Brake light switch

[stevenelle]

Darn little brake light switch - have had to replace it once a year or more often for the last 4 or 5 years. That seems excessive. Is there a manufacturer or distributor that sells a higher quality part?

[MBF]

I got mine from NAPA about 10 yrs ago-haven't had a problem with it. Is your brake fluid clean or been changed recently? Mike

[Merle Coggins]

I got mine from Napa too. I've also gone through several of them. Some lasted several months, some lasted several weeks. They kept replacing them under warranty but it was a P.I.T.A. This last one seems to be OK so far, but I keep a spare in my glove box.

Merle

[1950 Special Deluxe]

Is your brake fluid clean or been changed recently?

I redid my brakes and changed the fluid, the brake light switch failed within 1 month, any idea why?

Thanks

[grey beard]

NAPA part number SL 133. Mine's been on four years, no problemo.

[oldmopar]

I have had my brake light switches last for years in my vehicles and a few I have sold to friends. However I had or box of nos ones that I had been using. When I did my B1d this year I finally had to install a new switch, used all the old ones I will be cautious to see if the new one fails. The other thing is I upgrade the brakes systems I do to dot 5 silicone and had read where some people felt that the silicone fluid cased the switches to fail but not in my experience.

Another option I have considered but not tried is the mechanical brake switch one example is in the link below

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Universal-Mechanical-Brake-Light-Switch,1972.html

[P-12 Tommy]

I have had my brake light switches last for years in my vehicles and a few I have sold to friends. However I had or box of nos ones that I had been using. When I did my B1d this year I finally had to install a new switch, used all the old ones I will be cautious to see if the new one fails. The other thing is I upgrade the brakes systems I do to dot 5 silicone and had read where some people felt that the silicone fluid cased the switches to fail but not in my experience.

Another option I have considered but not tried is the mechanical brake switch one example is in the link below

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Universal-Mechanical-Brake-Light-Switch,1972.html

That's what I did and it works great.... so far.

Tom

[NiftyFifty]

Glad I read this post, I don't even have a switch left in my system, but then again the past owner had rubber hose going over to the R/F brake with 6 hose clamps, so only makes sense he probably cut the switch and tee off too.

I imagine the tee to plumb it in is pretty easy to find, but does it really matter which line you run from? I've installed a 2 res. master from a 1990 Cherokee and by the way it's a very easy swap in as it measures the same length, but with the prop. valve can I just run it off the line heading to the rear or what?

I also would conside mechanical but that looks like a timely install with the link below

[oldmopar]

On the trucks the brake switch screwed into the mc but the cars had it inline and it should not matter where it is as I have seen it in the front and rear of cars but it always was on the left side. I do not think the mechanical switch is that hard to do but the thing I am very interested is you MC

The master cylinder you installed from a 1990 Cherokee if it can be fit in place of the original on the trucks then you have made a great discovery. Please expand on the MC installation

[Vazlov1949]

Do the switches go out or do they just not work until you have the pedal pushed ALL the way down? I had the same problem until I switched to a switch that operates on lower pressure, meaning it turns the brake lights on as soon as you touch the pedal, instead of when the pedal almost reaches the floor. I have been using mine for two years now.You can buy them from Ron Francis Wiring at:

www.ronfrancis.com

[NiftyFifty]

On the trucks the brake switch screwed into the mc but the cars had it inline and it should not matter where it is as I have seen it in the front and rear of cars but it always was on the left side. I do not think the mechanical switch is that hard to do but the thing I am very interested is you MC

The master cylinder you installed from a 1990 Cherokee if it can be fit in place of the original on the trucks then you have made a great discovery. Please expand on the MC installation

One thing to make sure is if you have moved to a newer brake set-up with a 2 res and a prop. valve then you should put the switch on one of the front brake lines as the rear has a bit of a delay vs. the front. I bought a ford switch today instead of the dodge one, see if there's any benefit, same exact switch just different terminals.

as for my brake master cyl. conversion all I had to do was make a small piece of 1/4" plate just so I could use the original 3 holes and then I drilled 2 holes for the new master, welded a couple of bolts on and then install the plate, then the master. The only other job is shortening the stock push rod to the right length. Honestly took me about 30-45 mins to make the plate and have it in...I should have taken pics along the way, I just forgot my camera....maybe try some later on...I'm taking it apart again for paint anyway.

[oldmopar]

One thing to make sure is if you have moved to a newer brake set-up with a 2 res and a prop. valve then you should put the switch on one of the front brake lines as the rear has a bit of a delay vs. the front. I bought a ford switch today instead of the dodge one, see if there's any benefit, same exact switch just different terminals.

as for my brake master cyl. conversion all I had to do was make a small piece of 1/4" plate just so I could use the original 3 holes and then I drilled 2 holes for the new master, welded a couple of bolts on and then install the plate, then the master. The only other job is shortening the stock push rod to the right length. Honestly took me about 30-45 mins to make the plate and have it in...I should have taken pics along the way, I just forgot my camera....maybe try some later on...I'm taking it apart again for paint anyway.

I have just finished my brakes but may install the dual master. I and otheres had been looking for a dual master for these trucks the problem seemed to be finding one that fit in the limited space between the firewall and the steering column but if the cherrokke fits it is a great option. If you could get of photo showing the mc in place that would be great

[NiftyFifty]

I have just finished my brakes but may install the dual master. I and otheres had been looking for a dual master for these trucks the problem seemed to be finding one that fit in the limited space between the firewall and the steering column but if the cherrokke fits it is a great option. If you could get of photo showing the mc in place that would be great

Will do, was running lines tonight and as I say...good room if you do it the way I did, however you do have to change one of the stock lines for the prop valve...I noticed tonight it won't quite fit, but just a minor change and your set. My only concern is I don't know where the rear line was supposed to run from stock...that seems to be a mystery other then it just hung down there like a booger on a 5yr old..

[oldmopar]

The rear line runs along the left side of the frame to a bracket where it connects to the rear brake hose

[NiftyFifty]

The rear line runs along the left side of the frame to a bracket where it connects to the rear brake hose

But when it comes off the master there is a solid cast piece there where it is mounted too and then you have the trans in the way, so it must loop between the trans and cast mount and then go over to the frame to the back?

Anyone have a picture?

[oldmopar]

Try this link it may take a minute to open

It is from the online parts manual at the DPETCA link on the top menu bar

http://dodgepilothouseclub.org/know/ph_parts/b_5.pdf