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Don Coatney

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2 hours ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

love the weenie dog tool pouch, tools at your command...all you got to keep in your pocket is a doggie treat...

Think you mean "tool Pooch"!

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  • 4 months later...

Latest creation....this is phase one and useable as it, once I find my metal for telescoping the columns, that mod will be done complete with larger heavier bases and larger caster wheel assemblies that I have laid aside for this already.  Will fabricate a chain hook for when stowed.  

 

 

 

assembled 2.JPG

IMG_0490.JPG

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5 hours ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

Latest creation....this is phase one and useable as it, once I find my metal for telescoping the columns, that mod will be done complete with larger heavier bases and larger caster wheel assemblies that I have laid aside for this already.  Will fabricate a chain hook for when stowed.  

 

 

 

assembled 2.JPG

IMG_0490.JPG

 

I believe "Sky hooks" like your's are the only way to work!

After working with those lousy cherry picker engine hoists for years I refuse to deal with them ever again.

I have a Harbor Freight version of your hoist.

Its very stable moves a lot easier than the cherry pickers and can be elevated as needed.

The Yale round block I have is an antique and the whole set up was used to unload a 2,300 lbs Detroit Diesel 2-71 generator set from a pickup. It did this without complaint even though the combination is rated at 1 ton only.

My only complaint is that it isn't wide enough to lift something from a flatbed truck or a trailer. It can go high enough but it is too narrow. So I have a larger and longer I-beam for the next time I get "a round to it" and fix that issue.

What I like about these is the fact they will roll easily with a load ( the larger wheels have a lot to do with this ). You can move forwards and backwards just by tugging on the vertical columns ( you don't have to move the car ). Side to side is easy because your round block is on rollers above. Add a tilting engine balance and you can install long engines with the transmission installed ( within limits of course ).

If anyone still likes the cherry picker style I have one ( with a spare cylinder new in the box ) I'll sell cheap!

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This one started out as the very base model you have....my brother gave it to me as it was slightly overloaded (yeah right, I can read a crime scene) damaged the roller bases.   The original beam I agree with you is too narrow and the overall height is less than adequate for unloading anything from a truck or trailer.  I have 10 1/2 foot of drive through on this.   As you can see, I extended the upper plates and added gussets, went to a fully captured beam clamp I welded together over that of the small contact cleats.  It has been fun project....should be a nice addition to the shop.  This is also designed for take down and assembly with a cherry picker and will use a homebuilt lifting jig for smaller footprint should  you need to do long term storage.  

 

 

 

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for those that have an extra or no longer need their cherry pickers....they can be of further use to the average home shop.  I converted one of my older units to larger casters with pneumatic tires for rolling along on the turf between the shop and barn and fabrication tables.  It also has a quick pin on tow bar so I can use the lawn tractor to move these items.  I have lifted and rolled full length 4 post lift runways, engines, frames and frame clips, and large chunks of tree stumps one cannot split due to their massive size and loaded these onto a trailer for hauling off.  Very much a handy item and has bailed me out many times over.  May be a useful upgrade you could make for yourself to capture full potential of the device.

 

 

IMG_4710.JPG

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IMG_3976.JPG

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1 hour ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

for those that have an extra or no longer need their cherry pickers....they can be of further use to the average home shop.  I converted one of my older units to larger casters with pneumatic tires for rolling along on the turf between the shop and barn and fabrication tables.  It also has a quick pin on tow bar so I can use the lawn tractor to move these items.  I have lifted and rolled full length 4 post lift runways, engines, frames and frame clips, and large chunks of tree stumps one cannot split due to their massive size and loaded these onto a trailer for hauling off.  Very much a handy item and has bailed me out many times over.  May be a useful upgrade you could make for yourself to capture full potential of the device.

 

 

IMG_4710.JPG

IMG_4701.JPG

IMG_4700.JPG

IMG_3976.JPG

Quick call the authorities, there's a fuzzy old man in your back yard trying to steel your mower, hoist and a piece of firewood!

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they have tried to run that old man off for years, never successful....lol  One day I am going to do the math on keeping the hair and the beard.  The beard has been around since 2003, mustache since 1971, struck the razor across that face for the last time the morning of my AF retirement ceremony.  The hair, 9 years later when I retired from my civilian job.  Think in an earlier time I may have been related to a wooly mammoth and reclaiming my identity.   The hair and beard stays the same length and never is trimmed.   The mustache gets trimmed pretty regularly. 

 

Happy New Years to everyone.....stay safe....roll call in 2023

Edited by Plymouthy Adams
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Is it insulated?  With a kitchen/ full bathroom?

 

For rent?  ?  ?

 

Have a good new year!!

 

DJ

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On 12/29/2022 at 8:20 PM, Loren said:

 

I believe "Sky hooks" like your's are the only way to work!

After working with those lousy cherry picker engine hoists for years I refuse to deal with them ever again.

I have a Harbor Freight version of your hoist.

