bbuswell Posted December 23, 2010 Report Posted December 23, 2010 bbusswell,Thanks for the info. That's exactly what I'm hoping to do with my '40. Which transmission are you using? Brian I'm using a nwc T5 I purchased from Tom Langdon and a Paul Curtis adapter plate. The input shaft extension he provided broke so I made a similar one out of steel and it seems to work fine. I had to have the transmission input shaft collar turned down so the stock throw out would fit over it. Other than that it was pretty easy. On my 39 the tranny didn't interfer with anything and I didn't have to make and frame or cross member changes. Quote
Mopar-Boy Posted October 16, 2020 Report Posted October 16, 2020 This is FANTASTIC info! Getting my 230 delivered next week. Quote
48ply1stcar Posted October 17, 2020 Report Posted October 17, 2020 On 10/16/2020 at 6:30 AM, Mopar-Boy said: This is FANTASTIC info! Getting my 230 delivered next week. What car are you putting the 230 in and what engine are you replaceing? Was the 230 from a Automatic or standard shift. Where is the oil sump on each engine? Quote
Mopar-Boy Posted October 17, 2020 Report Posted October 17, 2020 48ply, the 230 came out of a 48 coronet according to the add. it is coming w a three speed manual still attached. It will replace a 201 now sitting in a 33 dodge dp6. I will have both motors, both trannys, both bellhousings and starters. Thanks, MoparBoy 1 Quote
Richard Cope Posted October 18, 2020 Report Posted October 18, 2020 A lot of great information, I have a 39 Ply. business coupe and have been considering removing the stock 201 engine put in storage and replace with a 230. Want to retain the stock bellhousing, transmission with floor shift and foot pedal starter. The car also has a Mitchells overdrive & split drive shafts, with a short one between the overdrive & transmission. Since would be using the same bellhousing, doesn't appear that the location of the transmission would change with the 230 engine. Space is tight for the front drive shaft & concerned if the location were to change the driveshaft angle would change. Could the thickness of the crankshaft flange be a concern? Any thoughts? Do Plymouth 230 engines have a 4 bolt crankshaft, which may make the change a little more direct, however probably more Dodge 230 engines available. With the overdrive the 39 transmission performs nice, especially second gear, however a little more torque would be helpful. Regards, Quote
Mopar-Boy Posted October 21, 2020 Report Posted October 21, 2020 Richard, just took the tranny off of my dodge 230. it has an eight bolt flange that bolts to the fluid drive. Quote
Richard Cope Posted October 24, 2020 Report Posted October 24, 2020 Keep us updated on components you will be using and any issues when replacing the 201 Regards, Quote
Mopar-Boy Posted October 31, 2020 Report Posted October 31, 2020 @Jim Yergin Jim, did your 230 come out of a truck? Asking because you said flywheel vs fluiddrive. If it IS a flywheel motor, was the crank flange thinner (vs on a FD motor)? Trying to decide the best approach to mate a 49 FD 230 to a 33 dodge dp6 201 three speed. I like what @Don Coatney did to install a longblock but might wait to find a spare ‘33 bellhousing to do that! Need to find one... Afraid of destroying mine with no backup plan. Also guessing if FD flange is thicker, that might mean even more offset/more metal to remove. Quote
Jim Yergin Posted October 31, 2020 Report Posted October 31, 2020 Mopar-Boy, it was a long time ago but I think the 230 came out of a Dodge Power Wagon. It had a flywheel but I do not know if the crank flange was thinner than on a FD motor. Jim Yergin Quote
Mopar-Boy Posted October 31, 2020 Report Posted October 31, 2020 @Don Coatney Don, I know this was a long time ago, but any idea how much was machined out of the starter mount pad? Quote
TodFitch Posted October 31, 2020 Report Posted October 31, 2020 57 minutes ago, Mopar-Boy said: @Don Coatney Don, I know this was a long time ago, but any idea how much was machined out of the starter mount pad? Don passed away. It is to his credit that some of his thread/topics have long survived him. Quote
Mopar-Boy Posted October 31, 2020 Report Posted October 31, 2020 Makes me sad that I just found this site/this community. Clearly Don was a knowledgeable and generous resource. Thank you for letting me know, TodFitch. Quote
DJ194950 Posted October 31, 2020 Report Posted October 31, 2020 1 hour ago, Mopar-Boy said: Makes me sad that I just found this site/this community. Clearly Don was a knowledgeable and generous resource. Thank you for letting me know, TodFitch. Your correct in your comments. He was also often entertaining with posts/comments and also had strong opinions on some things and was not afraid to state them! Sure kept things lively. I understand he was among one of the First members on the forum and past related ones as it was updated over the years, beyond my 8-10 years here. WE had some run ins but I do miss him totally!! My last contact was a PM after we were told on the forum that he was quite sick and he told me he and I were just fine after the years of butting heads and both trying to contribute here-- He was Way- Way more of a contributor than I was or ever will be. And his photos- Seemed to have a great pic ( always clear, clean part(s) and focused) of almost every thing he ever worked on. Helped thousands here for sure with them. A real loss !! DJ Quote
48ply1stcar Posted November 1, 2020 Report Posted November 1, 2020 17 hours ago, Mopar-Boy said: @Don Coatney Don, I know this was a long time ago, but any idea how much was machined out of the starter mount pad? It was 3/8 of and inch. I tried to find the tread that told how and why. I was in constant contact with Don Coatney when I got to that part of putting it back together. The picture is of Don's bellhousing Quote
wayfarer Posted November 1, 2020 Report Posted November 1, 2020 You might want to re-visit Don's thread and 2x check the depth of the cut. I do believe that it should be 3/16". Recall that the smaller Plymouths, 201-208-218, have a slightly different crankshaft than all others. The face of the crank flange is only 1" from the face of the block; all other engines are 1-3/16 and the 3/16" difference is made up in the flywheels. Quote
48ply1stcar Posted November 1, 2020 Report Posted November 1, 2020 (edited) 7 hours ago, Mopar-Boy said: Thanks 48Ply1stcar! Wow, I didn't even read my own post, it was 3/16 Edited November 1, 2020 by 48ply1stcar Quote
Mopar-Boy Posted November 11, 2020 Report Posted November 11, 2020 well... sadly my 230 had a cracked block that showed up coming out of the vat. Anyone have a source for rebuildable cores? Closer to Atlanta the better! Thanks again. Quote
P15-D24 Posted November 11, 2020 Report Posted November 11, 2020 If you have all the 230 internals, I.E. rods, crank, flywheel you can use a block from a 218 for a core. Quote
Mopar-Boy Posted November 12, 2020 Report Posted November 12, 2020 I have all the guts! Will crank, oil pan, timing cover, etc bolt right up (clearance w frame notwithstanding...)? Quote
P15-D24 Posted November 12, 2020 Report Posted November 12, 2020 What is casting number on the block you have? I will check Hollanders for block that interchange. Quote
P15-D24 Posted November 12, 2020 Report Posted November 12, 2020 Look further back on the side of the block by the distributor, should be something like 1119729 or 1326299 or 1484929. Blocks with 1119729 and 1326299 are also used on the 218 blocks. Also what is the crank forge number? It's cast on the crank. Quote
Mopar-Boy Posted November 12, 2020 Report Posted November 12, 2020 1311804 3 on the block. I still have the crank at the machine shop Quote
P15-D24 Posted November 12, 2020 Report Posted November 12, 2020 Hummm, that number shows up as a head casting number. Let me check another reference book. Quote
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