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Shameless plea for driveline parts & info


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I am replacing the differential in my B1C (with a 3.73 from a DeSoto) and I want to use the opportunity to replace the yokes and driveshaft. My truck is an early series B1C with the universals that have plates bolted onto the yokes to hold the bearing caps in place. Way expensive and hard-to-find.

I'd like to replace the tranny and pinion yokes with later style yokes (either the ones with clips or clamps).

I THINK (dangerous, I know) that most yokes from this period will swap. Can anyone tell me if the later style yokes will swap into my B1C?

And just as important, do any of you guys with modified trucks have your old drivetrains availalbe for purchase? I need both yokes (ranny and pinion) and the driveshaft from a 116" wheelbase truck. Thanks!

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Hey Tony!

You just happen to be singin' my song! I was just there two or three weeks ago. The news is good. The joints are available. I had to go to our local Brown Bearing Co. store and order one, but I had the old sample along for trhem to measure up, and what came back was perfect. Down side is it is the C clip style, which I do not prefer, and it has no grease zerk, which I do prefer. Anyhoo, here's the scoop:

'

Car Quest 1-5900 or Chicago Rawhide 1-1612BF

The firsr numbeer I pur in the rear and the second I put on the tranny., And, by the bye, if you need a speedy sleeve for your trans yoke, that number is CR99159. They're all thirty some bucks each.

Resealed my '48 Chrysler windsor 3:54 rear - oinion and all four wheel seals, and spent a hunnert bukzz. Resealed and sleeved my new 3 speed tranny with a gasket kit and spent another hunnert - all on just soft parts. Sure am glad I didn't need anything serious . . .

Are you exchanging the complete rear assembly or just the center section? I notice the spring perches are osmewhat different between car and truck - shock mounts, etc. The donor rear I got was a leaker, so I had to pull it all apart just to get it to dry up. I'm anxious to get it on the road with the new taller gears.

Post back and let us know how it is coming.

Regards,

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Thanks for the part numbers. I am hoping to just swap the 3.73 chunk into the truck axle. The Desoto pinion flange is different than the Pilothouse yoke (see photo). Did you have to swap pinion yokes or were you lucky enough to match up to your driveshaft?

I got the 3.73 DeSoto differential in the photo, a nice clean axle housing, and a pair of ten-spline axles from George Asche a few years ago. I'm not sure that they came from the same vehicle since George pulled them from different places. The axle housing has the same dimensions as a Pilothouse, just the vent is drilled on the opposite side of the tube. I could reverse the perches, or just weld the vent hole closed and drill another one on the other side of the tube. Hopefully the pumpkin will interchange with the existing Pilothouse axle housing.

Can anyone share any advice about swapping pinion yokes?

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Tony,

The nose on your pumkin is considerably longer than what I have. Both my Pilothouse and the Windsor rears appear to be identical. I'm not sure exactly what you have there. Maybe someone else on the forum will recognize it,

Good Luck. My rear swap is happening this coming week, along with a rebuilt transmission - should make for a much nicer drive.

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Grey Beard, I think it's one of those optical delusions. You know, the kind you get when you cross a digital camera with a beer buzz. Actually, the case has the same bolt pattern and dimensions as the carrier in my Pilothouse. The casting numbers for the Pilothouse/DeSoto carriers are 1115941-24 and 663473-1. I don't know how to identify differentials (or transmissions for that matter) by the casting #, do you? Sure would make it easier to swap 'em.

Dave, you're 100% right. I think Power Wagon and Pilothouse trucks both have the spring pads and the vent on the same side of the tubes. Car axles have their spring pads on the bottom, since they mount above the springs. I was dreaming when I suggested that the vent hole could be welded shut and drilled for the other side. That would put the differential upside down!

Don, I'm working two jobs until my kids get through school. In my present financial situation I'm fortunate to keep the Pilothouse on the road. The Plymouth and DeSoto projects stay in storage for a few more years. I started to wonder when I didn't see any posts by Norm. I never met him, but I felt like I knew him by his posts. RIP

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Howdy Tony. It was good to meet you in person in Dayton a few weeks ago. I hope you enjoyed the show.

My truck has a 3.73 diff from a '50 Plymouth that I got from Normspeed. It was a direct swap into my axle. The input yolk was different between my truck diff and his car diff, but we realized that ahead of time and removed them before shipping the diff assembly. My truck yolk slipped right onto the car pinion shaft (with a new seal of course) and it all bolted right up.

I've think I still have the drive shaft from my B2C parts truck which has the newer style u-joints that are easier to find. I believe I send the diff yolk to someone else not long ago but I may be able to come up with another one if you need it. The trans end has a yolk that bolts up to the output flange. It you still have the 3 speed I sent you a while back the shaft would match up to that.

Merle

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Thanks, Merle. I'm glad to hear that some truck and car transmission parts can interchange. I used a different transmission that has the old-style yoke instead of a flange unfortunately. I have two of the unwanted yokes but no output flange.

I would certainly like to buy that driveshaft if I can find the yokes (or output flange) to match it!

It was great talking to you and learning from your experience. Our trucks are going to be so similar, we'll have to show them together next year.

