knighthawk Posted March 27, 2011 Author Report Posted March 27, 2011 here's a repair kit I'd like to share.....I never knew about it, till I asked the NAPA store for some insulation wrap for my the heat tube for the choke. The insulated wrap makes the choke warm up faster and pull the choke off quicker, as the air flow from the fan tends to keep it cool. This kit is made to replace a broken off or rusted out choke hot air tube. This bolt looking thing is threaded into your exhaust manifold someplace, and the little plug included is to plug off the broken or rusted off opening...... I thought this would be a good thing to know.... Quote
knighthawk Posted April 15, 2011 Author Report Posted April 15, 2011 So, the car is finally painted, painted the left fender, right door and left front fender top twice.... the hood was looking real good, til I decided to ''blow '' some thinner thru the paint gun IN the garage ! Too lazy to step outside !......Anyway rear seats are re covered, working on trying to do a door panel today, front bucket material came yesterday, new rear bumper comming today, windsheild comming one day this week. LOT's of work to do .... Quote
P-12 Tommy Posted April 16, 2011 Report Posted April 16, 2011 Wow! It's coming along rather nicely! Good job! A friend of mine had a white '69 Hurst Olds back in the 70's. Tom Quote
knighthawk Posted May 4, 2011 Author Report Posted May 4, 2011 one thing ;;; cover any foammwith plastic befoe sliding the cover on ! I promise you it will NOT slide on with out it ! Quote
TodFitch Posted May 4, 2011 Report Posted May 4, 2011 Impressive project and it looks like it is coming out very nice. Quote
knighthawk Posted May 6, 2011 Author Report Posted May 6, 2011 well, it ha s a major overheating problem, #1 it seems that when you use a bigger cam, like a ''thumper ''cam, or in this case Mundello's (known for high performance Olds parts ) version ,, the increase in duraration causes thinner fuel mixture ,( due to the leftover exhaust gas) takes longer to ignite, requireing a earlier spark (timming ) advance. In stead of about 6 degrees it needs 12... plus totall adv something like 35, and no vac adv . etc ........ .if not it will run crappy and overheat ! #2, took rad out to get checked.... result : only about 20 % cooling , so I ordered a custom made aluminum rad, was cheaper the the one from NAPA with the plastic tanks......... I will double check all this info with a retired engine builder and instructor I know, but of course he;s out of town till next week ! ...... so maybe by this time next week ................ Quote
knighthawk Posted May 6, 2011 Author Report Posted May 6, 2011 here's a pic of what it looked like in the daylite Quote
p15-1948 Posted May 8, 2011 Report Posted May 8, 2011 So how did you come out on the cooling issue? Mike Quote
knighthawk Posted May 10, 2011 Author Report Posted May 10, 2011 talked to the '' instructor '' tonite, he says.... the timing will not have that big of an affect on it ( overheating) , cause I'm going for the ''thumper'' sound and not for big performance. I ask, what should the timing be then ? He says where ever it makes the best sound..... Typical teacher !!!!!!! So, he gives me this big $1000 timing lite, has all these lights and buttons on it, ngives me a '' crash coruse'' on how to use it, AND how to check and adjust the mechanical and vacumn advance.. all in about 10 minutes !!........ MAN !!! I felt like I just skipped three grades of high school !.... AHH, he says ''you'll figure it out ''......but, in the mean time, the rad............ the wife picked up the new nice pretty aluminum radiator, got it home put it next to the old ..guess what ? the hose inlet is too small !!( probable for a Chevy, cause everythign else is different on the Olds ) so, I'm guessing it'll be a few days more for as duifferent rad. .......so..........answer to your question '',So how did you come out on the cooling issue?'' is, not yet.........more to come Quote
knighthawk Posted May 11, 2011 Author Report Posted May 11, 2011 well......new rad is in , not quite an excact fit in the original brackets, but i got it eventually. Overheating issue.....still overheats, kinda..... the temp will increase will sitting and idleing, but when you rev it up to about 2000 rpm's , create some more air flow, it cools right down. I'm told that a 'new and tight' motor may run a little warm till it's broke in........so... good enough for now. The timing lite I borrowed is awesome ! You mark the damper AND the scale (degree thingy ) at 0, bump the timing lite up (by watching the numbers on the lite itself ) to 10 dgrees, for example, so of course the timing marks (lite flashes) on the scale will move accordingly, turn the dist, to bring the marks back to ), and it's at 10 degrees. touch another buttom, and you get the RPM reading, you can monitor the timing, and total advance, including the mechanical and the vacumn adv, alll the way up to 20 or 30 degrees, while your scale on the motor (or damper) only reads up to maybe 10...Anyway, my end result tells me I'm not getting enough vac advance, so I need to check in the dist, see what's going on there.............meanwhile, I'm hearing some clatter from the valve cover area , ( a lifter maybe ), but mine are not adjustable lifters.....so will pull a vavle cover today............. Quote
