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Posted (edited)

It's nearing time for me to register the car and despite the patina finish and all good intentions of a full body respray my ADHD fueled need for instant gratification has gotten the better of me.

So..

I was going to register it on historic club plates which do not require indicators as they weren't manufactured with them, however I think I may put it on full rego so I can cruise around here and there while I get it restored without having to call up for a movement number each time. This will may require fitting indicators.

So........

I am converting the parkers over in the front , yet I cant decide what type of indicator I should fit, nor where to mount it in the rear. (no pun intended)

Something like this mounted under the L/R taillights.

Or some of these on the apron between the deck and the rear bumper. (obviously mounted high enough to see over the bumper)

Anyway the point of this post is to see what other people have done on their cars. (post a a pic) I see a lot of classics butchered with poorly thought out box trailer indicators and it looks terrible.

Edited by Aussie D25
Posted

I've attached a pic of the rear(same on front on both cars) blinkers/indicators on both my 40 Dodge and 41 Plymouth.........both are motorbike blinkers, the ones on the Dodge are from who knows as I just went to the local bike shop and checked out 4 of the same, the Plymouth came with its blinkers which according to the previous owner are ex Harley, they are a much better made blinker with a stronger orange lens, but either way.........yep they stick out, don't look original and whatever BUT and its a BIG BUT.........they can be seen from a good distance..........you only want to hear some idiot screaching to a halt behind you once when you didn't have good blinkers and were concerned at the time about the "cool" factor..........."cool" can go suck..........mine and my cars arse are worth more than "cool" ............find the brightest, nicest, shinest indicators you can( and o/k "cool" should be taken into account.....lol)............andyd

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Posted

converting the parking lights in the front works great and keeps a nice, clean appearence.

here's what we did to the 40's lamp housing to accept a double filament bulb:

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we welded in a tube the diameter of the bulb's base and bored a hole for a clamp screw:

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you have to cut out the reflector, though, due to the greater size of the new bulb.

the back is easy to do, as the original socket accepts the double bulb

when you file a little on the slots for securing the bulb. one needs to be extended a little,

because the little knobs on the modern bulbs are vertically offset to prevent wrong asssembly.

works just fine on my car, i use an old truck signal switch.

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Posted

They sell halogen headlight bulbs here with an LED turn signal in the lower corner of the light, but they cost $159.00 a pair. I have a friend with a 41 Ford convert. Street Rod and he installed a set because he did not like the add on motorcycle units his had. Had to install a new flasher for LED bulbs because the load was too low to make the stock flasher work. This is an easy way out but expensive if you ask me.

Posted

that's right...

you'd have to check with authorities, though, LEDs aren't always streetlegal

(at least here they're not).

just if you care, that is....:rolleyes:

Posted

I converted my tail lights to dual filaments. Just added new guts to the existing housing. The bulbs have straight pins so when you replace them you have to guess and check them but how often are any of us likely to replace these? I also have 3 brake lights now just like a modern car. I put a turn/stop bulb in the center light with the contacts soldered together so I have a pretty bright third brake light.

Posted

I definitely prefer panel mounted, rather than the peaked stand-up lights.

I cheated a bit with my car...

I used a pair of white lights and fitted them with orange bulbs.

That way, they look more like original reversing light accessories, rather than add-ons.

They are actually fitted a bit too close to the rear lights for my liking, but I used the holes that were already there, from some horrible cheap, trailer lights.

One day, I'll move them down and repaint the panels.

These are the lights I used. I like the finned lenses.

They are British parts, used as front side lights on several cars - I think Austin 1100, etc.

http://www.vintagemotorspares.com/phdi/p1.nsf/supppages/hodge?opendocument∂=6 (number 496 is the one)

Hope you like this set up.

Robin.

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Posted

that's a great setup, robin!

you're right about them beeing too close to the backlights,

but you can change that in time and it's still a unique and creative solution.

the most important thing is that you're seen by others.

my setup is kind of a suicide solution,

since lights, brake lights AND turn signal reside in the same housing and all run on 6V.

oldschool, right, clean and nice,but i hate that screeching sound in my back...

i thought about a third brake light that i could just fold behind the rear bumper on shows.

Posted
... I was going to register it on historic club plates which do not require indicators as they weren't manufactured with them, however I think I may put it on full rego so I can cruise around here and there while I get it restored without having to call up for a movement number each time. This will may require fitting indicators. ...