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Tony,

If you are in a bind, I have an extrea Pilothouse driveshaft and front yoke. Be aware that thest things are proje to wear at the splines where the two - front yoke and drive shaft male spline - meet. The one I am removing from my truck has a lot of slop, but these are repairable easily at any driveline shop. Let me know if you need these parts.

The axle housing I have from a '48 Windson has the spring perches on the bottom of the housing and sits on top of the springs just like my Pilothouse rear housng. The only difference I found was that the lower shock bracket on the car housing was a part of he spring saddle while the pilothouse has the lower shock mount on a plate that the U bolts hold onto the bottom of the spring pack.

Good Luck

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1/2 tons have the axle under the springs. The shock plate goes right under the axle using the U bolts to hold it to the axle housing.

If you wanted to modify the axle to lower the truck, the springs would go under the axle (perches need to be relocated) with rounded U- bolts, instead of the squared off type.

48D

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I just installed a 3:54 punkin in my Pilothouse. I have a complete rear that is 4:56 ratio, in working order - needs to be reassembled, complete with axles and brakes/drums. If anyone can use this, it's yours for the taking. Please don''t ask me to ship this puppy - it's HDAVY!

Good Luck

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Dave (greybeard), you have me a little confused. You seemed to indicate that your Pilothouse axle bolted above your springs? Or are you saying that you swapped in a car axle that mounts above the springs?

Did you use the Piolothouse springs with the car axle? It seems like the axle might hit the frame on a bumpy spot in the road.

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Tony,

There's a bit of bad information right here on this thread. Half ton Pilothouse trucks were made with the axles sitting ON TOP of the springs, and the lower shock bracket on the bottom, all held together with U-bolts.

I got a comoplete rear from a '48 Windsor. Pulled it apart to check everythinmg, since the pinion seal and punkin gasket were both leaking anyhow. Today I swapped the center section into my housing. Boh rear axles had the axle housing sitting on top of the springs, and I could have easily used either housing, as the spring perches were similar. The only difference I was able to find was the fact that the car rear had the lower shock brackets integral with the spring saddle, which we torched off when the donor rear was liberated. The housings will interchange, as will all the internal parts and brake parts. I had to use the axle shafts from the Windsor, since the splines were different, but they interchnged just fine.

The car brakes are different than the Pilothouse in that the truck uses two wheel cylinders while the car uses only one - just like the Pilothouse fronts. I could have used either, but my brake were all new, so I just kept them. The backing plates and drums interchange, as well. Hope this all helps you out. Some car rear housings may be different, but thjs is how mine was found.

Tomorrow I am looking forward to seeing how it runs out on the highway. I"ll let you know.

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Sorry, but I should have added that my old 4:56 rear is in working order. It is available free to anyone on this forum who wants it. I have all the parts - housing, brakes, drums, etc., but it needs to be reassembled - weighs less that way when you pick it up. Ajyone wants to come by and pick it up, it's yours. Please don't ask me to ship it, the sucker's sorta' heavy . . .

Call me if you want it - 717-354-0276

Good Luck

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Gentlemen,

I owe you all an apology. Truck axles do indeed sit beneath the spring leaves. The lower shock mount sits beneath the axle and is retained by the U-bolts. Most car axles sit on top of the spring leaves and have the lower shock mounts integral with the spring perch on the housing. It is for this reason that car rear assemblies will not bolt intro truck applicxarions, although the ceneter section and axles/brakes will all interchange.

Guess I've been looking at axle housings too much lately.

The rear axle assembly I am offering free to forum members here is out of an automobile. The center section is a 4:57 rear. Brakes and drums are included. Come and get it if you need one.

Good Luck

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Yep the springs are on top. You can see this on a video I did for the shackle removal, and a few pictures of a stock 1948 frame I took. I threw in the font axle to show its underneth the springs too. Note the squared off U-bolts to hold the springs.

http://www.youtube.com/user/194853DodgeTrucks#p/u/7/LlbxUaTYEWE

48D

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I bought a pair of rear fenders on an eBay auction not long ago. When I went to pick them up, the seller showed me his Pilothouse project. He had moved the rear axle above the springs using longer u-bolts. He was a welder and had fabricated plates to box the rear frame rails and add a C-notch above the rear axle. That part actually looked like it would work.

The front axle was also mounted above the springs. He had the tie rods running between the frame and the springs. It almost looked like it would work, except that he didn't have an engine in place. He's gonna have one of those "smack yourself in the forehead" moments when he drops in the 318 he had sitting in the corner!

It had the look, though!

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Mine is getting lowered all around but I'm not using any of the original suspension. Front is a MII setup with coilovers and rack and pinion. I'll need to C notch the front frame to clear the R & P. The 318/727 fits nicely between the rails, offset about 2 inches to the right and recessed into the firewall. The back I have set at ride height and has only 2 1/8 inches clearance between top of axle and bottom of frame so it will get a C notch also. Planning on using a triangulated four link and coil overs on rear. With the offset engine placement, the crossmember under the cab needed to be removed and a tubular crossmember with a removable trans mount built to take it's place.

Front valance clears the ground by about 6 inches and the rear has been dropped 3inches so it's pretty low.

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Trucks are quite tall in their natural state and my next one I want to lower a bit. Not to the extreme of ground scrapping or notching the frame though.

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