knighthawk Posted May 13, 2011 Author Report Posted May 13, 2011 I called Mundello in Calif, they make the high performance Olds stuff, asked about the noisy non adjustable lifters, the kid said he didn't know, someone will call me back, and of course they must have ''forgot'' ! Boss man will be back on monday, will try then. The instructor friend of mine said sometimes new lifters are tight inside and will free up after it gets warm, should get better after motor is broken in.....we'll see....... I need to repaint the rad shroud and 'core support' , but kinda cold today......new caliper mounting brackets comming on monday , for the disc brakes, as the ones in the disc brake conversion kit were bent....... Boy ! talk about 3 steps forward, 2 steps back !!!!! This close to getting done, and it's taking forever ! Quote
yourpc48 Posted July 2, 2011 Report Posted July 2, 2011 Hows this project coming along? Looks like you were almost done with body stuff last post. At the rate you were going I would imagine the car is finished. Quote
knighthawk Posted July 3, 2011 Author Report Posted July 3, 2011 I had a overheating problem....found out the fan that in it was the wrong one, Got a new fan and clutch for it , not installed yet. A good fan needs a good 2'' pitch to the blades, old one only had 1''. Carb getting too hot, very hard to re-start when hot. I kept the exhaust cross over in the intake in order to keep the exhaust heated choke set up. I should have blocked the exhaust passage off when I built the motor and put in a hand choke. So...... I'm experimenting making an heat insulator block for the carb out of wood. Top fuel racers do it, so it should work. I tried to install the convertable top myself, I couldn't get it straight enough, so i took it to a 'shop' , he said it was a 'bitch' , some thing about it being a poor quality top, charged me $600, and I don't like the way it fits yet, he says leave it in the sun for as while...........getting closer......... Quote
yourpc48 Posted July 3, 2011 Report Posted July 3, 2011 I was looking at the radiator post and it reminded me that the Olds that my mom has, has a 350 in it. That may be the radiator they got in for you. Just sayin. Looking good. I have made wood carb spacers before and they do work. Quote
knighthawk Posted July 6, 2011 Author Report Posted July 6, 2011 I tried to put the new fan and clutch on yesterday , well, the threads to the water pump seemed to hang up , so I ran a tap thru them..... wrong tap ! I assumed they were course threads, and of course they were fine, so, after ruining the threads, I had to drill out and install threads inserts, and only having a few inches between the WP and rad, had to use angle adapter in the drill, took almost all day ! finally got the WP repaired, put new fan and clutch in , now the fan hits on the PS pulley. Parts Place where I got it from, says it's the right one ???????? Called NAPA , young ( new) guy there said he find ANY fan clutch in the computor ! Think I'll call OPGI or Year One..... Still ain't got to looking at the 'new' top the fits poorly......wood spacer under carb seems to be OK, but I haven't got to try it out hot yet, wish I could get this fan thing ................. I think I'll just send it back and use the one I found (good one ) and mount it with out the clutch, that did fit and seemed to work ................. Quote
knighthawk Posted July 16, 2011 Author Report Posted July 16, 2011 well kinda done, The fan with 2'' of pitch works ! it will NOT overheat ! Engines runs great. It had a little ''flutter'' when you rev up the motor, plugging the vac adv off cured that. ( Has enough adv already with the cam and timing ) The ONLY thing left , is the top adjustment next week and the new front bumper ($450) next month. Quote
yourpc48 Posted July 16, 2011 Report Posted July 16, 2011 Great Job. The car looked great in the pictures you posted last. Quote
knighthawk Posted July 18, 2011 Author Report Posted July 18, 2011 thanks for the kind remarks....just for that, here's what it looks like today Quote
yourpc48 Posted July 19, 2011 Report Posted July 19, 2011 Very cool. Now go have some fun with it! Hey! My mom has a Skylark about 69-70-71 ish. Hard top. Need another project? LOL Quote
knighthawk Posted July 19, 2011 Author Report Posted July 19, 2011 my wife said , I have to get back to working on the house......you see, she has this list................... Quote
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