Show your tools.

[Plymouthy Adams]

Was not sure if you were a person who did qualified testing of lifts and cranes.  When and if you do find yourself wanting to build or lift safely, there are formulas.  Often not that easy to find.  The single biggest issue was finding how to establish working limits.  The beam is one set of numbers, working rate is a percentage of that.  Doing the math it was 69.7% of max beam deflection.  DO NOT search using the word test....I found this formula only when I read on PROOFING crane capacity.  Jib crane, gantry and well, all different cranes have a formula, it is different on style crane, formula is different with steel verse aluminum.  I have recorded these simple figures....nothing hard about it excepting finding information.   I worked my formula and wished to rate it well below what might be max capacity.   I have a second gantry crane I have built but have not erected, it is much heavier built unit and will test it one day down the road.  I modifed the car rotesserie to also be a gantry.  Base is factory rated for 3K..I will test the beam and bases.  Bases have another formula altogether for concentrated deflection also just as a FYI    OSHA will test by deflection, they will base this on the established value on the data tag.  In the absence of any tag, they will default to the very formula I used and technically you only need one measurement.     Any crane that was modified and or repaired must again be proofed.  Trust me, I put a lot of research into building this crane, making it not only a decent looking unit, but safe for load and the lifter. 

[Los_Control]

I have to laugh at our fathers & Grandfathers.

I grew up on a 75 acre parcel of land. While there were two houses A large barn, A 3 or 4 car garage with dirt floor.

There was a few out buildings also ... including a outhouse.

 

My father had a set of planks that extended over the hill, was some post under the ramps .... he drove on to the planks, then walked the trail to get under the car & change the oil .... Today I wonder if he even caught the oil in a bucket .... crude & rude.

 

I'm only saying that qualified lifting & testing our fathers would get a good laugh.

While it is good to see it .... common sense plays a big role.

 

[Eneto-55]

11 hours ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

Was not sure if you were a person who did qualified testing of lifts and cranes.  When and if you do find yourself wanting to build or lift safely, there are formulas.  Often not that easy to find.  The single biggest issue was finding how to establish working limits.  The beam is one set of numbers, working rate is a percentage of that.  Doing the math it was 69.7% of max beam deflection.  DO NOT search using the word test....I found this formula only when I read on PROOFING crane capacity.  Jib crane, gantry and well, all different cranes have a formula, it is different on style crane, formula is different with steel verse aluminum.  I have recorded these simple figures....nothing hard about it excepting finding information.   I worked my formula and wished to rate it well below what might be max capacity.   I have a second gantry crane I have built but have not erected, it is much heavier built unit and will test it one day down the road.  I modifed the car rotesserie to also be a gantry.  Base is factory rated for 3K..I will test the beam and bases.  Bases have another formula altogether for concentrated deflection also just as a FYI    OSHA will test by deflection, they will base this on the established value on the data tag.  In the absence of any tag, they will default to the very formula I used and technically you only need one measurement.     Any crane that was modified and or repaired must again be proofed.  Trust me, I put a lot of research into building this crane, making it not only a decent looking unit, but safe for load and the lifter. 

No, I have no experience in this area.  Your earlier comments just brought to mind the things we did back home.  My grandpa had an A-frame deal welded up out of 2" steel pipe.  I think that he used it to lift his tractor when he needed to separate it.  That's what we used when we were pulling an engine or lifting a car outside.  My Dad's shop was 24' wide, trusses.  All 2x4 construction.  We pulled a 394 Olds and later installed it on a 51 Ford (frame only), lifting from the trusses.  We put a driveshaft through the V in the trusses, spanning at least 3.  That's how we did engine swaps.  We never thought to check for deflection of the trusses.  That's also how I lifted the body off of my 46 Plymouth, with the same set up at both ends.  (The first time I did it, I had the front clip off, and the rear fenders too, because that's where I bolted angle iron to attach at the rear.  The doors were still on.  The second time I had already removed the doors, so it was lighter then.  We also lifted the body off of my brother's 49 DeSoto the same way.

