Lose the fluid drive?

[toledod24]

First post but I just got a 47 dodge d24 2 door sedan with the fluid drive. I love the flat 6 but I'm not really hot on the fluid drive, i'm worried about fixing it when it breaks or seals leak and stuff like that and just parts avaiablity. What are my options for getting rid of it? is it possible to get a new input shaft for the 3 speed and just get some sort of new bell housing and clutch? if i went that route are the linkages and crossmembers in the right spot as a stock 3 spd car? What about a t5 swap? can i keep the colum shift with a t5? i've done some searching on the different options but wanted a general opinions on the whole problem, maybe i'm just missing it and theres a place that sells all the parts i could need for the fluid drive. I'm not trying to make a stock resto just a reliable and fixable driver with some cool stock elements like the flat 6 and original column shifter cause depending on the options a 350 swap wouldn't be out of the book either, i just really like to keep the 6 and just trying to get ideas

[Plymouthy Adams]

lets see 1947 tranny, still working some 60 plus years...this speaks very highly of the the design..granted, like all things mechanical they will probably one day die..but I would not be to quick to throw the baby out with the bath..

while they may not be the quickest off the line..they are amoung the smoothest...

[toledod24]

I'm not opposed to keeping it if i can find some good parts sources, i've found oldmoparts and they seem to have some decent stuff for it, does anyone else know of better sources for parts on it.

[Frank Elder]

Welcome aboard, I suggest driving it for awhile, before making your decision. About the 350.....yuck!

[p24-1953]

there are places to still get parts. look on here and you will see. what parts have died? what parts are you worried about? i just had my hydrive modifed to have overdrive also... well worth it.

check with roberts for the seals, tennesse clutch for other parts. the transmission is pretty soild.

[Dave Bohn]

I think the suggestion of living with it for a while is a good idea. I have fluid drive and did not initially like it - I've come to find it is very flexible. Use it when you want or not. When I want to shift through 3 speeds its available. When my knee is acting up and/or when I'm in stop & go traffic I leave it in 2nd and drive like an automatic. The main problem was when my parking brake was poorly adjusted - I carried a wheel chock for parking lots on a slope.

[greg g]

What parts do you think you need??? Its a pretty simple and efficient system, as well as being nearly trouble free. If it ain't broke....

[PatS....]

Welcome.

There are three parts to "Fluid Drive"

There is the "Fluid Coupler" which replaces the flywheel in a "normal" driveline...it looks like a torque converter but does not multiply torque.

Bolted to that is a normal everyday clutch.

THEN there is the transmission, which could be either a regular 3 speed manual shift transmission OR in your case, an M5 hydraulic shift two speed, two range transmission.

The "Fluid Coupling is for the most part trouble-free even after 60+ years. Make sure it's full of fresh fluid and that's about it.

The clutch is a regular clutch. They wear out but are still readily available.

Then there is the M5. Same deal. Relatively trouble free. You need to have the correct wiring to the correct carburetor with the dashpot and kickdown switch. There is a governor, solenoid and interuptor switch on the transmission that need to be clean at the connections. Replacements are available.

Usually they had little or no maintenance so if you do that maintenance they will basically run forever.

They are slooww off the line, but very easy to drive.

If you are so inclined, do the maintenance and see how you like it.

Adapters are available for later manual and automatic transmissions if you don't like it.

Good luck with it.

[55 Fargo]

I have a 1947 Chrsler Royal Coupe, it has a dry clutch 3 speed trans and 3.73 rear end.

The fluid drive was removed, and was replaced with what I mentioned, in 1 way I wish that had not been done, but on the other hand, I like driving the car as it is now, lots of gett up and go compared with a fluid drive set-up, regardless of the trans.

In order to convert yours to regular clutch and 3 speed trans you need the bell housng, trans or shorter input shaft. The rear engine mounts need to be moved forward, the clutch throw out rod needs to be shorteed, and not a whole lot more to it.

The driveshaft you have may work, but not 100% sure.

As has been mentioned, the fluid drive is a very tough piece of equipment, and most likely you have the 3 spd trans, so you are not worrying about the electrcial and mecahnical itmes on an M5 or M6 semi-auto trans............Fred

[Merle Coggins]

Why does everyone say that the Fluid Drive's are sluggish? I have one in my truck and if I drive it like a normal truck, shifting through the gears, it is no different that a truckwithout FD, except that it's nearly impossible to stall the engine by letting the clutch out too fast. But around town I can leave it in 3rd (4 speed) and drive it with just brake and gas. Then yes, it is a bit sluggish off the line.

So if you have a 3 speed behind the FD I don't see why it would be sluggish. If you have the semi-auto trans then it probably would be a bit sluggish if taking off in high range, but can't you take off in low range and then shift up into high range when up to speed?

Merle

[Young Ed]

Merle nearly impossible you say? Have you tested this theory? When I was 14-15 my buddy John and I were playing in Dads 40 plymouth pickup. 4spd equiped with a 4.11 rear behind it. I told him to let off the clutch and before I could finish my sentence and say slowly he sidestepped it and the truck kinda chugged once and then started going.

[toledod24]

Wow, great replies and info! My car has the manual 3 speed behind the FD, Its good to know the clutch and such aren't odd balls. I'll take if from those with experience with the FD and keep it there, seems like maintance on it is still easier then the options. Finding parts is probably always easier then reinventing the wheel

[Merle Coggins]

Just be sure that you have a properly functioning parking brake, and USE IT everytime you park the car. With FD there is no mechanical connection between the trans and engine, so the engine will not hold the car from rolling if parked in gear.

Merle

[toledod24]

I found the parking brake was the first order of buisness, i bought the car from a friend and he'd already redid the brakes and relined the parking brake but it needed adjustment he'd told me, that was priority number one i found while i'm sitting in the seat with my foot on the brake pondering how i'm going to keep doing that while pulling out the wood block from the tire, the driveways not a hill but it does have enough slant to make it roll. 30 minutes later we had a working parking brake and the blocks can stay in the wood pile now.

[PatS....]

I found the parking brake was the first order of buisness, i bought the car from a friend and he'd already redid the brakes and relined the parking brake but it needed adjustment he'd told me, that was priority number one i found while i'm sitting in the seat with my foot on the brake pondering how i'm going to keep doing that while pulling out the wood block from the tire, the driveways not a hill but it does have enough slant to make it roll. 30 minutes later we had a working parking brake and the blocks can stay in the wood pile now.

From my experience, I used to use the boulder all the time after the parking brake failed and the car was in the neighbors hedge.