Need help replacing old brake lines

[jasonfroehlich]

Hey Guys, I have another question, Does anyone know the best place to get brake lines for the 1948 to 1953 dodge trucks, can I buy them at napa and just bend them myself or can I buy them already made up, also I am wondering if I buy them at napa does anyone know the length of the lines I will need maybe in a manual? I am working on a 1952 dodge frame to go under my 1949 dodge B-1 1/2 ton truck. The lines are missing and the ones that are there are in bad shape,Thanks again for all your help. Jason

[Jerry Roberts]

All of the auto parts stores sell brake lines . If you are going to look through their selection yourself , be aware that a lot of their lines are metric . I don't know the lengths of the lines that you need , you might end up measuring . Brake lines also come in different diameters .

[jasonfroehlich]

Hey Guys, I have another question, Does anyone know the best place to get brake lines for the 1948 to 1953 dodge trucks, can I buy them at napa and just bend them myself or can I buy them already made up, also I am wondering if I buy them at napa does anyone know the length of the lines I will need maybe in a manual? I am working on a 1952 dodge frame to go under my 1949 dodge B-1 1/2 ton truck. The lines are missing and the ones that are there are in bad shape,Thanks again for all your help. Jason

All of the auto parts stores sell brake lines . If you are going to look through their selection yourself , be aware that a lot of their lines are metric . I don't know the lengths of the lines that you need , you might end up measuring . Brake lines also come in different diameters .

I will keep that in mind I really thank you for that info. Thanks Jason

[Tony_Urwin]

Jason, I am in the process of replacing the brake lines in my truck right now. I had to disconnect the rear lines for a differential swap, and had to replace the front lines to install Charlie's disc brake kit. I had all the original brake lines in my truck, and most of the rusty lines snapped when I disconnected them. I decided it was time to replace all of the brake lines.

The brake lines are 1/4" mild steel tubing which is available in various lengths with the correct fittings at any auto parts store. 3/16" will also work for you. It's also available by the roll. If you want to replicate the original lines, you will have to cut the tubing to length, bend it to shape, and make a double flare at the end. Decent flaring tools start at about $30, tubing benders are in approximately the same price range. With a little practice you can bend your own lines and make flared ends that will not leak.

If you don't want to bend and flare your own lines, there are vendors like Classic Tube or Inline Tube who will provide pre-bent and flared lines. You can send them your old lines and they will replicate them for you. Expensive- several hundred dollars, at least. You could also have a local brake shop do it, of course.

Let us know how it goes!

[oldmopar]

I have done a few vehicles using the napa lines but never measured the lines used, always think about it after job is done. I usually measure and figure what works best besides they do not always have the size you need in stock. On the trucks the only hard bend is the one coming off the mc I think VPW does sell that line prebent but with a little trial and error I got it to fit. Also be aware that in addition to metric the a stand thread that uses a bubble flare which will not work for you.

[Dodgeb4ya]

I buy bulk 25' lengths of brake line tube and cut and flare it so it looks as original. Much better looking job too.

[jasonfroehlich]

Thanks for the help guys I will keep you updated Thanks Jason

[Oldguy48]

If you choose to purchase a flaring tool for your brake lines, don't try to save a few bucks and buy a cheapie tool. I bought a flaring tool from Grizzly a year or so ago, and tried using it for the first time yesterday. After several practice attempts, and some tips gleaned from the internet, that cheap Chinese junk Grizzly flaring tool now resides in my scrap metal bucket. Another example of the old adage "you get what you pay for".

[tom'sB2B]

I was able to find replacements for all the lines at Napa or my other local part stores. I brought the old lines to the store so I could find the closest replacement. The most difficult piece for me is the line coming directly out of the MC, the turns and length was a little tough to duplicate. The rubber hoses can be bought at Napa ( though expensive). Be careful with the brass fittings, some of them can be hard to find

[JBNeal]

a trick to measure bent/formed lines is to use string, tape & a perm.marker: lay the string out on the formed tubing, mark reference points to measure for bends, and have at it. On long runs, I put a reference mark at 12 inches just to keep track of how much tubing is needed.

The pig tail at the master cylinder is a chore to make, and you'd be a magician if you could get it right the first time out. I eventually found that if you give yourself about 6 inches of straight tubing before ya commence to cork-screwin', you'll have a fighting chance at having something respectable. The other trick is to bend the tubing about 1/8 of a turn, rotate the bender about 20°, move the bend centerpoint about an inch, and repeat. It's not perfect, but it's close...I reckon the pigtail was original done on a jig to account for the 3D forming.

And yes, quality tools have no replacement; I've got a tubing bender, flaring tool and cutter that reside in my "box o' shame".

[Merle Coggins]

The pig tail at the master cylinder is a chore to make, and you'd be a magician if you could get it right the first time out. I eventually found that if you give yourself about 6 inches of straight tubing before ya commence to cork-screwin', you'll have a fighting chance at having something respectable. The other trick is to bend the tubing about 1/8 of a turn, rotate the bender about 20°, move the bend centerpoint about an inch, and repeat. It's not perfect, but it's close...I reckon the pigtail was original done on a jig to account for the 3D forming.

When I made the M/C line I found a piece of pipe just the right OD and wrapped the new brake line around it to make the coil. It worked pretty good. Just clamp the pipe into a vice and have at it.

The rest of the lines were made up with lengths of brake line that I got from Napa. Just bend to fit and install. There wasn't much left of the old one at the rear to duplicate. I ended up with a couple of unions to join 2 pieces to get a long enough run to the rear and right front but it all works just fine.

Merle

[jasonfroehlich]

Thanks so much guys I will check out my local napa store and see what I can come up with Thanks Guys very good info. Jason

[suntennis]

Do it yourself is always cheaper. I did a full restoration and sent all my lines to In Line Tube etc and they duplicated all the lines in original finish for under $200.00. For a few dollars more, they could have made them out of stainless. The lines fit great with minor adjustment.

[ggdad1951]

Do it yourself is always cheaper. I did a full restoration and sent all my lines to In Line Tube etc and they duplicated all the lines in original finish for under $200.00. For a few dollars more, they could have made them out of stainless. The lines fit great with minor adjustment.

Did you have to send your old ones in, or did they have the layouts?

[Allen I.]

Just checked the Inline website and they don't have anything older than 1954 in their pull down menu for Dodge trucks.

I was thinking of converting to discs over the winter and sending these guys my lines if they did not have any templates. I have a B2C-116.

Allen

[suntennis]

All my brake lines were sent to Inline Tube and they made new ones. As I recall, it took them about a week to make. When you contact them, they will tell you all you need to know.