 

I am planning to build a shop soon, and wonder if I can safely do the same, if necessary.  We put up Dad's shop in 67, then added a second section on the front later, perhaps in about 80 or 81.  I imagine that the quality of the pine used in the first section was probably higher than in the second, and both much better than what a person could get on-a-days.  (Unless trusses are always yellow pine, or have higher standards.)  My son-in-law grew up around truss design, as he father owns & operates a truss factory.  My SIL worked there designing trusses, not just for houses, but for large retirement homes, etc.  He did seem a bit 'surprised' when I told him what we used to do.  (He is now designing houses, but occasionally does a truss design for some of the harder jobs that come in at his Dad's business.)

[Plymouthy Adams]

Another tool to add to my traveling inventory...this scissors jack is out of a late model hearse and the pad had a hump in it making it less than friendly for generic use.  Being a heavy made unit, it does not appear to have been used really, I did a bit of slice and dice, weld bead or two, popped a hole in the now flattened pad and inserted a trolley jack saddle.  I removed the swages on the crank handle so I can use a 13/16 socket to run it up and drilled the crank handle for a clevis pin so it can still be used as stock.  Initial cost for the jack was 4.00 and a few minutes of work, dab of paint and I feel I have a very useful item now.  While you still got to be careful with a scissors jack, trust them a bit more than the standard bumper jack.  This is likely to be kept in the 1990 B250 van.

 

63 turns for full rise with the saddle 5 inch lowered to 16 inch full rise height. 

 

 

Edited May 16, 2023 by Plymouthy Adams

[Semmerling]

The fastest way to mount all the brass nuts on the center intake studs. One places the nut on the blue hub and then set the nut on the end of the std. A quick spin and the nut threads right on. All three washers and nuts on in under 2 minutes.

[Plymouthy Adams]

that is a effective trick....I often use a length of tube.....allow you to flex a bit and still get the nut started easily....other times just a tad of tape and the socket/extension length as need. the tube is also an excellent method of starting spark plugs into hard to access areas.....you did good!!

[Semmerling]

Thanks..

Gas line off
Both vacuum lines off
Choke off
Waste line off
Air filter off
Accelerator actuator to linkage off
Exhaust to intake Tower bolts out
Intake off
Exhaust to tail pipe off
Exhaust manifold off
Sparks out

Distributor cap off

Valve Covers off

TDC plug out

Every valve set using the 2X rotation system
All reassembled

 

1 Hour 48 Minutes total...down from 5 hours plus first. 
That tool was good for 10-15 mins right there alone. 

No doubt, that is how the early years addressed the valves. 
Gorgeous access.

Edited May 16, 2023 by Semmerling

[Hickory]

New tool alert. Now I can do my own tires.

[Plymouthy Adams]

excellent, I have that same model, if you do more modern wheels with positive offsets....you may wish to weld a few extra thread cleats on the upper end of the post....I have had mine for at least 38 years now...you may find breaking the bead on some wider rims a two step process breaking the back bead first, then proceed as normal.

 

I do not see your mount/demount bar, this can be had in generic form from NAPA or at least that is where I bought mine as it was missing.  Last year I actually located the original mount demount bar at the wrecking yard....a happy find.  

Edited June 16, 2023 by Plymouthy Adams

[Plymouthy Adams]

I picked these discarded clothes racks up due to damaged casters.  Took both to make one a roller, found Ace Hardware had the caster inserts for excellent price and I had casters on hand.  Cut the one down 6 inches at the bottom of the legs and lowered the now padded rails to lowest position.  Excellent height for wet sanding doors and larger panel.  The rails can be raised approx. 2 foot on 3 inch increments.  The other is still excellent for hanging items for painting and drying rack.   