Its very stable moves a lot easier than the cherry pickers and can be elevated as needed.

The Yale round block I have is an antique and the whole set up was used to unload a 2,300 lbs Detroit Diesel 2-71 generator set from a pickup. It did this without complaint even though the combination is rated at 1 ton only.

My only complaint is that it isn't wide enough to lift something from a flatbed truck or a trailer. It can go high enough but it is too narrow. So I have a larger and longer I-beam for the next time I get "a round to it" and fix that issue.

What I like about these is the fact they will roll easily with a load ( the larger wheels have a lot to do with this ). You can move forwards and backwards just by tugging on the vertical columns ( you don't have to move the car ). Side to side is easy because your round block is on rollers above. Add a tilting engine balance and you can install long engines with the transmission installed ( within limits of course ).

If anyone still likes the cherry picker style I have one ( with a spare cylinder new in the box ) I'll sell cheap!

If you weren't so far from here (Ohio), I'd offer to buy that extra cylinder.  My only shop space is (currently) in a garage under an apartment I rent for my business, and so it's not only on the low side, but there's also no way to lift something of much weight from above.  I bought an old cherry picker (never having used one), and it needs a new cylinder now.  

Back home we had a huge A-frame that my grandpa had built to split tractors with, and in Dad's shop we had the ability to lift from the rafters with a chain hoist.  (Lifted the body off of my 46 that way.)

My son-in-law is a fan of 2-post lifts, but I think that if I put one in the shop I'm planning to build in the next year or so, it will be a 4-post.  (I just like the additional stability.  May be nonsense, but that's my feeling on the matter.)

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I agree four posts are less scary!

With a four post you don't need to worry if the slab is appropriate.

Harbor Freight has the hydraulic jacks for about $60. Best to take the dead one and see if they have a match.

At that price it's not worth messing with the old one.

If you buy two so you have a spare and you'll never use it. If you buy one...well you're taking your chances. lol

Before you start a job you need the cherry picker for I would spray the daylights out of the casters with PB Blaster.

They are usually just awful. With a low ceiling you're stuck with a cherry picker. So I understand and feel your pain.

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Other than installing a motor when the front clip is off the car, a cherry picker has limited uses. I find a chain block is much safer in any case. I am kinda weary of "across the pond made"  hydraulic cylinders found in certain discount tool outlets. I am glad that some people are keeping with the made in America credo and building set ups that are beyond any quality that is industry made nowadays. I think that I will be selling my discount tool store cherry picker to free up room in the shop since my motor installation phase is behind me. M

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  • 3 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...

For the record...today was crane proofing day.  My crane scale came in and set the unit for testing.  Target goal for working capacity I set at 1000 lbs as this pus the 25% additional, is just shy the rating of my trolley.

 

max allowed defection     .240 inch

max working load deflection   .166

1056 load was .091 deflection

1250 (with weight of chainfall 1265)  .106 deflection

 

 

unladen, returns to zero...repeat lift, repeat deflection and weight and again returns to zero   

 

I will state I have met my goal of a 1K gantry  and safety tested to working capacity plus 25%  with a deflection margin of .060 for working and .134 before I-beam damage would be likely.   I will eventually test this to 1500 lbs. but will need to move it to another location for this.  

 

I feel good about this build now.  

Edited by Plymouthy Adams
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3 minutes ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

For the record...today was crane proofing day.  My crane scale came in and set the unit for testing.  Target goad for working capacity is 1000 lbs as this pus the 25% additional, is just shy the rating of my trolley.

 

max allowed defection     .240 inch

max working load deflection   .166

1056 load was .091 deflection

1250 (with weight of chainfall 1265)  .106 deflection

 

 

unladen, returns to zero...repeat lift, repeat deflection and weight, returns to zero   

 

I will state I have met my goal of a 1K gantry  and safety tested to working capacity plus 25%  with a deflection margin of .060 for working and .134 before I-beam damage would be likely.   I will eventually test this to 1500 lbs. but will need to move it to another location for this.  

 

I feel good about this build now.  

How is this testing done?  Is it done by a licensed company, or by a government agency?

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private owned gantry private built....I tested per established parameters of the metal used and not like most you see on you-tube who measure but not against a calculated deflection.  Proofing is testing safe repeating working capacity based again on the industry formulas for a steel beam.   Added weight and read beam deflection by dial indicator as I continued to add weight and read deflection.  The dial indicator lets you can see the deflection as it is laden as well as you can see the weight read out as you make the lift adding the weight during the lift.  Then weight was taken to 25% over working rate and again well below the established limit of a steel beam by industry established formula.  My working rate is well below formula calculated working rate and less than half the rating for possible beam stress where spring may be distorted or lost.   If you can show me where this is wrong then I am all ears....

 

 

 

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Thanks.

(I wasn't "questioning" your testing methods or results - I was asking for information, and you explained well enough that I think I could take it from there, with some research to get the standards and formulas you were using.  But I'm not building anything like that now, so don't go to any more trouble to explain further.)

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