's a different kind of cat in Rodney's universe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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