Wow. At least in California for a passenger car almost all lighting and safety equipment has a "first manufactured on or after" clause. So basically you can have regular registration on any car if you wish. Only exceptions I could find in the motor vechicle code were:

1. Two rear view mirrors with one being the driver side outside mirror.

2. At least one rear reflector.

3. If car is fitted with windshield, must have at least one "automatic" wiper (can't have the old hand crank type).

In practice, the DMV does not inspect and I've never heard of the police enforcing the above. Many, perhaps most, old car owners have upgraded to more or better lights not because the law requires but because they just feel safer.

How about a set of those nifty magnetic lights that tow trucks use and stick them to the gravel pan/splash shield between the body and the bumper???

http://www.princessauto.com/truck-trailer/electrical/trailer-lighting/8002382-12v-towing-light-kit

They are even available wireless :)

I was unaware of the wireless versions. That is cool and maybe something for me to think about. I wonder if the transmitter could be made to work on 6v positive ground.

...

you have to cut out the reflector, though, due to the greater size of the new bulb.

the back is easy to do, as the original socket accepts the double bulb

when you file a little on the slots for securing the bulb. one needs to be extended a little,

because the little knobs on the modern bulbs are vertically offset to prevent wrong assembly. ...

For 6v, the bulbs are available with either staggered pins (the 1154 with double contact "index" base) or pins pins straight across (the 1158 with a double contact "bayonet" base). The staggered version for 12v is 1157 but I don't see a 12v version of the bayonet base in a recent Phillips miniture light listing.

So maybe if you go to 12v you need to modify the slots but if you stick with 6v you can just swap bulbs and use a new contact piece in the bottom of the original base.

Posted (edited)

Mine came from a purveyor of used motorcycle parts. The pair for 10 bucks + the cost of new 6 V bulbs, certainly not the most esthetic but they are effective. Fronts were converted to Dual filimant in the parking lamps. I have also wired my tails to work as stop lamps, with dual bulb halogen bulb aftermarket sockets.

Your comment about a movement number was interesting. If you are on historic plates you need to get like a day permit to allow you to use your car??? Our historic registrations are for club events, tours, displays, and occasional transportation supposidly limited to about 2500 miles a year but never hear of any restrictions being imposed or violations being written up.

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Edited by greg g
Posted

todfitch,

that's interesting, i didn't know there were double filament bulbs with bayonet sockets. i wrote down the number and will check if i can get them here.

makes it more comfortable to change bulbs.

Posted (edited)

I'm leaning more toward flush mounting a new set as I did initially want to have the taillights as the indicators yet I am sure I have read something about indicators in AUS have to be either amber lens with clear bulb or clear lens with amber bulb ... no clear indicators are allowed anymore nor converted break lights. (correct me if I'm wrong)

Any way the way things are going with the roads and traffic authorities here they will have all pre 90's cars weeded off the road in 10 years time due to unachievable engineering rules. :mad: (google vsi-50)

...back to flush mounting, I have a set of reflectors that sit about a half foot down from the tail lights requiring an 1/8" hole I can drill this out larger and fit an indicator in there as the taillights themselves have reflectors on them covering off that aspect of AUS rules and requirements for full rego.

I don't know if these reflectors were put on afterward or whether it was an AUS design rule for the D25's. I wouldn't have thought it would be something dating back as far as '48 though :confused:

I know you must have some form of rear reflectors to register a car on full rego these days.

After the indicators I'll have to consider seat belts ... I hope I can get away with lap sashes.

Edited by Aussie D25
Posted (edited)
If you are on historic plates you need to get like a day permit to allow you to use your car???

We sort of have the same thing with a restriction on how far you can drive, if traveling to a destination it must be the most direct route ect.

If you are an affiliate of a club depending on the distance for your outing you must request a movement number with the club plates registrar whom will log your journey in a day book (for insurance purposes I believe).

This a is a typical Club Histoic plates Constitution for NSW Aus... this is not my club but they are all cast from the same mold.

There are all sorts of rego's for different applications, individualy built and engineered, hot rod, street rod ... there are even sepperate rulings for the AC Cobra and Elfin/clubman 7 vehicles

Edited by Aussie D25

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