break in oil

[ggdad1951]

ok, so I plan on putting some of that slippery stuff in a hunk of metal for the first time this weekend...suggestions on the proper goop?

I want to have a high enought zinc content as well (thinking ~1200ppm?)

royal purple "break in oil"?

Shell Rotella T?

All I've seen at the local places are 15w-40, I was thinking I wanted 10w-40?

Edited October 6, 2010 by ggdad1951

[greg g]

I am running 15-40 diesel oil from Tractor Supply company. It specs similar to rotella, is rated for all engines, and is a bit less expensive than rotella. I do not thinky you want to run sythetic oil for break in purposes. When I did my break in, the machine shop guy recommended straight 30 w for 500 miles than a change of oil and filter. and a refill of multi vis. This was before the zddp removal program. I think the concern is with new cams in flat tappet engines. I guess the chinese steel doesn;t hold up to well with out zinc. Valvoline racing oil still has a high zinc level, perhaps that would be a good one for break in and extended use. It is a straight weight oil. but for our engines run mostly in nice weather is multi vis really necessary?

[Young Ed]

The local flathead guru that built both my flatheads has us use straight 30 non detergent for 500 miles. Then change it to whatever we intend to run. Its been a few years you could call him and see if thats still what he suggests.

[HanksB3B]

Pick a good 30 weight quality non-synthetic oil. I personally like Pennsoil, (but only for break-in). Add ZDDPlus (zinc additive) and you are good to go. Really any good quality non-synthetic oil Valvoline, Castrol it doesn't really matter plus the ZDD additive is a good way to go. Dump this oil and filter after 500 conservative driving miles.

Then switch to synthetic. My first choice is Amsoil (the weight is up to you and the climate/season). I like Amsoil SAE 10W-40 Synthetic Premium Protection Motor Oil here in SO California. Dump this second oil change at 1,500 miles, then follow the manufacturer's recommended oil change intervals of whatever synthetic product you choose.

Hank

http://www.zddplus.com/

http://www.vtwin-hd.com/1863033/

FlatTappetCamshaftWear.pdf

Edited October 6, 2010 by HanksB3B

[Dave72dt]

Any quality non-synthetic with the ZDDp additive should work fine. Royal puple break in is also supposed to be good stuff. Pobably loaded with zinc.

[Plymouthy Adams]

if available to you at a decent cost..supposedly formulated to meet this very purpose...

http://www.royalpurple.com/breakin-oil-rh.html

[ggdad1951]

if available to you at a decent cost..supposedly formulated to meet this very purpose...

http://www.royalpurple.com/breakin-oil-rh.html

yah decided to use this...pick it up at NAPA tomorrow.

[Don Coatney]

When these vehicles were new in the 40's the quality of oil was not what it is today. Break in oil may have been a requirement then. With the much improved engine oils available today I dont believe the use of any special break in oil is required. If you buy a new vehicle today is there a break in oil recommended?

And also along these lines it is my opinion that the oil change intervials that the oil change houses recommend are way too soon. Most recommend every 3000 miles or every 3 months. They do this in hopes that you will return and spend more money before you really have to. I personally run my vehicles (my P-15 included) 6-7 thousand miles before I change the oil.

And I have said this several times. You can buy your dog a diamond studded collar and the dog dont care. The diamond studded collar will not perform any better than a hunk of hemp rope but if it makes you feel better buy it. In my opinion the same is true for oil additives. The additives will not make the oil perform any better but if it makes you feel better buy it.

[Plymouthy Adams]

Don, I assure you these older engines do not have as high pressure metal to metal contact but any and all new metal to metal contact should have some protective coating/lubrication during the break in process...the cam lobes and lifters are about the only pressure items in the assembly..if you have used the break in lube on these surfaces at assembly, I agree..the use of the other is to a degree like snake oil. But as all builds are not "stickly controlled" the catch all oil for this purpose is a slight insurance policy against the unknown/unknowlingly. Even at this, if the proper break in of a new cam and lifters is not done immediately..the chances of galling is greatly increased..once galled it is a steady path to destruction of the part.

As for the 3000 mile oil change..it is good practice...I try to comply but if I go over I don't sweat it,,oil will get dirty, oil will lose it additives...oil is however still oil just dirty oil miles later...lots of folks in the older days never changed oil at this interval, however most did change the filter and top off with a good grade and some even went to extra step of boosting the detergents at this filter changing event. This is kinda like the earlier thread of perfume based products..based on it original concept, if the user took a bath more often this stuff was not needed either...

[greg g]

I believe if your read most automotive user manuals the 3000 mile recommendation which hasn't changed since the 30's or 40's was for severe service conditions. Like dirt roads, no oil filters, heavy load hauling. When was the last time your special interest vehicle was subjected to these conditions. I routinely go 7K or more in my daily use vehicles, with no apparent ill effects perhaps except to my oilchange service providers bottom line. With the way we use our vehicles now this in once a year. It seems our European cousins go 10 to 12K on their intervals, based on some reading Ihave done.

Color is not an indicator of bad oil. Today it is an indication that the detergent in the oil is doing its job. Suspending very small particles of carbon so they do not settle into sludge. But it boils down to the your car your money argument do what makes you happy.