Herr Otto Posted July 2, 2010 Report Share Posted July 2, 2010 Does the fender welting bead lay on top of the fender or is it flush with the top of the fender? Thanks, Otto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted July 2, 2010 Report Share Posted July 2, 2010 (edited) the "bead" section of the welt is proud of the seam that is exerting the clamping force so yes it will be above the joint..to consider positioning it within will cause for body panel distortion as you try to tightening the bolt that affix the panel to the body..in placing this welt along the contour of the panel you can use duct tape folded over the weld webbing to give you a bit of a grab handle if you will so to allow you to position this bead tightly against the seam as you snug up the bolts... Edited July 2, 2010 by Tim Adams Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grey beard Posted July 4, 2010 Report Share Posted July 4, 2010 Pilothouse trucks use no fender beading anywhere. The front (grille) panel seam to the front of the front fenders should have sealant or black tape sealer inside the seam to keep the splash from coming through onto the paint. Rear fenders have no bead at all, although some folks add it when they do restorations. The top rear edges of the front fendrs - where they meet the cab - have a thick rubber filler piece. Otherwise, no beading on Pilothouses. Check out Mr. Bunn's hook and factory photos. JMHO 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NiftyFifty Posted July 4, 2010 Report Share Posted July 4, 2010 I've heard of guys using window sealant for the front fender/grill joint, anyone try this with success? Mine did have welting there, but it had been re-painted at some point. I would like to find a Canadian source for those strips that go at the back of the hood, look like their made of burlap (sp) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoelOkie Posted July 4, 2010 Report Share Posted July 4, 2010 (edited) I've heard of guys using window sealant for the front fender/grill joint, anyone try this with success? Mine did have welting there, but it had been re-painted at some point. I would like to find a Canadian source for those strips that go at the back of the hood, look like their made of burlap (sp) Cowl lacing is fairly easy to find. I bought some off e-bay a while back for a couple of bucks. Not Canadian, but Roberts Motor Parts has the fabric type, (of which I have also bought from him), and a rubber type also, fabric 2 bucks a foot, and the rubber for 12 dollars each, so I am assuming a kit type you trim to length. http://www.robertsmotorparts.com/truck_parts.asp Hood area and Related Parts Joel Edited July 4, 2010 by JoelOkie add link Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Shepard Posted July 7, 2010 Report Share Posted July 7, 2010 While it is true the Pilothouse trucks have no beading/welting, they do use various materials between metal to metal locations. The "nose" section and front fenders have a rubber seal on each side. If you check the parts book on the club website, you'll see this seal on page 12-1 (Fenders and Sheet Metal), Part 12-02-11. This is no longer available; however it is easily made using the appropriate thickness of sheet rubber. In doing my restoration, I simply laid the fender nose down on the sheet and traced the outline. The "beadding" between the rear fenders and the bed can be duplicated using 3M Strip-Calk or similar material. Any materail that squeezes up can be cut off with a razor. At the ends of the running boards where they mount to the fenders there are "anti-squeak" seals (Part 12-02-15). They are no longer available but can be made from the same sheet rubber as with the nose piece. There is also a rubberized welting material mounted to the fender extensions (Part 12-04-36). I was able to locate a similar product and it is simply pop-rivated to the extension panel. The "filler" material grey beard mentioned is available from Roberts and others. If you check my album on the club site, I think I have photos of most of this posted. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
desoto1939 Posted July 8, 2010 Report Share Posted July 8, 2010 The original fender welting that was used on the cars was made up of a cloth like material. The welting acted as filler strip between the fenders and the main body of the car. You will usually find some rust out in these area especially on the rear fenders. This happens because the old style being cloth was not paited and the cloth would retain the water from raining and washing the car. When I did my 39 Desoto I use the new vynal style. The vynal is nicer since it does not soak up the ater and also since it is vynal it acts as an antisqueek between the fenders and body. Also when you polish or wacx the car the polish is not soaked into the welting which then turn white. Most of the welting is black so the wax that is left on the welting really standsout. If you are going for a points car then the vynal is not correct if you have a driver then go for the vynal. When you form this to go around the fender you will need to cut out section on the flap so it will bend to the contur of the fender. The bead should sit on top of the fender. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NiftyFifty Posted July 8, 2010 Report Share Posted July 8, 2010 The original fender welting that was used on the cars was made up of a cloth like material. The welting acted as filler strip between the fenders and the main body of the car. You will usually find some rust out in these area especially on the rear fenders. This happens because the old style being cloth was not paited and the cloth would retain the water from raining and washing the car.When I did my 39 Desoto I use the new vynal style. The vynal is nicer since it does not soak up the ater and also since it is vynal it acts as an antisqueek between the fenders and body. Also when you polish or wacx the car the polish is not soaked into the welting which then turn white. Most of the welting is black so the wax that is left on the welting really standsout. If you are going for a points car then the vynal is not correct if you have a driver then go for the vynal. When you form this to go around the fender you will need to cut out section on the flap so it will bend to the contur of the fender. The bead should sit on top of the fender. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com YOU'VE ALL CONVINCED ME!! LOL...window calk it is! Whatever comes out the top I'll cut off with a blade....I just HATE trying to make rubber pieces and hold them while things are jarred around and I know I could use some adhesive to stick, but then it might not work for lining things up etc...etc... Mine will be a daily flat back driver.....so it'll work out fine...as long as I can build myself a new gas tank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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