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Guest tagree01

Hey guys, I’m new to the forum and just want to introduce myself. My name is Tom, I am 35 years old and live in Dallas TX. I got into hotrods and classic cars about 3 years ago and have been hooked ever since. Growing up I always wanted to work on old cars, but never had the opportunity. As a result, I am still new at this stuff. I wanna get good at the mechanics, but I am taking special interest in upholstery. I got a monster industrial sewing machine for that purpose. At my age I’d rather make investments in cars than the stock market. I call them “investments” just to make myself sound more responsible.

My most recent investment, and the one most relevant to this forum, is a 1940 Dodge business coupe (I’m gonna try to do links to pics if I can http://s172.photobucket.com/albums/w27/tagree0/1940%20Dodge/ ). Someone made a weak attempt to hotrod the car (big tarz and filled seams), but I think most is bone stock. However, the front end has independent suspension—was that stock on a ’40 Dodge? The car has been converted to 12V except for the generator, so I am trickle-charging until I can get a 1-wire alternator. The engine looks stock to me, but I could be wrong. I just got the car, so I’m still learning about it. The engine runs great at idle, but bogs a little when I step on the gas. It scared the poo outta me when I got it up to 40 mph, when the car started filling with white smoke. I shut it off immediately, so I never figured out if it was coming from the engine or the exhaust, which exits under the middle of the car. Not gonna try it again until I get a fire extinguisher. I let the car cool, fired it back up and it made it home (2 blocks) without further incident. Whew. Brakes need some work, but do function. I’d like to keep the flathead if it is in decent shape. Maybe hop it up some. If I can’t preserve the 6 I’ll go with something newer, maybe a V8 flathead. I’d like to take the 6 apart and see what kind of shape it is in, but I’d really like to have this car in driving condition most of the time. I already have a project. As you can tell, I’ll try to hit you guys up for answers from time to time.

I love old cars whether they are original or hotrods. I would never take an original car in restorable shape and turn it into a hotrod, but I think many cars are too far gone to restore and hotrodding is one way to preserve what’s left of the car. I know there are probably a lot of folks here that would take issue with my opinions, and everyone has a different opinion of what is “too far gone”, but the one thing I hate to see more than anything is a car rotting to dust in a field.

My second investment was a 1941 Chrysler Windsor 4-door sedan hotrod project ( http://s172.photobucket.com/albums/w27/tagree0/1941%20Chrysler%20Windsor/ ). It has a Nova front clip with an SBC. This one is definitely not a driver. I cleaned it up and will redo the upholstery and wiring myself. I’ll probably have a shop do the sheet metal work. It needs work on the rockers and tail, but not too much else.

My first investment was a ’27 T-bucket ( http://s172.photobucket.com/albums/w27/tagree0/T-bucket/ ). This is a true hotrod in the old sense of the word (a pile of old crap held together with bailing wire and bubble gum, strapped to a strong engine). I love it! It was built in the late ‘70s. It has a 327 SBC (1967) with double-hump heads. I'm redoing the upholstery now. I got it because my nephew and I were playing with his Hotwheels and we both decided that we were gonna buy hotrods when we grew up. Being a grownup, I had no excuse. He promised I would be the coolest uncle ever if I had a hotrod. So I got one. Ten minutes of riding in uncle Tom’s hotride and he was done with it—ready to go home. That’s ok, I really got it for me.

Anyway, I’ll stop wasting bandwidth now. I apologize to anyone who read all the way down to here.

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Guest tagree01
The coupe has the gasser look but it sure would look good with the body and trim left as-is, and a nice drop all around, to maybe 2" below stock.

Thanks everybody! I agree with a drop. Just need to figure out how.

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Thanks everybody! I agree with a drop. Just need to figure out how.

There are really only 2 ways; cut the springs, or install a set of Fatman dropped spindles.

The only issue with the Fatman spindles is that they pretty much require a conversion to disk brakes, which most of us think is an upgrade anyway. I made them work with the stock drums, but wish I hadn't, as they were a royal pain.

Marty

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Tom says it's independent front suspension. Sounds like maybe it's subframed? If that's the case there are probably some other kits out there.

I cut my stock springs a bit. Pretty easy job but dirty and greasy.

There are really only 2 ways; cut the springs, or install a set of Fatman dropped spindles.

The only issue with the Fatman spindles is that they pretty much require a conversion to disk brakes, which most of us think is an upgrade anyway. I made them work with the stock drums, but wish I hadn't, as they were a royal pain.