[Los_Control]

Nice recycle of old junk .... will be very useful

[Plymouthy Adams]

posted wrong thread

 

 

Edited July 1, 2023 by Plymouthy Adams

[Plymouthy Adams]

posted wrong thread

[DonaldSmith]

My favorite wrenches. Craftsman, plus one little odd double-ended open end wrench.  Maybe 25 years old. 

Maybe almost that long ago, my wife sewed together the bag from some cloth I bought to go with the car.

 

Each wrench has a marked pouch (except for the little, odd one).  The flap folds over and is held with hook-and loop. The whole thing rolls up neatly.

 

(I just found the set today, after missing it for months!  It was rolled up, neatly, against some stuff on a garage shelf.)

 

[Plymouthy Adams]

Mk1 Mod II, cut another 5 3/4 inches off the top of the uprights of the above picture work stand which is a modified clothes rack....more comfortable work height and this places it so much easier for me to see the primer finish after i block and squeegee the primer.....staying busy, it is staying wet and rainy

[Hickory]

My latest toy is a valve grinder mounted on an old sun cabinet. Now I've got to get an old sun machine.

[Hickory]

Since you can see my shadow box I will show those too

[desoto1939]

For all of you MoPar guys that has the Pin and Trunion Cross UJoints. I was at the local swap meet and car show and came across 3 complete sets of the Tool to remove and Install then pin that is on the end of the driveshaft.

 

These are rare tools to find and still in the original packaging. I have sold them all but hae a set for myself. They all went to fellow MoPar owners.

 

Rich Hartung

[Eneto-55]

1 hour ago, desoto1939 said:

For all of you MoPar guys that have the Pin and Trunion Cross UJoints. I was at the local swap meet and car show and came across 3 complete sets of the Tool to remove and Install the pin that is on the end of the driveshaft.

 

These are rare tools to find and still in the original packaging. I have sold them all but have a set for myself. They all went to fellow MoPar owners.

 

Rich Hartung

 

 

So, one end is like a punch, and the other end has a round hole in it, to fit over the pin, to keep it straight while starting to press it in?  Something like that?

Edited August 30, 2023 by Eneto-55

[desoto1939]

1 hour ago, Eneto-55 said:

So, one end is like a punch, and the other end has a round hole in it, to fit over the pin, to keep it straight while starting to press it in?  Something like that?

The end that has the hole is used when pushing the pin into the ball. When the end hits the pall then the pin is centered in the ball end.  That is what is implied by the instructions. But it is best to mic the old pin prior to pushing it out of the ball to ensure that you have equal length on either side of the ball.

 

This is what they would have used at the dealership and also a driveline repair centers.

Below are the factory Miller tools pictures taken from my Miller tool catalog.  I also have the installation jig and the set of two tools to push the pin in and out.

  

 

 

Rich Hartung

Edited August 30, 2023 by desoto1939

[Dodgeb4ya]

I just did that pin press job on my P23 Belvedere.

The pin ends up within .003" side to side centered.

[Sniper]

Don't forget to put the housing and boot on before you put the pin in, BTDT.

[Furylee2]

Here's mine, all ready to go.  Had the 37 on the lift to service it, but found it was converted to modern u-joints.

 

[Kilgore47]

I was helping a friend move some stuff around and noticed these on a shelf.  I thought they were bolt cutters.  Turns out they are crimpers.  As I was looking at them my friend told me I could have them.  I hesitated because I didn't think I would ever use them.  But it turns out that I can't turn down free old tools.  So they are part of my collection now.  They will be handy for replacing battery cable ends or making welding cables.

[Plymouthy Adams]

PLAY DAY---- PLAY DAY...playing with my newest arrived older tool today.....good news....the aimers are the cats meow....bad news the aftermarket adjusting pop in screw nuts from Jolly Ole UK....not made well at all....one already busted....aaaarg!  Good to have had a spare on hand....

 

This is the final adjustment known needed on this project and that is now behind me.  Time to clean and detail it a bit and get rid of fingerprints etc.