ggdad1951 Posted November 11, 2010 Report Share Posted November 11, 2010 ready to put my manifold on. Is there aspecific torque setting for the reverse cone nuts and the standard brass nuts? How about between the manifold halves? Or is it "good and snug"? BTW, VPW recommends stainless bolts to bolt the halves together as they claim they won't seize..... thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted November 11, 2010 Report Share Posted November 11, 2010 I went with the good and snug. No leaks after 40,000 miles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted November 11, 2010 Report Share Posted November 11, 2010 Snug is how we do it. With all the hard to get at fasters it would be hard to get an accurate torque on all 13 of them. Do all of them with an open wrench and you can feel that they are all about the same tightness. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted November 11, 2010 Report Share Posted November 11, 2010 12 to 15 lb ft is what the manual calls for, however getting a torque wrench on some of the fasteners is near impossible. The idea is to get them tight enough to seal but yet still be able to move a bit as they heat up and cool off. Most folks have found that the bolts holding the two together should be left a bit loose untill the manifolds are tight to the block. Then they are tightened, to snug snug to allow for whatever movement that might occur between the two castings. As far as whether those four bolts sieze again, gotta wonder how soon you might be pulling them again. Most have gotten to where they are with out being dissasembled in the past 60+ years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggdad1951 Posted November 11, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2010 great thanks! Now the other question I forgot about...anyone have an assembly pic of the heat riser counterweight? I am a bad man for NOT taking a clear picture and my manuals have the spring set up, but no counterweight, I think I have it figured but want to make sure! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted November 12, 2010 Report Share Posted November 12, 2010 great thanks!Now the other question I forgot about...anyone have an assembly pic of the heat riser counterweight? I am a bad man for NOT taking a clear picture and my manuals have the spring set up, but no counterweight, I think I have it figured but want to make sure! Go to the "heat riser advisor" section inder thecnical tips in the link below. http://www40.addr.com/~merc583/mopar/framesets/welcomeframeset.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggdad1951 Posted November 12, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2010 Go to the "heat riser advisor" section inder thecnical tips in the link below.http://www40.addr.com/~merc583/mopar/framesets/welcomeframeset.html I would, but when I try opening the link it shows the page for a split second and then it goes to a 404 page not found error! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted November 12, 2010 Report Share Posted November 12, 2010 Drive up and look at my spare engine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggdad1951 Posted November 12, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2010 Drive up and look at my spare engine heh, don't tempt me....I could swing by Sat after 3 on the way to the g/f's or I'll be in SLP on Sunday late morning to bid a wood job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted November 12, 2010 Report Share Posted November 12, 2010 My car and truck are stored for winter but you're still welcome to stop in. I'll PM my # Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merle Coggins Posted November 12, 2010 Report Share Posted November 12, 2010 Does this help you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggdad1951 Posted November 12, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2010 (edited) Merle, kinda....I got that part figured, it's the little thingy with the woven "pad" clipped on that I don't know where to locate properly...altho I *think* I figured it. I think it bumps up against the stud on the intake manifold that the "L" hooked spring rests against after the one revolution to tension the spring. Edited November 12, 2010 by ggdad1951 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBNeal Posted November 12, 2010 Report Share Posted November 12, 2010 TECH TIP from P15-D24: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggdad1951 Posted November 13, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2010 (edited) Well, put er together and that little piece of metal (arrow points at it in previous post below) in the counter balance broke at the hole. Sigh. Anyone have one, or should I just laser one out at work? Edited November 13, 2010 by ggdad1951 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggdad1951 Posted November 16, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2010 ok I got it back together, BUT the little "pad" tends to hang up on the intake manifold stud a bit, so with out a little nudge with a screwdriver is just sits there (heating gently with a torch on the spring to get it to move). So do I take a little material off the stud, or?!??!?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave72dt Posted November 16, 2010 Report Share Posted November 16, 2010 Sure, a little off the stud. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggdad1951 Posted November 16, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2010 thanks! all together now and works like a champ! I machined up a little spacer (none when I took it apart) as show in the tech files outa brass at work and everything! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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