Marty

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DOES YOUR A ARMS LOOK LIKE THESE?

if you take out both springs and stand them side by side to where they look like twins then mark them in the same spot and slice i usually cut at the second coil for a normal drop for my friends but my cars get slammed i have installed airbags in the front of my black 47 i havn't done the rear as i have to put a four point bar to lower the back my green 47 is going to complete stock resto with a slight drop

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I have some old hot rod and custom mags from the early 50's. It was common practice to weld a 3/8" thick strap to both sides of the lower a frame at a 90 degree angle with a new trunion hole two inches higher than the original and a two inch spacer under the upper arm mounting bolts. In effect raising the spindle two inches without changing anything else. Someone at one time made a kit with the right angle straps as part of a bracket that bolted to the lower a arm and a spacer of what appeared to be 2"X2" square tubing with caps welded to both ends and bolt holes to match the upper attach point. Pages 108 and 109 of custom cars by the editors of Hot Rod, Car Craft and Motor Trend 1955 Custom Cars 1955 Annual, also How to build Hot Rods 1952 published by Fawcett Publications inc. Greenwich, Connecticut book number 156 has a drawing showing how this looks from the front on page 75

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Tom says it's independent front suspension. Sounds like maybe it's subframed? If that's the case there are probably some other kits out there.

I cut my stock springs a bit. Pretty easy job but dirty and greasy.

My recollection is that in 39 they went to independent spring front suspension, and away from the round solid axel as used in 38's. Way cool car, I have a 38 Dodge Fastback its great to see another car out there and getting used. I have the 230 flattie in mine but will soon convert to Fenton headers and twin carb inlet which will make it a lot better. You may find as I have that your rear end is too low geared (4.1) I have popped in an XA Ford Falcon diff at 3.23......ahhhh much better.:D

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Guest tagree01
DOES YOUR A ARMS LOOK LIKE THESE?

if you take out both springs and stand them side by side to where they look like twins then mark them in the same spot and slice i usually cut at the second coil for a normal drop for my friends but my cars get slammed i have installed airbags in the front of my black 47 i havn't done the rear as i have to put a four point bar to lower the back my green 47 is going to complete stock resto with a slight drop

That is exactly what they look like. How difficult is it to do airbags on the front? I like the idea of airbags. The rear has some sort of air suspension, but I haven't investigated that yet. I'd like to do bags all around but the fat rear tires stick out past the fenders, so it is not practical to drop the rear much as is, unless I change the wheels. Originally the fat rear tires looked ugly to me, and I planned on changing them, but now they are kinda growing on me. Unfortunately a prior owner cut the leading edge of the fender to accommodate the tires, and did a crappy job of it. Anyway, the rear rubber is not great, so it may be a good time to change the wheels too. Need to save up some cash first.

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Guest tagree01
I have the 230 flattie in mine but will soon convert to Fenton headers and twin carb inlet which will make it a lot better. You may find as I have that your rear end is too low geared (4.1) I have popped in an XA Ford Falcon diff at 3.23......ahhhh much better.:D

How do I know what my engine is? Also, where are you getting the parts? Just did a search and couldn't find headers or inlets. Lastly, did you have to change the whole rear end, or can you just change the actual gears? Thx, Tom

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THe engine number stamped on my block starts with "P23" I have ASSUMED that the 23 indicates 230ci (which I know from when the engine was reconditioned. Put up your engine number on the forum, someone should be able to tell you a bit about it. When serching look for Fenton and also search Langdon, they should pop up. Also search this forum there is lots about these "era speed parts" on this forum. Also check out Blueskies 41 Plymouth website...very interesting and he has all the links.

The diff...I changed the entire unit, had to reposition the spring pads and and adapt the rear universal, shoot me your e-mail and I can send pics of what it looks like. The trick will be to find what Ford used the Falcon (Australia/New Zealand) diff's in up there.

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P23 does not mean that. P23 is the engine code for a 51-52 plymouth car engine and unless some internal stuff has been swapped would be a 218.

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That is exactly what they look like. How difficult is it to do airbags on the front? I like the idea of airbags. The rear has some sort of air suspension, but I haven't investigated that yet. I'd like to do bags all around but the fat rear tires stick out past the fenders, so it is not practical to drop the rear much as is, unless I change the wheels. Originally the fat rear tires looked ugly to me, and I planned on changing them, but now they are kinda growing on me. Unfortunately a prior owner cut the leading edge of the fender to accommodate the tires, and did a crappy job of it. Anyway, the rear rubber is not great, so it may be a good time to change the wheels too. Need to save up some cash first.

http://www.ridetech.com/

to give ya an idea for me its really easy the front cups you will use are for like a 85 to 95 chevy caprice

the cups take up the space where the spring is the bag goes on the bottom of the cup and is what touches the lower a arm when you hit the switch the air in the tank rushes to fill the bag raising the car hit the switch the other way and the dump valve releases the air the bigger the hose the faster you move i have 1/2" lines but for just ride adjustments you could go 3/8"

they have som ereally cool gadgets for air ride but they are not needed one could just install the bags and run the hoses to a certain spot and put an air nozzle tip so you can fill them at any gas station air pump thats what i have on my 47 right now i ran the hoses to the rear and the nozzle like the valve stem on the tire is poking out behind the rear fender it has a thread on it so i feed it thru a hole in the chassis and locked it down when i fill it the car stands up at attention im installing a fast bag kit in my suzuki side kick this weekend getting it ready for summer fun

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post-690-13585345221308_thumb.jpg

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