1950 Windsor

[theridgely]

Thank you. I never thought about these handles representing the Chrysler building, but they are kind of art deco. They work fine, but I think a good substantial knob would be more comfortable to use.

[Dodgeb4ya]

Here are some of those Chrysler inside window handles. Top round - 1942, middle 1949-1953 shortie, and lower 1946-8 long.

Bob

[PatS....]

Those floppy knobs are very $ought after because back in the day they broke fairly quickly in daily use.

They are quite unique as well. They used to bring a top dollar on eBay.

[Dodgeb4ya]

If they are cheap on ebay now I will buy them all-especially the 1946-8 floppies!

[moose]

This past Sunday, the family and I went to visit our friends where the Chrysler is sitting. Didn't get any pictures-forgot the camera, but remembered all my tools and spare parts I could come up with. Eli and I got the motor running within about an hour and driving after a lot of brake pumping and bleeding. We were very close to trying to drive it home that day, when the back brake cylinders let go:( Got the replacements in the mail today:) Going up again on Saturday.

Ran pretty good and the transmission seemed to work fine, but it didn't like to downshift coming up the hills around his house. Any suggestions on what to look at first? I read a lot about the Prestomatic at the Imperial site, and it's supposed to downshift when in the proper range of speed and throttle wide. Maybe the linkage or switch?

[Phil Martin]

have to floor it to downshift.

[moose]

Would this help? How does it work? Anybody ever used one of these?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260610454021&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT#ht_500wt_956

[Dodgeb4ya]

You need to be sure the kick down switch on the side of the carb works for forced downshifts-needed when going up steep hills. The kick down switch on the carb needs to be checked a couple different ways. There is a plunger on one side and a single wire conection on the other. 1st you need to mash the gas peddle completely to the floor and check that the throttle shaft side lever with the bent tang is fully depressing the brass plunger on the carburator-make sure the throttle linkage causes the brass plunger to be fully depressed with gas pedal action-this switch grounds out and electrically causes a dump of oil pressure in the trans and also shorts out the ignition for a split second to relieve gear torque causing a downshift into a low range-that is if the switch actually works, the contacts get dirty or the switch vacuum spring/assembly is wrong ect.. I always check the carb switches with a OHM meter- one lead to the electrical terminal the other to ground press brass plunger and ohm meter should show continuity. I posted some pics of this carb and switch under "mechanical" in the Photo gallery. That KD kit wiring just hooks up to this switch terminal and makes a downshift much nicer instead of having to floor the gas each time to downshift. With that after market kit you have 2 ways to control forced downshifts!

Bob

Edited November 11, 2010 by Dodgeb4ya

[moose]

Thanks Bob, I checked those pictures of the carb. That should help when I get the car home, not 80 miles away like it is now. When trying to get it to idle, the carb got switched out with one that was in the trunk. The newer one looked pretty clean on the outside-maybe only slightly used...

The original carb came home so I'll look it over and familiarize myself before this weekend. I think I really need to get in the mindset of driving this m6, then it will be easier. Not really worrying about that for the ride home though, just points, plugs, oil and filter, and back brakes. Oh yeah, and make sure my AAA membership is up to date:D

BTW what's the filter number for this car? I searched on here and found NAPA 1071? I got that one yesterday and it doesn't match the pictures Don C put up...

[greg g]

Moose, check all the conections at the carb, plunger, and trans. Make sure they are clean and tight. Remember dealing with 6V any resistance will foul thing up. Also take a look at the Imperial club website. they have a very complete M6 trouble shooting guide in the repair section.

Those things are pretty simple and reliable as a rock. most operating problems are external, assuming the fluid levels are correct. the trans and fulid drive are filles sepreatly and with different fluids. So check those according to the info on the Imp site.

[moose]

I believe you got the one for the bypass filter canister. Don posted pics of the larger full flow filter.

Bypass is 4.21" high. Full flow is 6.526" ( NAPA # 1062)

Thanks, I called NAPA this morning and gave them a fram# CH192PL. He ordered me a 1062:)

Yeah Greg that imperial site is great for this transmission. I'm thinking that when we changed the carb, that wire wasn't even hooked up:eek: I think that might do it. We'll have to see...

[Don Coatney]

1062 is correct.