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Posted

My horn never worked. I took it apart tonight to see if there was anything loose inside. I found one wire that came loose when I touched it, so I replaced that wire and I soldered it.

I read another post that said something about cleaning contacts...but no other details.

What are the contacts and how do I clean them?

Here's a picture of what I'm looking at.

Horn.jpg

Is there any way to test the horn out with a multi-meter to see if it's in working order?

There's an adjustment screw that comes through the backside of the horn...how close should that be to contact on the inside?

Posted

On the left side of your picture there is a triangle shapped piece with 2 rivets at one end and one on the other. The single rivet is holding the contact you need to clean. Then hook it to your battery charger and see if it honks.

Posted

If you have one of those old metal finger nail files , that will file your points . make sure that the points are clean too . Sometimes when testing the horn directly on your battery the voltage will be a little higher then when hooked up in your vehicle . So you might have to adjust the points twice .

Posted

I got it to work...but it sounds more like a loud buzzer than a horn. Is that what it's supposed to sound like?

In had it connected to a 12v battery charger. Sounded the same at the 2amp and 10amp setting.

Posted

Did you reassemble the horn before you tested it? If you tested it as pictured it would sound like a buzzer. The trumpet bell is what gives it the horn noise. It is was all together try adjusting the tone screw and see what happens.

Merle

Posted

I put it all back together. The horn just makes it sound like a louder buzzer.

There are two adjustment studs on the back. Neither really seemed to change it much. If I tighten the outer one too much, it stops it from vibrating at all.

I will go take a video and post it in a bit.

Posted

Here's a short video..it's a pretty faithful reproduction of the sound.

http://s26.photobucket.com/albums/c105/DanBabb/53Dodge/?action=view&current=DSCF2797.mp4

How does this compare to your horn? I looked at the diaphragm when I put it back together and it doesn't appear to have any cracks in it. The underside has a little tab that sticks out...it points down toward the single rivet on the triangle piece in the picture at the top of this post. Is that correct?

Posted

Yep, that thar's a buzzer. If ya ever catch an episode of M*A*S*H when one of the M37 ambulances lays on the horn, that's purty close to what it should sound like. I recall a thin paper gasket on either side of the vibrator; I think this isolates the vibrator from the horn bell so that there's a slight ringing that amplifies out the bell.

Posted

I don't have a gasket in there now....will it help at all?

I really want to use the stock horn (since it works), so if that sound is correct, then I'll keep it. Just wanted to make sure it's not busted.

Posted (edited)

that buzzing noise is the metal-on-metal sound as the vibrator plate rattles between the trumpet bell and the vibrator. With a thin paper perimeter gasket between the bell & the vibrator plate and between the vibrator & the vibrator plate, the plate becomes isolated and can produce a ringing noise. If ya play the drums, it's the difference between a closed high-hat and an open high-hat.

Edited by JBNeal
added video
Posted

Frankie I think you are onto something. He should use the battery in the car to try it.

Posted

I made gaskets for the horn and put them in. I also fiddled around with the tone adjustment stud (the one to the outside) and it sounds a lot better now.

I think the gasket did help isolated the diaphragm, so it's able to move a bit freer and doesn't vibrate the horn, so I don't get that buzzing sound.

Thanks for the tip.

I don't really know what that adjustment stud in the center does. Fiddling with that didn't seem to change the sound at all.

  • Like 1
Posted

this made me tear into my horn last night as well...cleaning it today and getting the horn bell powder coated Monday. What dd you use for the paper gaskets?

Posted

I went to the auto parts store and bought a package of gasket paper that they sell. It was around $8 or $9 for a roll of it.

It's that blue paper that looks like what water pump gaskets are made out of. It's a bit thicker than what you need, but everything fit once I bolted it back together.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

i just fixed mine yesterday- all it needed was taking apart, cleaning the contact points with some 220 grit paper, some di-electric grease for the contacts and re-assembly. the paper gasket was good on mine, so didnt need to fix that.

Also, if you are testing it, dont use a battery charger- it doesnt have enough current for it. i tried it after and it sounded the same, just a weak buzzing sound. hooked it up to the battery and WHOA!!! sucker is loud !! :)

  • 4 years later...
Posted (edited)

I am trying to fix up 1 of these horns and I have it apart, but I am getting a dead short across it when I energize.

Not sure where the paper gaskets go?

It looks just like the previous pictures.

I will keep poking around and post updates.

Thanks for now

Neil

Checked the coil, it appears ok.

Checked the wire wound resistor, it also appears ok.

Will do some more research and tackle it again tomorrow or Sunday.

Neil

Edited by 1950 Special Deluxe
  • 8 years later...
Posted

Good Day,

I just picked up a 53 Dodge C and was hoping to gain some of your knowledge.  My horn doesn't work. I took it apart and found one wire off so I soldered it back to the post.  I also cleaning the contacts.  Still no joy.  The only noise I set when connecting it to my 6V battery is a click.  Every time I touch the lead to the battery ... click.  No buzz ...

 

I don't quite understand where you are placing a gasket as mentioned above.   Thoughts ???

Posted

Originally there was a thin paper gasket on both sides of the vibrator to isolate it from the bell and the coil end.

 

Back in '98, I used a brown paper bag (thicker than the ones they dole out at the liquor store; hardware store has the best) to trace one gasket out and cut with a sharp utility knife.  I also had to solder a new wire in there as the original was kaput.

20240909_200518.jpg.b9e4f39ad4d7d90cc64c2b73bcfd7a33.jpg

 

I had some leftover gasket paper that I used to make the other.

20240909_200445.jpg.86626a248748c006028114841f71a5dd.jpg

 

I had painted the whole horn after I put it together, and it was clear that I did not clean it enough as it was getting rust spots on it by '99.  But the Rustoleum has held up decent, as the rust is minimal surface variety.  When put on the truck, it be LOUD (like in the video) :cool:

  • Like 1
Posted

If the horn is the same as the B series, you may have to clean the contacts (done it seems)and/or make adjustments on the set screws on back.  I had to dial mine in a bit to get a good "honk".

  • Like 1
Posted

Appreciate the replies.  I do have all of the gaskets as shown in your images.  I have filed the contacts and adjusted the screws multiple times.  All I get is a "click" when touching leads to the 6V battery.  No buzzing .. just click.  Additional thoughts are welcome ...

 

Can I order a 55 horn and bolt it up to my 53 horn tube?

Posted (edited)

this might or might not help:

 

additional information - Autolite HA-4032-D horn adjustments

 

https://youtube.com/watch?v=e9lKbVxTQVE&si=Idme0myT6tcycse6

 

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/e9lKbVxTQVE?si=KCQficdAJXEvh-Ni" title="YouTube video player" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share" referrerpolicy="strict-origin-when-cross-origin" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

Edited by JBNeal
embed video feature not working
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Appreciate the videos.  I cut out and installed new gaskets.  Followed the videos and now we have a functioning horn.

 

Thanks !!!

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