dontknowitall Posted July 7, 2010 Report Share Posted July 7, 2010 Hoi, I have removed the old one, and cleaned the block. Getting ready for assembly is the water distributer pipe essential or can I leave it out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted July 7, 2010 Report Share Posted July 7, 2010 Yes it is necessary! Do not leave it out! Your block looks terrific! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave72dt Posted July 7, 2010 Report Share Posted July 7, 2010 Looks like the block has been bored and the valve seats refaced. Makes me want to put another engine together, as nice as yours looks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dontknowitall Posted July 7, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2010 There was a lot of rust.. But now, its almost there.. new valves, new bearings,new cam stuff, new pistons,rings,timing chain...she'l be purring! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted July 7, 2010 Report Share Posted July 7, 2010 Did you notice that the slots in the water disribution tube point toward the valve seats. The only time the valves get cooled is when they are in contact withthe seats. (well i suppose the intake valve might get cooled by the incoming air/fuel charge) Its more for the life of the valves than the cooling of the entire engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dontknowitall Posted July 7, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2010 Thanks for the info, I will put it back in! Whats with the head gasked? It has a hole on the side ( were the water pump is) that seem to fit on the block, but when the head is on it , it pertrudes?? Did you notice that the slots in the water disribution tube point toward the valve seats.The only time the valves get cooled is when they are in contact withthe seats. (well i suppose the intake valve might get cooled by the incoming air/fuel charge) Its more for the life of the valves than the cooling of the entire engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MBF Posted July 7, 2010 Report Share Posted July 7, 2010 (edited) Nice job! That protrusion may be for an internally bypassed cooling setup-I can't remember for sure, and I had mine apart last winter. If I recall correctly, my head gasket also had a protrusion that stuck out past the front of the head about quarter inch or so-I'll have to check. One thing for sure-these old flatties are a lot easier to put a head back on single handedly than the slant 6 I rebuilt in my pickup! Mike Edited July 7, 2010 by MBFowler Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Gaspard Posted July 7, 2010 Report Share Posted July 7, 2010 This thread with Reg's photo shows the difference between the internal bypass and external bypass gaskets. Generally speaking B1's and B2's were external bypass and B3's incorporated the internal bypass design. I have a an early production B3 (1951) and a late production B3 (1952) and they are both internal bypass. http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=6119&highlight=internal+bypass Since your engine is apparently external bypass, you can probably trim off the protrusion part of the gasket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave72dt Posted July 7, 2010 Report Share Posted July 7, 2010 Yes, that's what it's for. There was a thread on this just a short while ago. You can trim the excess off if you want. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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